I really appreciate your input on the full service. I have been doing research for the past month, and this is what I have bought:
It has a little over 130k miles on it.
Mobil1 full synthetic 5W-20 high mileage
Mobil1 Oil filter (M1-204)
Super-tech ATF-4 (it was listed under the approved ATF-4 list from chrysler)
Mopar sump filter
Mopar external trans filter (the one that looks like an engine oil filter)
Mopar NV245/247/249 fluid
Mobil1 75W-140 synthetic
Mopar friction additive (didnt know if i needed, figured it wouldnt hurt to add anyway)
Mopar PS fluid to MS-10838 spec (this was expensive, but i couldn't find anyone else that makes a fluid that is definitely up to this spec)
I have some High temp permatex sealant laying around that i was going to use to reseal the trans pan and the diff covers.
Question now that you brought up the diff covers, I understand that the trans has a magnet in the pan that should get cleaned, i was under the impression the diffs have a magnet that should get cleaned as well (130k miles)?
Also are there any plug seals/orings that I will have to replace for the trans, trans case, and diffs?
Thank you, this will be the first time i have worked on a jeep, so any input is helpful. Also if you know any difficult or PITA parts to the service i should be aware of.
All the fluids you've selected sound fine, I personally would have choosen a few different but if I had already purchased them, I would NOT bother taking them back.
Mobil1 Synthetic 5W-20,
IMO no need for the High Mileage Oil, unless you engine is showing the wear that would require it. My daughter drives around my '95 Cherokee that still has a tappet lifter cam in it, these need the high impact Zinc additive in the oil that the latest "SM" and "SN" API certs have eliminated because all new motors have roller lifters and cams that do NOT require the additive, and the Zinc Additive tend to shorten the life of the Catalytic Converters and O2 sensors. The High Mileage Oil has the "SL" API cert and thus has the Zinc in the additives package.
Mobil1 oil filters are overkill IMO, NOT worth the extra money when the Hastings and Wix filters are way more than good enough, in a pinch Purolator filters are more than fine, never use the Orange FRAM Filters, they are junk.
SuperTech, although I'd shy away from Generics for Oil, I have seen article saying people have looked into it and it is just fine oil and yes, to put ATF+4 as the label on the bottle means it passed the certification of the Chrysler Spec for ATF+4.
Personally I use AMSOIL for all my lube except engine oil because I can't afford AMSOIL for engine oil since I am NOT going to extend the change period, I use Mobil 1 sythetic for the engine oil.
ASMOIL's Signature ATF claims it exceeds the specs for ATF+4, but can NOT label it as ATF+4 because it does NOT the exact viscosity. After doing some research, it seems the real specs for increasing versions of ATF+ and all the ATF's from all the manufacturers have been increased durability of the fluid, it is NOT some magical perfect formulation of friction properties and viscosities, heck most ATF viscosity had degraded to half of what it was during it use, the electronic control of the shifts will adjust for this anyway. Well, the friction properties have to be within reason. Its really the newer electronic trans run so hot and so demanding on the fluid, the fluid has to be higher quality and more durable to stand up to the demands. So, you'll see a lot of people use AMSOIL Signature Multi-Vehicle ATF in replace of ATF+4 and never report a problem, I'm using it in my Commanders NAG1 trans and never had a problem for the last 90k miles.
Definitely use the MS-10838 for you PS fluid, I am NOT aware of any aftermarket equivalent, so yea, you can only get if from the dealer. You have the Hemi, meaning you have the hydraulic driven fan which I imagine is the reason why this fluid is required now. I "suspect" but don't know for sure, the folks complaining of failing PS racks and pumps, or multiple failures of them, either themselves or the mechanic doing the repair use something less than the specified MS-10838 spec fluid in the PS system.
One last note, get a new tube of RTV for pan gaskets, there is a new Gear Oil RTV designed just for Diff Covers that has the max resistance to gear oil, that is what I used on the rear diff cover. Its cheap insurance against a leak that can destroy a very expensive differential. That old tube of RTV laying around may have separated or degraded.
The front diff and the xfr case use drain fill plugs, I use Permatex Hi-Temp thread sealant on the threads, works much better than other thread sealants and teflon tape for oil.