Rear Swaybar Disconnects - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Swaybar Disconnects

There has been alot of discussion about front or rear sway bar disconnects. Which performs better? Who did what? and so on. Well after research and some testing of my own I have decided the rear swaybar disconnect is best. I have found a set of disconnects and am currently on break from installing them. When completed I will do a full write up with pics and part number for those who would like to do this too. Just a heads up it is very very easy to do.

Bright Silver 4.7L 2.25 RR/OME lift, Kumho KL71 265/70/17, Flashpaq, Lights, rack, intake, Super44, mopar skids, 4x belly guard, rear fog lights, MM9500 winch, GetLost4x4 winch mount

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 03:28 PM
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Good, waiting your findings ,,,

I heard that most of SUVs with solid axles don't come with rear sway bar, Is that correct?
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Swaybar Disconnects

Let me start by saying sorry for the blurry pictures but you should be able to get the idea from them. Also the reason I have chosen to go with rear disconnects is due to many hours of research on the subject. It is customary to remove the front links, however on a lifted XK (2.25" on mine) this could result in damage. The XK uses the strut to limit travel in the front, which would let you disconnect the front swaybar without damage if your at stock height. If you are lifted the stut no longer limits your suspension drop, The ball joint is now your limiter. This could result in immediate and severe ball joint failure. That being said I have chosen to put the links on the rear. The primary purpose of this is to first have longer links for normal driving conditions. I will only use the links disconnected after I have relocated/lengthened brake lines. I have tested the flex after installing the longer links and it is greatly improved. The swap is very basic with only one modification necessary.

For this modification I used the JKS part #2001 sway bar quick disconnects.
Approximate part cost $130
Approximate mod time 1-2 hrs (no rush)

Note: The stock upper link bolts will be reused, SAVE THESE BOLTS! The second note is that you will need to drill out the upper sleeve in the new links to fit the stock bolts. The sleeve is aluminum so use extreme caution when drilling.

Tools:
1. 3/4" Wrench
2. 17MM socket
3. Socket wrench
4. Vise Grip/Pliers
5. Drill and Drill bit
I know SAE and Metric? Thats just what I used to make it work.

Steps:
1. Remove the stock swaybar links. You will need your 17MM socket for the top bolt. You will need the 3/4" wrench and vise grips to remove the lower bolt. The vise grips hold the outter most part of the bolt and the 3/4" wrench to turn the nut.


Link removed


2. Unpack your new swaybar links and take the upper pin mount off the link and set it aside it will not be used.Your links should now look like this to move on to the next step.

Bright Silver 4.7L 2.25 RR/OME lift, Kumho KL71 265/70/17, Flashpaq, Lights, rack, intake, Super44, mopar skids, 4x belly guard, rear fog lights, MM9500 winch, GetLost4x4 winch mount

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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3. You will need to drill out the top sleeve from the new links to fit the upper bolt from the swaybar link. Note the left has the modification the right does not.


4. Setup your links to the desired length. The stock links are about 9" long. Accounting for the lift you have adjust the links to the height you need. Be sure the two ends are prefectly aligned and tighten the adjuster nut.



5. Install the lower pins with the supplied nylon lock nuts. The bolt end fits into the stock swaybar attached to you axle. Secure the nut with the 3/4" wrench and use your vise grips to hold the pin end.

Bright Silver 4.7L 2.25 RR/OME lift, Kumho KL71 265/70/17, Flashpaq, Lights, rack, intake, Super44, mopar skids, 4x belly guard, rear fog lights, MM9500 winch, GetLost4x4 winch mount

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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6. Install the links with the factory upper bolts through your modified sleeves. Tighten the bolts prior to attaching the lower end of the link to the swaybar.


7. Connect the lower ends of the links to the sway bar. The poly bushing should go between the link and the swaybar then install the snapring pin to secure the links.


8. Go out and have fun. Sorry I do not have any pics of the test I did but there was a noticable gain in articulation with the longer links still connected. I will post pictures as soon as they are available.

Bright Silver 4.7L 2.25 RR/OME lift, Kumho KL71 265/70/17, Flashpaq, Lights, rack, intake, Super44, mopar skids, 4x belly guard, rear fog lights, MM9500 winch, GetLost4x4 winch mount

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 12:19 AM
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here is what mine does without sway bars and 12" travel bilstien 5150 shocks.



i drive it with the swaybar removed in the back and can hardly notice a difference in corners.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Do you have an issue with the rear brake lines? Also I agree that in controlled situations the swaybar can be disconnected driving around town. In an emergency avoidance situation you will want it connected.

Bright Silver 4.7L 2.25 RR/OME lift, Kumho KL71 265/70/17, Flashpaq, Lights, rack, intake, Super44, mopar skids, 4x belly guard, rear fog lights, MM9500 winch, GetLost4x4 winch mount

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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 10:54 AM
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if you look for my old thread on the brake line drop brackets i got from superlift you can see they are dropped about 2-3 inches. so far i have not had any issues.

i agree in an emergency swerve they would help. but i really don't have much rear sway with the much stiffer rear shocks. it rolls a little more in corners, but its hardly noticeable. i just slow down. most of the roads (except up in the mountains) are fairly straight with miles of sight ahead.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 10:56 AM
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nice. maybe i should see about selling those as well. i could pre-drill them so they are a quick bolt on part.

also if you use a 5/16th" wrench on the bottom with your 3/4 wrench you can get the nut off.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 11:28 AM
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I am about to order these. I just want to make sure of a couple things first. They will work on a stock XK correct. Meaning the length will be fine since im not lifted. Also how hard is it to disconnect them when the time comes to go offroading. Is it something where i just get under the XK pull the pin and im set? Last question is where did you buy them from. Id like to order mine today.




2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front OME MD Springs w/Superlift Preload Spacer | Rear 4" Superlift Springs | Bilstein 5125 Rear Shocks | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Black Rock 997 Wheels | Fred Goeske 1/4 Inch Wheel Spacers | 305/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R w/Kevlar | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front E-Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete
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