Planning for my custom made spacer lift - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Planning for my custom made spacer lift

Now I'm planning for a custom made spacer lift for my Commander, as I'm fed up of getting stuck in sand dunes due to the extremely low ground clearance (especially under the front axle)

Making custom spacer made of aluminum is common in here and not that expensive (around $130 including manufacturing and fixing)
  • My plan is lift the front side with exactly 2", and then lift the rear end to make it almost level with the front (little higher to handle some load without dropping the rear end too much below the front)
  • The front spacer will come on top for the struts to avoid stretching the shock.
  • As Robby explained in his thread, I assume 1" spacer will result in 2" lift, Is that true for such lift?
  • For the rear spacer, I think the thickness of the spacer should be the same as the lift needed.
  • Does it make any difference to put the rear spacer on top or bottom of the coil?
  • For the front spacer bolts, should I use the original bolts to attache the struts to the spacer and new bolts to attache the spacer to the mount, or should I use longer bolts to attache the hole setup together?
  • What about the spacer being made of aluminum? is it ok, safe and reliable?

After the lift I might go for 265/65/17 tires, or 265/70/17, without wheel spacers.


TO Robby, I know that is against your theory that says:
Quote:
My theory is, if it requires large changes (and, to a vehicle, 2" is large) Then I probably bought the wrong vehicle.
But I believe that I got the wrong vehicle, and trying to live with it, I didn't think I will use it for off-road as much as I do.


Any suggestions, opinions and advice is highly appreciated
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahmed
Now I'm planning for a custom made spacer lift for my Commander, as I'm fed up of getting stuck in sand dunes due to the extremely low ground clearance (especially under the front axle)
A lift will not change the height of the axle.

2006 Steel Blue 5.7L HEMI Limited 4x4 Build Date: June 9, 2006 Hour 14
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep5253 View Post
A lift will not change the height of the axle.
Well I mean under the front side then, if you want to be precise

And maybe the word "diff" would have been better than "axle" and for sure the lift WILL change the diff height.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahmed
Well I mean under the front side then, if you want to be precise
And maybe the word "diff" would have been better than "axle" and for sure the lift WILL change the diff height.
No, Ahmed, I'm sorry to tell you it won't change the diff height.

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Last edited by jeep5253; 11-01-2008 at 03:05 PM.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep5253 View Post
A lift will not change the height of the axle.
but his new tires will
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep5253 View Post
[/[/COLOR]quote]
No, Ahmed, I'm sorry to tell you it won't change the diff height.
The front diff is attached to the body, and the spacers will lift the body together with the front diff.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UberCommander View Post
but his new tires will
Yes, this is true.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahmed View Post
The front diff is attached to the body, and the spacers will lift the body together with the front diff.
The front diff is part of the front axle - not the body.

2006 Steel Blue 5.7L HEMI Limited 4x4 Build Date: June 9, 2006 Hour 14
Interior: Dark Slate/Light Graystone with Saddle Brown Leather Seats
Quadra-Drive II, NAV, DVD, Trailer Tow Group IV, Off-Road Group II, Remote Start, UConnect, Rear Backup Camera, Chrome Wheels,
Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, Daytime Running Lights enabled, 2" Rough Country Lift with 265/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler AT/S
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 04:24 PM
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The front diff is part of the front "axle" but it stays in place relative to the engine/chassis - one benfit to having IFS. Look at any standard front wheel drive car with a transaxle (which incorporates the diff/final drive). Same concept.

I am working under mine today (putting on a lift - front is not cooperating...) and when I lifted it up with the jack I could see the unsprung suspension drop but the diff went up with the rest of the jeep.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-02-2008, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahmed View Post
Now I'm planning for a custom made spacer lift for my Commander, as I'm fed up of getting stuck in sand dunes due to the extremely low ground clearance (especially under the front axle)

Making custom spacer made of aluminum is common in here and not that expensive (around $130 including manufacturing and fixing)
  • My plan is lift the front side with exactly 2", and then lift the rear end to make it almost level with the front (little higher to handle some load without dropping the rear end too much below the front)
  • The front spacer will come on top for the struts to avoid stretching the shock.
  • As Robby explained in his thread, I assume 1" spacer will result in 2" lift, Is that true for such lift?
  • For the rear spacer, I think the thickness of the spacer should be the same as the lift needed.
  • Does it make any difference to put the rear spacer on top or bottom of the coil?
  • For the front spacer bolts, should I use the original bolts to attache the struts to the spacer and new bolts to attache the spacer to the mount, or should I use longer bolts to attache the hole setup together?
  • What about the spacer being made of aluminum? is it ok, safe and reliable?

After the lift I might go for 265/65/17 tires, or 265/70/17, without wheel spacers.


TO Robby, I know that is against your theory that says:


But I believe that I got the wrong vehicle, and trying to live with it, I didn't think I will use it for off-road as much as I do.


Any suggestions, opinions and advice is highly appreciated

Ahmed, I disagree,
You have the right vehicle. But you have now admitted you also need a dune buggy.
I wish I needed a dune buggy, living out in the flatlands gets boring.

Regarding your lift question, I'm sorta wondering why you want to make a lift thats already available? 2" ?
Anyways, there is a 2" kit out there that is comprised of a plate like mine with a spacer welded to it and another plate like mine welded to the spacer.
The strut plate bolts to this spacer lower plate using the original studs. The spacer upper plate bolts through the original holes at the body mount with replacement fasteners.
One of the best 2" designs in my opinion because it minimizes disassembly.

You are contemplating expanding on my design, which by the way has grown again to 1.5"
Commander Ron is currently running this setup for testing.

Anyways, if you add more than 1/2" to the top of the plate, replacement, longer bolts will have to be substituted for the original studs, and, even at 2" there is barely enouph stud to use.
As far as using aluminum, you should be OK.
Wouldn't work here though. The road salt will turn them to dust in two seasons.
I wish I could get ahold of the alloy used for our knuckles.
They are aluminum but seem to be unaffected by road salt.

As I said before, there are so many 2" and 2.5" quality designs out there I wouldn't even try to improve on them, but evidently you like to make your own stuff, and thats good.
Regarding a rear spring spacer, you are correct in your one to one ratio.
It is better for the ride quality, and less stressful to the spacer if it mounted above the spring. By having it above the spring there is no change in unsprung weight.

Thats about all that comes to mind right now,
Rob
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