Rough Country lift how to - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Rough Country lift how to

Is there a how to thread for the RC 2" lift? I have the instructions for it, but I know someone has found short cuts or better ways to do things. Any help would be appreciated
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 10:02 AM
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Look for it on youtube there is a tutorial for a jeep Cherokee which is pretty much the same as the commander.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 11:34 AM
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Spray everything with PBlaster several times in the days leading up to the install.

If you run into trouble with the LCA clevis bolt like many do (they rust in place and a lot of people cut them out and replace them) you don't have to remove it.

Here is how to replace struts with the clevis bolt in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
Yes, you do. The entire assembly needs to come out so that you can compress the spring, inspect the parts, and install the new strut. The strut has to be positioned in a specific way upon installation.

Use PB Blaster on all bolts. I also had very good luck with a Lowes impact driver. Made the job go fast and effortlessly with no need to cut anything. I do not remember if you can do this job with the included impact sockets, maybe. I also purchased a set of Stanley metric and standard deep impact sockets on Amazon for $18 and $23 respectively and remember having to purchase a 18mm impact socket because the metric set did not have that size.. So check your sizes first.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_28180-11241-...ductId=3307992

The impact driver also works great to quickly take off and install lug nuts on tires.
First off, good advice on PBlaster and impact's.

Regarding "the Bolt" I compressed the spring, installed it on the strut, slid it into the clevis fork (which was installed in the vehicle) and tightened all the bolts. It was not absolutely necessary to remove the clevis bolt in my case. In fact it was easier to remove the strut from the clevis fork while the bolt was in place, then to do so off of the vehicle.

here is another member that has done it this way:
Quote:
Originally Posted by indianajeep View Post
If the breaker bar would only work. My son-in-law and I replaced the front struts last month, and we could not get that bottom clevis bolt to come out. It rust welds to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing. You can actually feel the rubber bushing torqing back and forth. We did have about a four foot breaker bar. Finally we gave up and pressed down the assembly as far as we could to get it to clear the upper control arm - that's how we removed the strut assembly. I figure if I ever really have to remove that clevis, I will have to buy a new lower control arm and a new clevis - cause that bolt ain't coming out. You could probably wrap the control arm in c4 and blow it up. The jeep would be vaprized and that bolt would still be laying on the ground inside that control arm bushing.
Heres another with pictures: (I was able to leave my UCA in place BTW)
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneunder View Post
I went after it again last night. Figured it was the hottest day out in weeks, might as well work in the garage, right? lol

Anyways, a little recap. My father and I went after the drivers side first a while again, getting the LCA clevis bolt out took a whole weekend, and was generally a PITA. Yesterday, I decided to go after the passenger side first. Hoping that since we slathered the antiseeze on the driver side, that shouldn't take to long.

I got the nut off the bolt, and worked on getting the bolt out for some time. Things started to get a little round and out of shape, and I really had a crappy hammer I was dealing with. So, instead of screwing up the bolt/nut, I went a different route.

Disconnected the sway bar, and removed the Upper Control Arm (removing the UCA might not be necassary, but it sure makes it easier) from the Jeep. Installed spring compressors on the springs, and used my impact to tighten those down:


Like so. And with a little bit of coaxing:

(Make sure you support the bottom of the LCA with another jack or jack stand.)

Shot sans UCA:


Got the bolt that held in the strut to the clevis out with some PB and my impact. Once that was out, the clevis was still hanging onto the strut pretty good. I employed a trick I used when working on my mk4 Jetta. To open the clevis just a touch, use a 3/8"s to 1/4" socket adapter. Not that I need to show you guys, but like this:


It will fit in there, and then a 1/8th of a turn will open it right up. Then a little bit of pulling and the strut came out. VIOLA! Never had to take the LCA bolt out.

Back on the driver side, the bolt came out as expected, easily. Took out the strut assembly, disassembled and reassembled on my work bench. Turns out, I didn;t have the nut that holds the strut to the mounting plate on as tight as I thought. When I installed it, you could tell it wasn't tight. I have to go back in and pull everything and retighten that. Last night I finished at about 9pm, and didn't feel like doing it then.

So, in my experience, I would tell everyone A) There is not need to take out the bolt, and B) compress the spring while it is still in the Jeep. I wish I would have done it this way from the beginning.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 12:17 PM
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I just installed a RC leveling kit on my brothers truck (not a Jeep) a few weeks ago and although its different in what your doing, I can't tell you how much PB Blaster or Kroil helps with the project.

We sprayed PB Blaster on every day for 3 days prior to the project. Both work well, although I personally rate Kroil penetrating oil the best. WD-40 is not designed for that kind of usage/penetration, although its better then nothing I guess...but at least go out and grab some PB Blaster.

The other thing is using an impact gun to break some of the bolts and nuts loose. One thing that we learned, was you need a compressor that puts out enough compressed air. I didn't hook up my big 2 stage compressor and we struggled with a small portable Craftsman compressor, that only gave us a max of about 115psi, so it was typically operating at 85-90psi. We ended up having to break some bolts loose with the help of a long pipe, slipped over the ratchet. If you have a good compressor it will help a lot and cut your time down considerably.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-24-2015, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBCBIRD View Post
I just installed a RC leveling kit on my brothers truck (not a Jeep) a few weeks ago and although its different in what your doing, I can't tell you how much PB Blaster or Kroil helps with the project.

We sprayed PB Blaster on every day for 3 days prior to the project. Both work well, although I personally rate Kroil penetrating oil the best. WD-40 is not designed for that kind of usage/penetration, although its better then nothing I guess...but at least go out and grab some PB Blaster.

The other thing is using an impact gun to break some of the bolts and nuts loose. One thing that we learned, was you need a compressor that puts out enough compressed air. I didn't hook up my big 2 stage compressor and we struggled with a small portable Craftsman compressor, that only gave us a max of about 115psi, so it was typically operating at 85-90psi. We ended up having to break some bolts loose with the help of a long pipe, slipped over the ratchet. If you have a good compressor it will help a lot and cut your time down considerably.
Good point on the impact guns. I don't own a decent compressor so I didnt bother with it. I just used a breaker bar, lots of swear words, and beer.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 07:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyse7ens View Post
Spray everything with PBlaster several times in the days leading up to the install.

If you run into trouble with the LCA clevis bolt like many do (they rust in place and a lot of people cut them out and replace them) you don't have to remove it.

Here is how to replace struts with the clevis bolt in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCS1300 View Post
Yes, you do. The entire assembly needs to come out so that you can compress the spring, inspect the parts, and install the new strut. The strut has to be positioned in a specific way upon installation.

Use PB Blaster on all bolts. I also had very good luck with a Lowes impact driver. Made the job go fast and effortlessly with no need to cut anything. I do not remember if you can do this job with the included impact sockets, maybe. I also purchased a set of Stanley metric and standard deep impact sockets on Amazon for $18 and $23 respectively and remember having to purchase a 18mm impact socket because the metric set did not have that size.. So check your sizes first.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_28180-11241-...ductId=3307992

The impact driver also works great to quickly take off and install lug nuts on tires.
First off, good advice on PBlaster and impact's.

Regarding "the Bolt" I compressed the spring, installed it on the strut, slid it into the clevis fork (which was installed in the vehicle) and tightened all the bolts. It was not absolutely necessary to remove the clevis bolt in my case. In fact it was easier to remove the strut from the clevis fork while the bolt was in place, then to do so off of the vehicle.

here is another member that has done it this way:
Quote:
Originally Posted by indianajeep View Post
If the breaker bar would only work. My son-in-law and I replaced the front struts last month, and we could not get that bottom clevis bolt to come out. It rust welds to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing. You can actually feel the rubber bushing torqing back and forth. We did have about a four foot breaker bar. Finally we gave up and pressed down the assembly as far as we could to get it to clear the upper control arm - that's how we removed the strut assembly. I figure if I ever really have to remove that clevis, I will have to buy a new lower control arm and a new clevis - cause that bolt ain't coming out. You could probably wrap the control arm in c4 and blow it up. The jeep would be vaprized and that bolt would still be laying on the ground inside that control arm bushing.
Heres another with pictures: (I was able to leave my UCA in place BTW)
Quote:
Originally Posted by oneunder View Post
I went after it again last night. Figured it was the hottest day out in weeks, might as well work in the garage, right? lol

Anyways, a little recap. My father and I went after the drivers side first a while again, getting the LCA clevis bolt out took a whole weekend, and was generally a PITA. Yesterday, I decided to go after the passenger side first. Hoping that since we slathered the antiseeze on the driver side, that shouldn't take to long.

I got the nut off the bolt, and worked on getting the bolt out for some time. Things started to get a little round and out of shape, and I really had a crappy hammer I was dealing with. So, instead of screwing up the bolt/nut, I went a different route.

Disconnected the sway bar, and removed the Upper Control Arm (removing the UCA might not be necassary, but it sure makes it easier) from the Jeep. Installed spring compressors on the springs, and used my impact to tighten those down:


Like so. And with a little bit of coaxing:

(Make sure you support the bottom of the LCA with another jack or jack stand.)

Shot sans UCA:


Got the bolt that held in the strut to the clevis out with some PB and my impact. Once that was out, the clevis was still hanging onto the strut pretty good. I employed a trick I used when working on my mk4 Jetta. To open the clevis just a touch, use a 3/8"s to 1/4" socket adapter. Not that I need to show you guys, but like this:


It will fit in there, and then a 1/8th of a turn will open it right up. Then a little bit of pulling and the strut came out. VIOLA! Never had to take the LCA bolt out.

Back on the driver side, the bolt came out as expected, easily. Took out the strut assembly, disassembled and reassembled on my work bench. Turns out, I didn;t have the nut that holds the strut to the mounting plate on as tight as I thought. When I installed it, you could tell it wasn't tight. I have to go back in and pull everything and retighten that. Last night I finished at about 9pm, and didn't feel like doing it then.

So, in my experience, I would tell everyone A) There is not need to take out the bolt, and B) compress the spring while it is still in the Jeep. I wish I would have done it this way from the beginning.
It would seem to me from the pic from @oneunder that don't need to disconnect anything else after you have the strut pointing out....why not just add the spacer without removing the strut? because from what I've seen, it goes in clevis first anyway.

Last edited by Holiday Jones; 04-25-2015 at 07:39 AM.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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Got it like a boss
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 04:58 PM
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where did you get a garage like that? i wish i had that much space when I put in my OME lift.

2007 White XK Hemi w/QD2: Purchased with 109k on the odometer. 118k currently. 2" OME HD lift, Tactical Armor Group front and rear bumpers. JK rubicon Moab wheels Plasti-dipped Charcoal. 1.5" wheel spacers
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coophadley View Post
where did you get a garage like that? i wish i had that much space when I put in my OME lift.
No doubt...that garage is bigger the my 1st apartment. I would love to have a garage like that. I have a detached two and a half car garage now but it's filled with so much stuff, I wouldn't be able to get a car in there if I wanted to.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-26-2015, 06:01 PM
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Is the last picture with just the front lift or front and back installed?
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