HOW TO: Rear Swaybar Disconnects - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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HOW TO: Rear Swaybar Disconnects

There has been a lot of discussion about front or rear sway bar disconnects. Which performs better? Who did what? and so on. Well after research and some testing of my own I have decided the rear sway bar disconnect is best. I have found a set of disconnects and what follows is a detailed instruction on HOW TO install this disconnect on your XK. Just a heads up it is very very easy to do.

For Discussion on this HOW TO go HERE! Rear sway bar disconnects or here; JKS Rear sway bar quick disconnects
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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HOW TO: Rear Sway Bar Disconnects

Let me start by saying it is customary to remove the front links, however on a lifted XK (2.25" on mine) this could result in damage. The C0mmander (XK) uses the strut to limit travel in the front, which would let you disconnect the front sway bar without damage if your at stock height. If you are lifted the strut no longer limits your suspension drop, The ball joint is now your limiter. This could result in immediate and severe ball joint failure. That being said I have chosen to put the links on the rear. The primary purpose of this is to first have longer links for normal driving conditions. I will only use the links disconnected after I have relocated/lengthened brake lines. I have tested the flex after installing the longer links and it is greatly improved. The swap is very basic with only one modification necessary.

For this modification I used the JKS part #2001 sway bar quick disconnects.
Approximate part cost $130
Approximate mod time 1-2 hrs (no rush)

Note: The stock upper link bolts will be reused, SAVE THESE BOLTS! The second note is that you will need to drill out the upper sleeve in the new links to fit the stock bolts. The sleeve is aluminum so use extreme caution when drilling.

Tools:
1. 3/4" Wrench
2. 18mm socket
3. Socket wrench
4. Vise Grip/Pliers
5. Drill and Drill bit

I know SAE and Metric? That is just what I used to make it work.


OEM vs. JKS



Step by step procedures:

1. Remove the stock sway bar links. You will need your 18mm socket for the top bolt. You will need the 3/4" wrench and Vise Grips to remove the lower bolt. The Vise Grips hold the outer most part of the bolt and the 3/4" wrench to turn the nut.



OEM end link off.



2. Unpack your new sway bar links and take the upper pin mount off the link and set it aside it will not be used. Your links should now look like this to move on to the next step.

New JKS Quick Disconnects.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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3. You will need to drill out the top sleeve from the new links to fit the upper bolt from the swaybar link. Note the left has the modification the right does not.



4. Setup your links to the desired length. The stock links are about 9" long. Accounting for the lift you have adjust the links to the height you need. Be sure the two ends are perfectly aligned and tighten the adjuster nut.

Old vs. New



5. Install the lower pins with the supplied nylon lock nuts. The bolt end fits into the stock sway bar attached to you axle. Secure the nut with the 3/4" wrench and use your Vise Grips to hold the pin end.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-23-2008, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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6. Install the links with the factory upper bolts through your modified sleeves. Tighten the bolts prior to attaching the lower end of the link to the sway bar.

7. Connect the lower ends of the links to the sway bar. The poly bushing should go between the link and the swaybar then install the snapring pin to secure the links.



8. Go out and have fun.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-24-2008, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07JeepXK
How exactly did you drill out the upper sleeve. Did you put it in a vice or something. Also do you know the size of the drill bit you had to use and did you start with a smaller bit and work your way up?
The sleeve has a hole in it for a smaller bolt and the difference between that one and the size of the new hole was only about one bit size. I would have to check the size of the drill bit I used it was just big enough to fit the bolt through. I used my drill press to drill out the sleeve. If you don't have a drill press you can use a vise and carefullly drill with a hand drill.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 07:08 PM
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JKS Rear Sway Bar Quick Disconnects COPY

I finally got around to installing the quick disconnects on Friday. I was able to take a few pictures during the install since some of adam's were a little blury. His instructions were great however the sizes he stated were wrong, well at least the were for my year Commander. Both the upper and lower bolts for the stock sway bar were 18 mm. Not 17 mm for the top and 3/4 for the bottom like stated. Anyway the install went smothe and the restults are amazing!

Picture of stock sway bar end link.
[IMG][/IMG]

New JKS Quick Disconnects.
[IMG][/IMG]

Old vs. New
[IMG][/IMG]

Old end link off.
[IMG][/IMG]

lower end of disconnect installed on sway bar.
[IMG][/IMG]




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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-30-2008, 07:09 PM
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I finally got around to installing the quick disconnects on Friday. I was able to take a few pictures during the install since some of Adam's were a little blurry. The install went soothe and the results are amazing!

Quick Disconnect installed.

Just a little Flex.









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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-31-2008, 11:24 PM
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Thank you Adam & 07JeepXK for the great write up and pictures!

For Discussion on this HOW TO go HERE! Rear sway bar disconnects or here; JKS Rear sawy bar quick disconnects



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