The front ended up being easier than the rear for me, though the directions implied the rear would be the easy part.
On the front at the bottom of the strut is the strut fork (that spans the CV shaft). Both mine came off pretty well, but before I put them back on, I clamped them in a vise and gently 'spread' them out just a bit - not even noticable to the eye. They went back on the strut super easy, no pounding.
To get the new longer strut mount bolts into the strut top plate (after removing the factory studs), I ovaled out the top plate holes just a little. Don't go crazy, just enough to allow the bolts to seat. You may have to use a dremmel to relieve the actual coil spring right where the bolt head is trying to seat against the top plate. You'd be removing very little material from upper edge of the spring where it meets the rubber, not effecting the spring structurally. (This will make more sense when you're looking at the actual parts - sorry if it's a little vague right now). Once you have all four bolts seated against the top plate, put the spacer over the bolts and lift the strut/spacer into position. Use two people to put the strut back into position if you can.
On the back, the directions tell you to jack up one side of the axle to full compression, allowing the other side of the axle at full droop to release tension on the coil. That was scary, working on a loaded suspension. Didn't like that at all. And it didn't really work. I still had to use the factory jack to push the axle downward even more to get the spacer in. To do it again, I would jack up the jeep
and let the axle hang on its own. Then using the factory scissors type jack, place it between the chassis and axle and 'jack' the axle downward. You will still need to unbolt the upper, drivers side control arm at the axle. I also unbolted the brake caliper because the brake line became a limiting factor. At that point the axle can be manipulated downward enough to get the spacer under the spring.
Contrary to what you may begin to think during install that the rear brake lines will not be long enough or the upper control arm is going to hit the fuel tank at full droop - Once everything is bolted back together, the rear stabilizer bar prohibits the axle from drooping too much. Brake lines will be fine and the control arm won't contact the top of the fuel tank during your off-roading. Below is a picture showing the stabilizer bar hanging the axle, and the brake line with a little slack. That wheel is off the ground.
As for the shocks, I used the washers/bushing combo as outlined in the directions. Top bolt is 75lbs of torque, the bottom is 85, I believe. Much less than that and you'll get the infamous shock clunking a lot of guys have complained about.
I did mine a few months ago, so I may remember something else that made the install easier. If I do, I'll let you know. Good luck!