How to pull a seized Hemi? - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Upper Cumberland, Tennessee
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How to pull a seized Hemi?

I picked up a 2006 Hemi Commander QDII with a "bad" engine. I'm in the process of trying to pull the engine, have everything off the top and front except the main pulley. Starter removed and 1 bolt out of the torque converter. I can't rotate the engine to get to the rest of the converter bolts.

There was coolant in the combustion chambers and oil I'm assuming for a few months. I've sprayed PB Blaster and Seafoam Deep Creep into the cylinders but it still won't budge. I then poured Marvel Mystery Oil in each of the cylinders. I did notice the penetrant oil is draining through the engine and out the oil drain plug.

I'm out of town for the week but am open to any ideas to try when I'm home this weekend.

Thanks.


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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 11:12 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Springfield, OR
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Bought a motorcycle once that had seized pistons. Ended up using the 2" dowel and a 5lb dead blow hammer. Knocked hard on each piston in succession a few times. That was only a 750cc four cylinder though.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Up4XK View Post
Bought a motorcycle once that had seized pistons. Ended up using the 2" dowel and a 5lb dead blow hammer. Knocked hard on each piston in succession a few times. That was only a 750cc four cylinder though.
Not a bad idea...I doubt you'd get the crank to turn by banging on 1 piston at a time, but at least knocking each one really good might free them up enough to the turn the crank.

SevenJays - I'm assuming you're trying to turn the crank via the main front pulley? Get a bigger break-over bar? Have you pulled the heads? getting the extra force of the valve train off the cam, and through that to the crank might help. It'd also give you better access to the pistons for beating on them. At the very least maybe pull the valve covers and take off the rocker arms, this will take the pressure off the pushrods and lifters.

2006 Dark Khaki Limited, Hemi, QD-II w/ all the options.
Inertia Performance Heads, Full SRT 6.1 Valve Train, Custom Crower Cam, Double Roller Timing Set, Trend Performance forged Pushrods, High PSI Oil Pump, ARH Long Tube Headers and Mids, Borla Catback, aFe Stage 2 Intake, AEM X-Series WB UEGO & 100psi Oil Guages, PowerStop Drilled & Slotted Rotors, MDS On Light, Kenwood in-dash Nav, HID Projectors and full LED lighting upgrade

Need to get it on a dyno....
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Upper Cumberland, Tennessee
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Model year: 2006
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Power-Train: 5.7L V-8 Hemi
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Current Mileage: 125,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Up4XK View Post
Bought a motorcycle once that had seized pistons. Ended up using the 2" dowel and a 5lb dead blow hammer. Knocked hard on each piston in succession a few times. That was only a 750cc four cylinder though.


I値l have to try that.


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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Upper Cumberland, Tennessee
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Model year: 2006
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Current Mileage: 125,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wombler View Post
Not a bad idea...I doubt you'd get the crank to turn by banging on 1 piston at a time, but at least knocking each one really good might free them up enough to the turn the crank.



SevenJays - I'm assuming you're trying to turn the crank via the main front pulley? Get a bigger break-over bar? Have you pulled the heads? getting the extra force of the valve train off the cam, and through that to the crank might help. It'd also give you better access to the pistons for beating on them. At the very least maybe pull the valve covers and take off the rocker arms, this will take the pressure off the pushrods and lifters.


Yes, I知 thinking I may have to pull the heads or maybe the oil pan and rod caps.

I知 also wondering how much damage I値l do pulling the engine with the torque converter and working on the engine stand. This is my first engine change with an automatic transmission.


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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 08:52 AM
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Pulling the heads will allow one to look at the cylinder walls for major corrosion damage. Lots of crud/rust could be a problem. If you have this issue, some pistons might not be able to go upwards.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenjays View Post
Yes, I知 thinking I may have to pull the heads or maybe the oil pan and rod caps.

I知 also wondering how much damage I値l do pulling the engine with the torque converter and working on the engine stand. This is my first engine change with an automatic transmission.


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You would be wise to contact a good transmission shop about this. One of the best in my area always gives me phone help.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Upper Cumberland, Tennessee
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Model year: 2006
Trim Package: Limited
Power-Train: 5.7L V-8 Hemi
4WD
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Current Mileage: 125,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnc View Post
You would be wise to contact a good transmission shop about this. One of the best in my area always gives me phone help.


Good point. I'll do that. Thanks.


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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Upper Cumberland, Tennessee
Own a Commander?: Yes
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Power-Train: 5.7L V-8 Hemi
4WD
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Current Mileage: 125,000
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I talked to ProEngines who I'm getting the engine from and they said I shouldn't have a problem pulling it with the torque converter. Then just replace the seal on torque converter and reinstall it on the transmission.

I'll update on how it goes.


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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Upper Cumberland, Tennessee
Own a Commander?: Yes
Model year: 2006
Trim Package: Limited
Power-Train: 5.7L V-8 Hemi
4WD
If 4WD - system: QD-II
Current Mileage: 125,000
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Garage
Got the engine out with the torque converter attached. Contrary to many opinions, I didn't lose any fluid out of the converter. I'm not sure what to think about that. But at any rate the engine is out and the torque converter removed. I'm going to pick up a new seal and reinstall the torque converter on the transmission.

Then press on with the engine change.





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