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Suspension / Lifts This is the place to discuss the suspension, lift systems, and other stuff underneath your Jeep Commander

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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Unsafe to drive?

Okay so I finally got my RRO 2.5" lift installed Tuesday! I was really exited until I started driving it. Going down the road at 50 now seems like a daunting task. A simple bump on the road now causes a almost out of control sensation. And the steering wheel is extremely loose! I have not had my alignment done yet (I wanted it done at a Jeep dealership) but I have it scheduled for Monday AM. I am getting a 4 wheel alignment and suspension check done and hope this will solve the problems. But I am one of those people who want answers now to help me sleep better at night. So any opinions? Is it just from a messed up alignment? Or do you think its something else that I could have the dealership look at? I just don't see how an alignment issue can cause such a dramatic handling problem. I know one thing, safety comes before looks and if the alignment doesn't fix it the lift might have to come off

1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 2007 Jeep Commander Sport - 2.5" RRO Lift
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 05:48 AM
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It's the alignment. You'll be fine once everything's squared away.

-Matt
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 07:53 AM
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I agree with Matt. The first time I got my RC lift installed it felt very strange driving it. I had to wait until the next day to get the alignment done and I didn't like it at all. Once it was done then it felt fine. 2.5" is quite a change so the toes will be pointing inward. Even steering felt funny to me too like you mentioned. You'll be all good to go after your alignment.

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Mods: AFE Magnum Force Stage 2 CAI, OME HD Lift w/OME Shocks and Struts, Goodyear Wrangler All Terrains w/Kevlar 255/70R17, JBA Gen 6.7 Upper Control Arms, Hypertech Speedo Calibrator, Magnaflow cat-back system, Custom Retrofit HID Projectors, LED Conversion Kit for Fog Lights, Rigid Industries D2 LED Driving Lights


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 03:11 PM
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It's easy to imagine lifting the IFS without aligning it resulted in a lot of toe out. A lot of toe out would make the steering wheel dart about, weird feedback from the steering, and a lot of scrubbing action as the suspension traveled. So, yea, lets hope once you get the alignment everything will feel OK.

Remember, different diameter wheels have to be programmed into the electronics for the ABS/BAS/EPS, etc. A different tire overall diameter would throw the computer off and cause all sorts of stray reactions.


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2015, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input! & Mongo I thought the Starr Scan tool didn't have the 265 70 17. A lot of people have that size tire and they don't seem to have system issues like you mention.

1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport - 2007 Jeep Commander Sport - 2.5" RRO Lift
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2015, 10:27 AM
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I would have them do a thorough check of all of your rubber bits under there while its at the alignment shop. We had a similar issue with our Grand Cherokee and even after the alignment we still had the issue. Turns out we had some worn out components that the original alignment shop didn't catch. Actually they missed it 4 times. Took it someplace else and they found it right away.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2015, 11:59 AM
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I think the input is the tire diameter in inches. At least it is with my Autoenginuity Tool, perhaps the dealer tool uses the tire size and calculates it itself.

The stock 245/65-R17 is 29.5" in overall diameter.
A tire that is 265/70-R17 is 31.6" in overall diameter.

I would think there would be "potential" for some problems, but I have never had larger tires on my Commander, so I can't dispute those that have. Remember, its relative, the smaller the difference the less the effect, as well, the more radical you drive or more drastic the maneuver to create differences in wheel speed will magnify those differences.

Keep in mind, if you've had the speedometer corrected for the larger tires, then the system has the correction factor applied. If your speedometer is off, then you potentially could have a problem.


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Had my alignment don't this morning, and I can already tell that it's a lot better! The only thing is now my steering wheel Is off center just a tad. Ugh my OCD will force me back to the dealership to get it fixed.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 12:37 PM
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Ugh, is right, they didn't do the alignment correctly, that is part of the steps of doing an alignment, check to see if the steering wheel is aligned. As well, since there is sensors in the steering, if the steering wheel is off center it can effect the ESP/BAS/stability control, etc...


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trevor757 View Post
Had my alignment don't this morning, and I can already tell that it's a lot better! The only thing is now my steering wheel Is off center just a tad. Ugh my OCD will force me back to the dealership to get it fixed.
Did they give you a printout of your measurements?

Ill bet they set the toe and let it go...


http://www.jeepgarage.org/f185/cambe...ent-29296.html

Camber adjustment is made at the LCA (lower control arm) The bolts that anchor the LCA are in slots. Loosen and you can slide it in and out.


Edit: Here's a little more detail-

CAMBER, CASTER AND TOE ADJUSTMENT
Camber and caster angle adjustments involve changing the position of the lower control arm with the slots in the frame brackets to move the lower control arm inwards or outwards for proper adjustment. This can be achieved by using a long pry bar with a curved tip and inserting the pry bar into the lower control arm frame brackets and prying inwards or outwards.

NOTE: Camber and caster adjustments must be made at the lower control arm. Do not use the upper control arm for Camber and Caster adjustments.

NOTE: When the lower control arm pivot bolts are loosened the lower control arm will normally go outwards automatically with the weight of the vehicle.



CASTER
Moving the rear position of the lower control arm at the frame in or out, will change the caster angle significantly and camber angle only slightly. To maintain the camber angle while adjusting caster, move the rear of the lower control arm in or out. Then move the front of the lower control arm slightly in the opposite direction.



CAMBER
Move both the front and rear of the lower control arm together in or out. This will change the camber angle significantly and caster angle slightly.

After adjustment is made tighten the lower control arm bolt & nuts to FRONT169 Nm (125 ft. lbs.) and the REAR 88 Nm (65 ft. lbs.).
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