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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2015, 06:46 AM Thread Starter
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Rear U joint

My rear U joint is getting bad and needs to be replaced but everywhere I call says the U joint and shafts are sold together and it's a dealer only part. Anyone know of an aftermarket company that would have it so I'm not spending a grand from the dealer?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2015, 01:10 PM
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Try eBay, I had to replace mine and I got one for $105.

08 Jeep Commander 3.0L - black grille and moldings, RC 2" lift, 1.5" Spidertrax spacers, 255/70R18 Cooper Discoverer AT, blacked out WK rims, Mygig / VES rear monitor, front and rear tailight guards, 30' Contour Trailerable Trimaran
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2015, 10:01 PM
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Time to upgrade!!! Call carolina drive shaft. Several XK owners have replaced their drive shafts through them while upgrading to serviceable joints. If you do the front I would go with the double cardone setup.


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-23-2015, 04:13 PM
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My rear prop shaft (drive shaft) U-Joint has started to squeak. On the Mopar parts list it does not list the U-Joint as a separate item. You need to buy a complete rear Prop shaft. Has anyone replaced just the U-joint?
Also the yoke doesn't have cir-clips to retain the joint but has had the yoke housing stamped with small positioning tabs. I was just going to drill out these fine tabs out and then press out the joint.

Has anyone done this and give me more info or know what part number or specification for the replacement U-Joint is?
I did a Ebay search and couldn't find one.

I look forward to your help.

XH V6 3 liter diesel Commander: R/H steer, 2 1/2"OME rear lift, 3" front lift - Murchinson coils with steel spacers on top of struts, JeepinByAl upper control arms, Bilsien shocks, GDE chip, Custom low profile transmission cross member, Black alloys, 32 1/2" rubber , Provent crank case filter, custom rockrails, Custom rear bar, Custom front bar with driving lights, custom front bash plate, 12000lb recovery winch, aftermarket CD/Nav/DVD/Rear Cam system, Interior LEDs, HID lights
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-23-2015, 04:53 PM
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Call these guys http://rightgear.com/welcome.htm

I was talking to Dan Williams who owns the company about this very issue. He knows how to get you setup with a drive shaft with replaceable u-joints.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdalameda View Post
Call these guys http://rightgear.com/welcome.htm

I was talking to Dan Williams who owns the company about this very issue. He knows how to get you setup with a drive shaft with replaceable u-joints.
Thanks Mate, one problem though the car is in Brisbane Australia. I'll have to find a local drive shaft expert here and when it comes to Jeeps there's not many local experts that's why I do a lot the work myself.

XH V6 3 liter diesel Commander: R/H steer, 2 1/2"OME rear lift, 3" front lift - Murchinson coils with steel spacers on top of struts, JeepinByAl upper control arms, Bilsien shocks, GDE chip, Custom low profile transmission cross member, Black alloys, 32 1/2" rubber , Provent crank case filter, custom rockrails, Custom rear bar, Custom front bar with driving lights, custom front bash plate, 12000lb recovery winch, aftermarket CD/Nav/DVD/Rear Cam system, Interior LEDs, HID lights
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-24-2015, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by multihull View Post
My rear prop shaft (drive shaft) U-Joint has started to squeak. On the Mopar parts list it does not list the U-Joint as a separate item. You need to buy a complete rear Prop shaft. Has anyone replaced just the U-joint?
Also the yoke doesn't have cir-clips to retain the joint but has had the yoke housing stamped with small positioning tabs. I was just going to drill out these fine tabs out and then press out the joint.

Has anyone done this and give me more info or know what part number or specification for the replacement U-Joint is?
I did a Ebay search and couldn't find one.

I look forward to your help.
Its called staking, when they punch the metal after assembly, to deform the metal around parts and prevent it from being taken apart. In this case, instead of using a snap ring or clip to hold the U-Joint in, they stake the metal around it, to deform it and keep it from coming out.

I have NOT seen an explanation of why they do this lately on many vehicle?
  • Just some shrewd unfair business practice to force owners to spend more for service and repair? unlikely
  • Aluminum prop-shaft, because its softer metal, serviceable u-joints don't work, i.e. they'd ruin the yoke without staking? possible but still unlikely
  • There is no slip yoke, the prop shaft as splines to allow it to lengthen and shorten as required. The splines are just as likely to wear as the u-joints, thus they force you to replace the entire prop shaft thus forcing you to replace all the wearable parts? more likely, but still, you can have a prop shaft with perfectly good splines and bad u-joints, and thus they've screwed you.
  • Higher standards for precision and reliability by the manufacturer, lead them to design and manufacturer the prop shaft this way. Perhaps they have a precise machine to center the u-joint, and stake it that precise position, which make for a smoother, longer lasting prop shaft, than the old methods. Yes, they could still make it serviceable, but that would add a lot of time or cost, driving up the cost even more? very likely

Alternatives I've heard or seen:
  • Get a junkyard prop shaft - obvious it will have wear also, but since many WK/XK prop shafts have lasted a long time, chances or NOT that bad that it will turn out good.
  • Get an aftermarket upgrade prop shaft - probably NOT the cheapest, but people are posting they are cheaper than a new OEM one.
  • Force the U-Joints out, and replace them yourself, then restake them. You may damage the prop shaft attempting this (but all the other alternatives were forcing you to throw it out anyway). There are only so many times you can attempt this, since you loose a little metal each time and need to deform the remaining metal to stake the new U-Joint back in.
You need to figure out the exact replacement U-Joint to buy, I have no idea where to find a part number, you may have to measure and then select from a list of U-Joints that fit the measurements.
You may need to grind out the stake dimples to force it out properly, then when re-intalled, you can use a punch and hammer to re-stake it. You may need an expensive punch for the iron side flange.


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Last edited by Mongo; 05-24-2015 at 11:01 AM.
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