Drivers side front cv half shaft/axle - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Drivers side front cv half shaft/axle

I am the poor soul that could not get the drivers side half shaft out of the differential. I ended up destroying it at the boot. Leaving me with half a half shaft. Which I didn't care because I was replacing it anyway. I then found a used differential online and decided to go that route. I easily removed the passenger side half shaft, drive shaft and then dropped it out with the dang half of a half shaft still stuck in the differential. I then put the replacement differential in, connected the passenger side half shaft and the drive shaft and (drum roll) now I am at the point of all this. Changing the drivers side front half shaft. My question is, do you have to lower the LCA in order to fit the new half shaft? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am at my wits end.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 10:04 PM
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I'm confused - you got the pass side installed but can't get the drvs side half-shaft to go in? Either way, to easily remove/install them you've got to do the following (from service manual - and I've done this twice on 2 different 06 xk's). by the time you got it all removed it's simply a matter of stepping down on the lca to move it outta the way.

2 Remove half shaft hub/bearing nut.
3. Remove wheel speed sensor nut from hub/
bearing (3) and remove sensor.
4. Remove brake calipers bolts and remove calipers from caliper adapters .
5. Remove lower stabilizer link bolt from control arm.
6. Remove outer tie rod end nuts and separate tie
rods from knuckles .
7. Remove upper ball joint nuts and separate ball
joints from knuckles
8. Remove shock clevis bolt and nut from
lower control arm
9. Lean the knuckle out and push half shaft out of the
hub/bearing.
10. Pry half shafts from axle/axle tube with pry

hope this answers your actual question...

BP
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Half Shaft

Thank you for your advice. I am having trouble with:
8. Remove shock clevis bolt and nut from
lower control arm
It seems to be welded into the bushing.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 10:25 AM
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The shock clevis bolt and nut corrode and seize together. Its very common to have difficulty removing the bolt to get the clevis separated from the LCA.


There is no way to get the driveshaft into place without separating them, unless you want to completely disassemble one of the CV joints at the end and re-assemble it after putting just the shaft through the clevis. If you don't have the special tools for the boots, and contaminate the special grease inside the CV joint, or get dirt inside the internals while you have it all apart, you'll end up worse off with a compromised CV half-shaft that might NOT last.


Some things that work to get that Clevis Bolt out. Soak it with penetrating oil, give it time to soak in, let it soak overnight. Once you get the nut off, soak it again with penetrating oil. Use a sledge to drive out the bolt, if it only moves a fraction of an inch, then use a wrench to turn the nut back and forth, breaking it free from the corrosion seizing it to the collar in the bushing. Pound on it again with a sledge, and keep repeating the soaking in penetrating oil, turning back and forth with a wrench, pound with a sledge, till you get it all the way out.


Some people (that live in salt states where underside corrosion is really bad) have had to cut the bolt off, then remove the LCA to have the bushing pressed out and a new one pressed in, and get a new bolt and nut.


Before you risk damaging or cutting the shock clevis, check with your Dealer to see if they can get a replacement part. A few months ago, someone posted that they had a Dealership replace their shocks, the Dealership damaged the Shock Clevis and then found out the Shock Clevis was on 6 month back order and its a Dealer only part. The Dealership told him his Commander would just have to sit and NOT be driven for 6 months.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-27-2016, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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LCA Bolt Stuck

Holy moly. Finally got it. I soaked the LCA bolt with PB Blaster over a long period of time. Beat the heck out of the nut end of the bolt. I finally got about a half inch out from fork. Trying to turn the head resulted in turning the whole bushing with it. Heated up the head of the bolt and the nut end of the bolt with a torch. More PB. Beat the head of the bolt back in flush. Beat the nut end of the bolt back out as far as it would go. More PB. Back and forth until I got the nut end of the bolt flush with the fork and then used a punch to punch it through the rest of the way. The bolt is flanged about an inch and a half from the head and then threaded. I did mushroom the nut end and had to grind it down, but I reused the bolt after cleanup.
I hate to ramble on about a stuck bolt but I thought I would never get it or would have to do something pretty drastic to get it out. This painful description may help someone else with theirs or at least give them a little hope.
The reason I needed it out was to install a new drivers side CV Half Shaft. But after Humpty Dumpty was all back together again and I went for the test drive, it did the same thing. Misdiagnosis. Original problem was that it would sound like it was skipping teeth on a gear under torque. For instance, accelerating from a stop sign normally, on a slight hill at a stop light, etc. If I pull out like a granny and get up to second gear, I'm good to go or at least to the next stop light or whatever. Basically under any kind of torque it gives the terrible 'skipping teeth on a gear' sound and feel.
What's next? Front Drive Shaft? Transfer Case? I'm at a loss. At least it is finally all back together and drivable(kind of). Anyone have any ideas? Please let me know. Also, I'd like to thank all of the people who gave me a hand up to this point. It was quite helpful. Thank you.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-18-2016, 07:14 PM
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When changing the springs on mine, I made a small attempt at the LCA bolt and ended up just removing the strut mounts and left the LCA bolts in place, and I dread the day I decide I need new struts. Both drive shafts fell out on me while changing the springs, at any rate probably easier to pull the upper strut mount than the LCA if that gets you where you need to be.
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