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Ome md vs ome hd

10K views 17 replies 11 participants last post by  luckyse7ens 
#1 ·
So after buying my commander with 109k miles my dream was to install a Superlift, but by the time I have the cash for that i assumed it would be time to trade in my commander anyway (due to very high milage) and so I wanted to learn more about OME lifts. I have read that when people install the HD lift, the ride gets much harsher, and I wanted to see what other people have to say about their experieces with the HD lift. My jeep has steel bumpers coming and so I was wondering with that extra weight, will I need the HD lift. I know this is a lot to ask but any help is appreciated. Thanks, Coophadley
 
#2 ·
With the weight of the steel bumpers you will want the HD spings. Do it right the first time lol
 
#3 ·
What about towing? Would the HD be better than the MD? I'm asking because the load leveling Monroe's I fitted on Large Marge didn't fare well after towing my new trailer. One of the sealas failed on one and the hydraulic fluid spilled. Would the ride be that much harsher with the HD or would the MD be the better choice since I tow infrequently? Cheers. Jorge
 
#4 ·
HD for the Commander, MD for the WK
 
#7 ·
thanks a lot guys!
 
#13 ·
Can someone that installed the MD springs comment on their ride compared to the stock springs?

After years of owning short wheelbase jeeps and beating my organs to death, I'm NOT looking for a firm ride.

I'm sure for those that like a sportier ride the HD springs are great but I really would prefer my ride to retain the stock feel, just a hair taller.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Well, since you don't have the hemi or CRD, and assuming you have no armor or winch the MD would probably work perfectly for your needs.

I don't have any experience with an OME spring setup but:

I am running stock springs with bilsteins @ 1.5" and some additional spring isolators stacked in the rear. I gained nearly an inch in the rear unloaded (and 1.5" up front) and my suspension is plenty responsive. I see no need for OME springs in my application. This may be a (less expensive) option for you as well.

I also added MOOG poly sway bar bushings up front on my factory "SRT-8" sway bar, which seems to come on most of the commanders. Honestly handles far better than I expect an SUV like this to handle, especially with a lift.


The bilsteins @ this setting is certainly a bit less of a "cushy" ride, so if you'd like to maintain that and still lift you might be better off looking @ Rough Country 2.25" and some less aggressively valved shocks. My wife noticed that the Jeep ride changed, so where I consider it more controlled and responsive, she would say that it is more "rough." My Jeep setup is a certainly still a MUCH more comfortable ride with P255/70r18's (32's) than my 99 F150 4x4 with cranked torsion bars and LT 33" tires.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the responses to both of these things.

I thought about the 5100s but I think I need to replace the front springs anyway. My front looks like it has sagged quite a bit. I'm not sure how much the front sag is due to spring sag or crushed isolators (or just factory rake) so I was planning on changing out everything when I do it.

For the same reasons I was going to skip the spacer style lifts - I don't want rake.

I guess I need to track down some factory springs and make a few shopping baskets to see where I come out price-wise.

The other thing that concerned me about the 5100s was the failure of the clip I read about the guy having warranty issues with. Seems isolated but still. Full springs and new struts of the OME kit sounds like ti would level everything out which is what I want.
 
#16 · (Edited)
The 5100's warranty issue was one that I was concerned with as well. I am not running mine @ max height, my Commander doesn't see much worse than gravel roads, and I have the v6 up front so I decided to overlook that.

Crushed isolators can certainly effect the height, although my front isolators didnt look bad. I am still running the stock ones.

Spacer lifts (like RC) reduce the rake. Its 2.25" front and 1.5" rear.

If you have the tow package that adds higher rate rear springs which tends to keep the rear end up a bit higher than vehicles without, leading to more pronounced rake.

Just to clarify, I'm certainly not trying to talk you out of the OME lift. Tons of people swear by them. OME springs and struts should level the vehicle out.

Regarding your "front end appears to have sagged" comment, what is the distance between your axles and front fenders?
 
#18 · (Edited)
I grabbed a few photos from fender to tires....

*SNIP*
Fender to tire varies depending on tire size/design and wear. Fender to roughly the center of the axle is a more useful measurement.

:)

You don't have to take the wheel off or anything, just guesstimate the center of the axle shaft. Somewhere in the 18-19" range is pretty normal IIRC. With my lift I am @ roughly 20.5", and up to 23" (lifted) should be safe angles on the front end.
 
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