Broken exhaust manifold studs - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2016, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Broken exhaust manifold studs

Has anyone replaced the manifold studs on the right passenger side. I replaced them on the left driver side a little over a year now. I found a write up on jeepsunlimited.com with step by step instructions and tools needed. Job was successful. Can anyone help me on this issue..
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 07:49 AM
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PB Blast everything as much as possible!

I have done the passenger side about a month ago and the driver side last weekend. I can assure you that the passenger side was alot easier for me at least. Even with 2 back bolts, thats right 2 bolts broken flush on the passenger side, I still found it easier.! I had 1 broken flush on the driver side at the front of the block. The driver side has a lot less space and could not access the bolts anywhere else except from the wheel well. The driver side also has all the power steering, front diff, fuse blocks, battery tray, etc in the way. I used a right angle drill and small extractor bits to remove them. The wheel liner removal is a must, so go buy our plastic rivet gun/rivets now.

PB Blast everything again!
Passenger side removal from memory - remove wheel/tire, fender well liner, a few lines or hoses removed from clips, remove airbox hosing/hose, move coolant reservoir out of way. First disconnect the manifold from the exhaust down pipe (forgot the size for the 2 bolts), you will need a few long extensions together for this. Then its just a matter of unbolting the heatshield/manifold from the block. I think the sizes needed were:shallow/deep sockets, and wrenches 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, swivels, various size extensions.

If you have any broken flush and PB Blast again, then....let the skills that can only be obtained from a "Higher Power" take over!

I have the 5.7 so room is a little tighter. What engine do you have?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-23-2016, 01:26 PM
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When I did mine, I did not buy new bolts from the dealer. I got the thread size and went to my local bolt store (not ACE hardware). I was lucky to have an ARB authorized dealer at Copperstate in Phoenix at the time. I purchased better studs for use so I did not have to do that again.

There is a lot of pressure on those back bolts and they are notorious for breaking.

I have heard Mopar improved the bolts, so dealer purchased may be ok now since then.


Dave

'06 Hemi Limited 4X4, 6(ish)" lift, 35" General Red Letter, 2" spacers, Mopar CAI, RER and mygig lockpick, blue Interior LEDs, stub antenna 3", Callahan Red Brake set, 6.1L SRT8 exaust headers, full custom 3" exhaust from headers back, Fastman 847 ported TB, BBK Fuel Rails, 6.1L injectors, JBA UCAs, Nitro gear 4:10, SA hidden front winch mount.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-27-2016, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk153smaw View Post
When I did mine, I did not buy new bolts from the dealer. I got the thread size and went to my local bolt store (not ACE hardware). I was lucky to have an ARB authorized dealer at Copperstate in Phoenix at the time. I purchased better studs for use so I did not have to do that again.

There is a lot of pressure on those back bolts and they are notorious for breaking.

I have heard Mopar improved the bolts, so dealer purchased may be ok now since then.


Dave
Did you mean ARP? ARP | The Official Web Site

Mind sharing the parts # that you used... Thanks
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 11:17 AM
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link to the article?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hicksmo View Post
Has anyone replaced the manifold studs on the right passenger side. I replaced them on the left driver side a little over a year now. I found a write up on jeepsunlimited.com with step by step instructions and tools needed. Job was successful. Can anyone help me on this issue..
Can you give the link to that write up?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 03:27 PM
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What fasteners did you use for fender liner? I am thinking of switching from the rivets to the push pin style. Oh, can the rivets be put on with a standard pop rivet gun?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 03:10 PM
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Pretty sure it requires a special one but as I recall, they are cheap. I used stainless fasteners from a bolt house here in the city. They were cheap, stronger that anything from the dealer and they don't rust.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 10:07 AM
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Stainless is prob' cheaper too

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex View Post
Pretty sure it requires a special one but as I recall, they are cheap. I used stainless fasteners from a bolt house here in the city. They were cheap, stronger that anything from the dealer and they don't rust.
Harbor Freight on the pulling tool.

Price for five plastic pop rivets was $5 for a sealed baggy, which seems to run up the price. At the same time, there was an "oops" bag of twenty rivets in white for 5 dollars. They must have been a spec. order nobody came back for. Since my Commander is white, it was an easy choice.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk153smaw View Post
When I did mine, I did not buy new bolts from the dealer. I got the thread size and went to my local bolt store (not ACE hardware). I was lucky to have an ARB authorized dealer at Copperstate in Phoenix at the time. I purchased better studs for use so I did not have to do that again.

There is a lot of pressure on those back bolts and they are notorious for breaking.

I have heard Mopar improved the bolts, so dealer purchased may be ok now since then.


Dave
The back port also has 2 openings. Any idea what that small one is for?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-03-2018, 01:35 AM
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Back port? What are you referring to? The front right port has the crossover for the EGR.
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