Additional Information for Rough Country Lift Installation - Jeep Commander Forums: Jeep Commander Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-12-2009, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Additional Information for Rough Country Lift Installation

Okay, I finally got around to attempting my Rough Country lift today. Everything was going spledidly until I realized that I needed a 24mm socket for the bottom of the strut. The biggest I had was a 21mm. Problem. I'm not supposed to leave work "unfinished" in the apartment parking lot so I thought I was done. I thought I might be able to just angle the strut forward without actually removing it and get the spacer on that way. Without removing the bolt at the bottom of the strut there was no way I was going to get it back together once I put the spacer on. I gave up at this point. I put everything back together and drove to the hardware store to get a 24mm socket. At least everything went back together faster than when I took it apart.

So was there a way to add the spacer without removing the strut completely? I seemed to be limited by the brake line.

Gabe
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-12-2009, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I should clarify. Not so much a problem with the Rough Country product but more with the instructions. At the beginning it lists all of the tools you will need. The 24mm socket was not on the list. It just made me a little grumpy this afternoon.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-12-2009, 08:32 PM
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Im not sure how my lift kit differs from yours but I had to totally take the strut/spring out and use a spring compressor to replace the top strut plate with the new one provided by BDS. The new top strut plate is the actual spacer provided to lift the front end. Im assuming your spacers just bolt on to the exhisting top strut plate. Did your instuctions say you have to take the strut fork bolt/nut off?




2007 4.7 Liter XK | Front OME MD Springs w/Superlift Preload Spacer | Rear 4" Superlift Springs | Bilstein 5125 Rear Shocks | JBA UCA's | Rusty's Rear Adjustable Track Bar | Black Rock 997 Wheels | Fred Goeske 1/4 Inch Wheel Spacers | 305/70R17 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R w/Kevlar | Airflow Snorkel | Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler | Superchips Flashpaq | Mopar Skids | 4xGuard Belly Guard | American Rebel Rear Diff Cover | Rear Powertrax No-Slip | Front E-Locker | Rear Heat/AC Delete

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-12-2009, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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It did...but I tried to get away with not doing it since I didn't have the required 24mm socket. I bought it this evening but I won't get to it until tomorrow now if the weather is good. I really have to get my jeep ready before next weekend. I want to be able to enjoy the badlands!!!!
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-12-2009, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CommanderChaos View Post
I guess I should clarify. Not so much a problem with the Rough Country product but more with the instructions.
I edited your title so others would not think the problem was with the brand of lift itself!



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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-12-2009, 10:53 PM
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I have the Rough Country lift. If you don't completely remove the struts, I see no way that you will be able to bolt on the spacer. There just isn't enough room , plus you have to grind off a little of the studs on top of the strut in order for them to fit within the spacer and not bottom out. you will see exactly what I'm referring to when you get to that point.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 01:42 AM
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I installed mine about a month ago, i had to disconnect the drive shaft to get the strut out. Instructions are not for four wheel drive. You definitely need to grind the strut studs, or you could add one of those 1/4" spacers between the strut and the RC lift, that would work great. I'm sure we'll enjoy the badlands either way. Good luck gettin the lift in. It's actually easier than it seems. The bottom strut bolt was a PITA to get out because it was pretty corroded on mine it took about an hour per side just to get that one bolt out. Hope it goes easier for you. Look forward to seeing you next week.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 08:37 AM
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I did not have to remove drive shaft, but I have the 3.7. Maybe that makes a difference. i thought the directions were pretty good compared to other products that you buy. The only snag we ran into is on the left rear. The trailing arm won't drop enough because of the gas tank skid plate. Drop the skid plate, and it's no problem. Don't remove the trailing arm from the rear. It will be a bear to get back attached. Also the instructions dont mention using a spring compressor. You need one.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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You need a spring compressor? Which part of the install?
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 11:26 AM
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When I did mine, I found it handy to remove the lower strut fork, stick the strut in and then re-attach the fork. Seemed to me that was the only way I had enough clearance to put the strut/spacer back in.
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