Mechanic is Baffled - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Mechanic is Baffled

In my initial post to this forum back in July, I mentioned that I had overheating problems and that I was taking steps to fix them the best that I could. The steps I took included:


New Radiator
Flush Coolant System
New Thermostat
Change Oil
Replace Belt Tensioner


Even after these repairs I knew that I might fall prey to the ill-fated head gasket issue that is talked about on Commanders. As my repairs did not fix the overheating issue and now I was getting a low oil pressure light and smoke coming from the engine, I decided to pass it on to a professional.


At an estimated cost of $2,000, they completed the following:


Head gasket replacement
Machine Heads
New Oil Pump


Then added on an additional $400 for new cylinder head on Driver's side after failing to achieve desired result.


They rebuilt the engine twice. They put everything back together and fired it up today. There is now compression on all cylinders. There is oil pressure. But there is a knocking noise.


The mechanic is done. He is giving back the vehicle and giving up. He doesn't know what else could be wrong and suggested I look for a Dodge or Jeep pro that could tackle this.


They believe that there is a lower engine knock. I don't have enough knowledge to diagnose this. They also suggested that the timing chain tensioner might be faulty. I don't know how they wouldn't have seen that when they put it back together.


I don't want this to run much longer, but maybe someone on this forum has heard about these same issues and could give some advice before I shell out any money for repairs.


Is the engine toast? Is the engine knock due to an oil pressure issue? Could the engine bearings be going bad, and if so, why do I have good compression at the top? Could something have fallen into the engine that is knocking around?


I know it's hard to diagnose from afar, but I am frustrated, they are frustrated, and I just need to get my Commander running.


Thanks
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 08:34 PM
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If you ran it with low oil pressure you may have spun a lower rod bearing and that is where the knock is coming from. I have been nickle and diming a 4.7 in a WJ for years. It never ends. That is why the Commander has a 5.7
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-27-2019, 09:15 PM
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It is unfortunate you have found yourself in this predicament. From the information you provided, you may have an issue in the lower end of the engine as was indicated by the above poster. If I were you I would take possession of your vehicle from the mechanic and find someone who can properly diagnose your lower end issue. The low oil light indicates oil starvation due to a worn oil pump and this is where the damage occurred to the lower end. The overheating issue is unrelated, so you have multiple issues going on.

As I see it you have a couple of options. If you own the car outright, you may consider trading it in and getting out of it completely. If this is not a viable option for you then I suggest you find a knowledgeable mechanic who can properly diagnose the engine noise. The older more experienced mechanics can do this. There are some who can tell a rod knock from a main bearing knock. That is who you need to find.

But lets say for discussion sake they determine you have either a rod or a main bearing issue that is causing the knock. At this juncture, I would be looking for a remanufactured short block and have it replaced outright. Of course if you're handy and want to take it on yourself, that would be my vote, but from your conversation, it looks like you would rather leave this type of effort to others (and theres nothing wrong with that).

So, to recap - find an experienced mechanic to properly diagnose your noise. Cost should be minimal to do this. If the noise is in the lower end of the engine (which I suspect given the information provided), you either offload the vehicle entirely and get into something else or bite the bullet and get a remanufactured short block. If you're going down this rabbit hole, you may as well price in a complete remanufactured engine just so you know where your financial limits are. Personally, I would stay away from any used engine replacements. It is a headache you do not want.

I feel for your situation and understand your frustration and wish you all the best!
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-29-2019, 08:21 PM
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Looks like you have changed quite a bit, did you look at the water pump? I was just fighting an overheating issue in another thread. Water pump is cheap and on the v6 its super easy to change, not sure about the v8. Its has rather cheap looking plastic impeller. If there is enough room on the v8 to get it out with out too much hassle it would be worth taking a look, or just pop in a new one while you're in there.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synapse46 View Post
Looks like you have changed quite a bit, did you look at the water pump? I was just fighting an overheating issue in another thread. Water pump is cheap and on the v6 its super easy to change, not sure about the v8. Its has rather cheap looking plastic impeller. If there is enough room on the v8 to get it out with out too much hassle it would be worth taking a look, or just pop in a new one while you're in there.



The water pump was one of those things that the mechanic was supposed to look at, but I never got confirmation on whether it was done. Once I got the car back, I tried to start it up. It ran for a minute, and then backfired out of the air intake, popping the filter up in the process.


The tow truck driver who brought it home for me said that this means the timing is off. The mechanic thought that the timing tension might be off too, so now I'm really hoping that all of this rough idling and knocking is being caused by a timing issue.


It would be a shame to have to scrap this engine. I have 2 new cylinder heads, new valve covers, new head gasket, new oil pump, new belt tensioner, and then all the various gaskets, etc.


Going to try to make a new friend over at the Jeep dealer and see if maybe they want to educate me for beers...or cash. I just want this fixed now!!
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-01-2019, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truehemingway View Post
The water pump was one of those things that the mechanic was supposed to look at, but I never got confirmation on whether it was done. Once I got the car back, I tried to start it up. It ran for a minute, and then backfired out of the air intake, popping the filter up in the process.

The tow truck driver who brought it home for me said that this means the timing is off. The mechanic thought that the timing tension might be off too, so now I'm really hoping that all of this rough idling and knocking is being caused by a timing issue.

It would be a shame to have to scrap this engine. I have 2 new cylinder heads, new valve covers, new head gasket, new oil pump, new belt tensioner, and then all the various gaskets, etc.

Going to try to make a new friend over at the Jeep dealer and see if maybe they want to educate me for beers...or cash. I just want this fixed now!!
@truehemingway;

Let us know what you find out, I'd be interested to know.

I never heard you mention anything about getting any DTC's in the EVIC - are you receiving any, or, have you had your DTC's pulled yet by your previous mechanic? I'd have thought that would have been the first thing he would/should have done.


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Last edited by Big Blue; 10-01-2019 at 09:09 PM.
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