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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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coolant woes

a week or two ago, after a very very cold night (11 degrees (i live in ga, we dont get temps like this)) I noticed a small amount of fluid under my vehicle. traced it back to the heater core T fitting. watched it for a few days and didnt see anything else so I thought it was a fluke. Well.... I was wrong. Driving home two nights ago stop at a red light and steam freaking city. i was only a mile or two from house luckily so I watched the temp gauge and just headed home. lost all heat in the vehicle temp guage jumped up but never got in the red, so hopefully I didnt fry anything.

The new parts were going to run me about 50 bucks plus anther 60 in coolant. So I figured The hoses are fine lets see if I can get a generic 3/4inch T fitting in there instead and save myself some cash. SUCCESS! maybe... went to go refill the coolant I lost, and of course the bleed port plug is rusted in place and stripped the moment I touched it. I am sure with some time and energy I could get it out but I still would have to find a replacement and with the dealership being closed I dont want to wait.

So who has had luck refilling the cooling system on a hemi through the radiator? Were you able to get all the air out of the system just by "burping" it and cycling through warming up and cooling and topping off? Does anyone happen to know the size of the bleed plug? I am guessing because I have rear heat I should turn that on full blast as well as I trying to fill the system or does it circulate through there regardless of whether its on or not?

any advice I will take as I really need to get this thing running. I dont have time to only have one working vehicle in the house.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 04:59 PM
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I have had some success with difficult to bleed cooling systems by parking the vehicle on an angle with the radiator at its highest point. Some maintenance ramps may work or park with the from wheels on a curb. This will allow the air in the system to migrate to the high point on the vehicle. May be worth a try.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-28-2018, 02:27 AM
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The exact same thing happened to me except that the prevoious owner chopped the small 3/4" hose then didn't tighten the clamp. I lost about 2 litres of coolant but I managed to loosen the clamp enough with a key to press the fitting back in and tightened it back up.

After replacing the hose with a new one, I topped up the rad and parked it up my neighbors back lawn which is straight up about 3 feet and kept it at 1500 rpm for about 5 minutes. This lets all the air bleed out to the rad. Once it cools down all you have to do is top up the rad.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-30-2018, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yes so far all seems well, jacked the front up cycled the engine and topped of about 4 or 5 times. So far the temp gauge has stayed 2 ticks below the middle which I think is where it always was.

It was a pain in the ass to get the OEM T fitting off, probably because its not made to come off... Thanks jeep engineers, you are awesome. I thought about just ponying up the $50-60 for the new hose until i realized how much of a bigger pain it would be to get the old hoses off. I actually pulled the rear supply line pretty easily but the one attached to the heater core wouldnt budge. The one that attaches to the back of the engine i dont even see how I could have gotten to the clamp. Hopefully this generic T fitting holds up though cause a $6 dollar fix is way better than a $60 one.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 12:36 AM
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Interesting. I got the hose that goes to the heater core off in 30 seconds. I pulled the plastic t off in about the same amount of time. Didn't think it was anything special. Looked like a generic 3/4 " t fitting. Certainly nothing worth $60. I would think a brass 3/4" t would be a better choice.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex View Post
Interesting. I got the hose that goes to the heater core off in 30 seconds. I pulled the plastic t off in about the same amount of time. Didn't think it was anything special. Looked like a generic 3/4 " t fitting. Certainly nothing worth $60. I would think a brass 3/4" t would be a better choice.
did yours have regular hose claps or some weird plastic pressed lock collars?
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 01:12 AM
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Just hose clamps. The previous owner had done some butchery on it.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 10:27 PM
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I've searched the forum but can't seem to find the answer. Does anyone know what size hex the bleed screw is on the 4.7L? I also replaced both hoses to the heater core, and I'm paranoid I've reversed them. On the pump there's an upper and lower connection. Could someone confirm which one goes to the heater core drivers side and which one goes to the passenger side? Thank you!

Edit: The hex is 8mm.
The upper connection goes to the driver's side
The lower connection goes to the passenger side

So far I'm leak free and appear to have all the air out of the system. It wasn't a horrible job, but like others mentioned, getting the hose clamps in the tight spaces was tricky. Also, the rivets holding the wheel well to the fender are not reusable so you'll want to pick up some replacements.

Last edited by tankman67; 10-18-2018 at 10:37 AM. Reason: Added Info
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 10:58 PM
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From those of you that have tackled this job, where did you find the replacement fitting? Just some generic 3/4” fitting? What material and where did you get it?

Both T fittings on mine are leaking. Replacing the entire hose assemblies does seem doable, but looks like a PITA! Replacing just the T seems much easier, but not if it fails again in another year!
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTF View Post
From those of you that have tackled this job, where did you find the replacement fitting? Just some generic 3/4” fitting? What material and where did you get it?

Both T fittings on mine are leaking. Replacing the entire hose assemblies does seem doable, but looks like a PITA! Replacing just the T seems much easier, but not if it fails again in another year!
Just happened to get on and see this, hope it's not too late. Here is a pic of what I bought. Think I got it from AutoZone, although it may have been advanced Auto.
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