New Clevis Extention, front 3.5" lift? - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
Suspension / Lifts This is the place to discuss the suspension, lift systems, and other stuff underneath your Jeep Commander

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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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New Clevis Extention, front 3.5" lift?

Anyone hear anything good or bad about Clevis/ front strut extension lift? It is the Protune Suspension Steel Lift Kit | Front 3.5" Rear 2" | Grand Cherokee WK Commander XK. I have a 3" OME that I may add this to. Any thoughts good or bad? Seems less work than cheap metal top strut spacer but is it much less strong????

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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-24-2017, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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$150 for front and back spacers. rear is like metal Rough Country but front is extended/reenforced clevis ..... hmmmm? Think much less time and effort than top 2" regular spacer as with other products we are more use to. Looks like an hour Job, so 3.5 for me.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 03:33 PM
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How far off the ground are your front wheel wells? Mine are 37.5 with ome and Bilstein 5100s. This gives me about 1.5 in downward travel.... Very little. I don't think you will be able to get the extended fork in there and bolt everything up ... And If somehow you do, there will be terrible stress on the front driveline and absolutely no downward travel... It will definitely look really cool though.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 04:30 PM
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These have been around for awhile. Heavy Metal is the first brand I remember seeing on EBAY.

Generally they are overrating their lift numbers. Actual ride height increase is around 1.5" to 2" (from stock height) in the front IIRC, and 1.5" in the rear. They add those numbers together and that is where they get "3.5" lift"

This is probably a good option for someone with issues with their clevis and clevis bolt since it is usually hard to find a stock replacement clevis. AFAIK there is no strength increase, probably weaker then stock just looking at them, but I have not heard of anyone breaking them.

As someone that has torn down the front end twice Im not sure how this is any easier then a RC style lift. Same degree of difficulty IMHO.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thance View Post
How far off the ground are your front wheel wells? Mine are 37.5 with ome and Bilstein 5100s. This gives me about 1.5 in downward travel.... Very little. I don't think you will be able to get the extended fork in there and bolt everything up ... And If somehow you do, there will be terrible stress on the front driveline and absolutely no downward travel... It will definitely look really cool though.


Measuring off of the ground includes tire height. which varies of course. Its more useful to measure fender lip to axle centerline.

Generally anything over 22.5" is too high without a superlift to correct geometry.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 04:47 PM
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This is true, but it gives some reference, and there is no line in the center of the hub. I'm running 265/70/17... So roughly a 32 / 2 =16 or 21.5 using center of hub.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thance View Post
How far off the ground are your front wheel wells? Mine are 37.5 with ome and Bilstein 5100s. This gives me about 1.5 in downward travel.... Very little. I don't think you will be able to get the extended fork in there and bolt everything up ... And If somehow you do, there will be terrible stress on the front driveline and absolutely no downward travel... It will definitely look really cool though.
LOL, yes but we need it to work good too.... My front fenders are 35.5" from ground and back is 36.5" and 265/70 R17 on OME springs and OME shocks. PO didn't even know he had a lift so I don't know much about it. OME shocks just say Nitro Charged and can't see a part# and see springs just have an OME tag (old man emu). that's all I could get, not sure how many different setups they have for xk unless just 1.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by luckyse7ens View Post
Measuring off of the ground includes tire height. which varies of course. Its more useful to measure fender lip to axle centerline.

Generally anything over 22.5" is too high without a superlift to correct geometry.
That's great info. I'll do the measuring then. If it all adds up do u think it would be less work than the Rough Country Hockey puck style spacer to add a little or is it the same work? Just mentioning I have the Hemi because things are so tight in there every time I need to work on something and many of the plastic parts are now brittle w electric housing, clips etc in my 2006. Not sure if that's another issue or better off not touching. Was thinking about cooler, possibly even 180 thermostat if someone recommends or even putting in vents in hood at this point. ugg Thanks everyone!

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thance View Post
This is true, but it gives some reference, and there is no line in the center of the hub. I'm running 265/70/17... So roughly a 32 / 2 =16 or 21.5 using center of hub.
unfortunately just because the tire is sold as a 265/70r17 does not make it exactly 32" tire size can vary between manufacturer even despite using industry standard measurements.

Its pretty damn easy to eyeball the center of your hub.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2017, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry'sXK View Post
That's great info. I'll do the measuring then. If it all adds up do u think it would be less work than the Rough Country Hockey puck style spacer to add a little or is it the same work? Just mentioning I have the Hemi because things are so tight in there every time I need to work on something and many of the plastic parts are now brittle w electric housing, clips etc in my 2006. Not sure if that's another issue or better off not touching. Was thinking about cooler, possibly even 180 thermostat if someone recommends or even putting in vents in hood at this point. ugg Thanks everyone!
Lower thermostats will not increase the cooling capacity of any vehicle. Thats an old school hot rodder deal. Modern electronically controlled engines are designed to work most efficiently in a certain temperature range.

Do you have cooling problems?

I forget what years have a mech fan (i think 2006 does) but you could swap to high quality electric fans, maybe OEM(not the cheapo bright red chinesium ones the tuners use) That frees up power and can increase cooling capacity when paired with a proper shroud.

Radiators can be upgraded certainly, but again dont fall into the trap of getting a cheapo "performance" rad from ebay or something. You'll likely be hurting rather then helping.
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