in the old days the oil pump was driven off the distributor and all you did was pull the dist. and the gear below and turn the oil pump drive by hand or with a drill, I'm not sure about now.
For an engine on the stand, that's the way to go for sure.
Does this engine even have a cover where the dizzy would have been? Or has this one always been distributorless?
Related question, what's the best way to get oil in the system after an oil change before actually starting it. On our 4.7L Commander, I usually shut down for the oil change by pulling the fuel pump relay and letting it starve out. After changing the oil and filter, I'll crank on it with no fuel pressure until I see the oil pressure gauge move up. Then I'll give it a break while I re-install the fuel pump relay. That seems to work, but I'm wondering if there's a better option.
On other engines, it's easier to disconnect the low voltage connector at the coil (GM small block Vortec engines including the 4.3L V6, and Dodge Magnum engines from the mid to late 1990's), or disconnect the crank position sensor (Mercedes Benz from the 1980's and 1990's), or unplug the hall effect sensor wires at the distributor (older VW's from 1980's and 1990's).
I never fire an engine after an oil change unless there's oil pressure first. If the design allows, I install oil filters full of oil, but that's not an option with the Jeep.