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Changing Brake pads?

95K views 79 replies 29 participants last post by  XKJeep06 
#1 ·
Has anyone taken on the challenge of changing thier own brake pads? If so any step by step instructions/pics out there.

Thanks in advance
 
#2 ·
Very easy, 20-30 min job, hope this helps.


REMOVAL

1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.
3. Drain small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with clean suction gun.
4. Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts (2).
5. Compress the caliper and remove from the adaptor (4).
6. Secure caliper (1) to nearby suspension part with wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.




7. Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads (4) from the caliper adapter (2).
8. Remove the anti-rattle clips (3) from the brake caliper adapter (2).


INSTALL

1. Remove and clean all rust and debris from the anti-rattle clip mounting surfaces (3) on the brake caliper adapter (2).
2. Install new anti-rattle clips (3) into the caliper adapter (2).
3. Install the inboard and outboard brake pads (4) onto the caliper adapter (2).
4. Install caliper (5) on the caliper adapter (2).




5. Install the caliper slide pin bolts (2) and tighten to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).
6. Install wheel and tire assembly.
7. Remove support and lower vehicle.
8. Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and brake pads are seated and a firm brake pedal is obtained.
9. Fill brake fluid.
 
#7 ·
I changed my brake pads last week, but I let the workshop do it for me as I have no experience for me, it was very very easy and straight forward, next time I will do it myself.

3. Drain small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with clean
They didn't drain any fluid and it worked ok.

I have a question, and maybe more later...Where do you purchase the anti-rattle clips outline in section 2 under "Install" Can you purchase from an auto store or is this something the dealer provides?
I bought MOPAR V-line brakes and they don't come with clips.
 
#4 ·
:bigthumb: You got it, glad to help. :bigthumb:
 
#6 ·
If you don't get them with the pads, (you should) you can re-use the ones you have now.
 
#9 ·
Thanks Romeo! I need to do mine as well. I am trying to see if I can get a place to do it myself. I have the tools, just nowhere to do the work except out on my busy street.
 
#12 ·
If you still need a place and will be close to White Plains, we can take care of your pads, we can do it at my place, maybe if you are going to CT?
 
#10 ·
I'm just curious as to how many miles you guys have on your Commanders that are needing new brake pads. I am approaching 25,000 miles and have only had the Commander just over a year. I checked my pads last week while changing my oil and they look practically brand new still with a lot of pad left.
 
#11 ·
I'm at 52k on the front and are needed. The rear have already been replaced at around 40k.
 
#16 ·
You could reuse it, but I would highly suggest using fresh fluid.
 
#18 ·
How many miles do you hace on your XK? You may not need to replace the rotors yet, but if you do, here you go


FRONT REMOVAL
NOTE: Front rotors and hub/bearings are matched mounted for minimum lateral runout. Before removing the rotor, mark the rotor and hub/bearing to maintain original orientation.


1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.




3. Remove the caliper adapter mounting bolts (3) and remove the caliper adapter from the steering knuckle.
4. Secure caliper anchor assembly to nearby suspension part with a wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.



5. Remove and discard the o-ring (2) securing the disc brake rotor (1) on the hub.
6. Remove the disc brake rotor from hub/bearing.





FRONT INSTALL

1. Install the rotor (1) on hub studs.




2. Install the caliper adapter (1) on the knuckle (2). Install adapter bolts (3) and tighten to 169 N·m (125 ft. lbs.).




NOTE: Caliper slide pins should be free from debris and lightly lubricated.


3. Install the caliper (1) to the caliper adapter (4) and tighten the bolts to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).
4. Gently lift one end of the slide pin boot to equalize air pressure, then release the boot and verify that the boot is fully covering the slide pin.
5. Install wheel and tire assembly.
6. Remove support and lower the vehicle.
7. Pump brake pedal to seat caliper pistons and brake pads. Do not move vehicle until firm brake pedal is obtained.



REAR REMOVAL

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the caliper slide bolts (4).




4. Remove caliper (1).
5. Secure caliper assembly (1) to nearby suspension part with wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.



REAR INSTALL


1. Install rotor on axle studs.




2. Install the caliper assembly.
3. Install caliper slide bolts (4) and tighten to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).




4. Install wheel and tire assembly.
5. Remove support and lower the vehicle.
6. Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and brake shoes are seated.
 
#45 · (Edited)
Rear Brake Rotor / Parking Brake Shoe

Very nice instructions and diagram. Thank you. I had a few problems due to the Rear Rotor/Drum being rusted/frozen in place (it still is).

The parking brake shoe was released by pulling the oval rubber seal on the back of the drum and using the adjuster to loosen the parking brake shoe from the drum in the middle of the rotor - the rotor now rotated, but still wouldn't slide off the hub/nuts.

Tried heat, liquid wrench, hammer, and the back of a large axe - no luck.

I've tried this twice with no success, each time I just replaced the disc pads. Next time it will definitely need a new rotor, so I'm going to also replace the parking brake shoes and find a suitable puller before I start again.

The Rear Rotor is still frozen to the hub/wheel nuts. I'm looking for a puller large enough to pull the rotor off - might fabricate one with a few steel bars and C-Clamps if I can't find a cheap one (saw a 17" puller for
$250 - a last resort for sure).

The front rotors and pads were a breeze.

Tips I've also used:

I opened the master brake fluid reservoir, and used a C-Clamp and the original pad to compress the caliper piston.

Don't forget to close the reservoir cover and pump the brakes when done - or you won't stop when you want to.

My pad mileage: Replaced the rear pads at 40K, uneven wear on one inboard pad (repeated again at 85K). Replaced the front pads and rotors at 70K - still had at least 10K left on them by the amount of pad remaining).

I'd like to hear any other suggestions to get this frozen rear rotor/drum off.

Thank you.
_______________________________________________

2006 Jeep Commander 4WD, 4.7L, Dark Khaki, 86K miles
_______________________________________________

How many miles do you hace on your XK? You may not need to replace the rotors yet, but if you do, here you go


FRONT REMOVAL
NOTE: Front rotors and hub/bearings are matched mounted for minimum lateral runout. Before removing the rotor, mark the rotor and hub/bearing to maintain original orientation.


1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.




3. Remove the caliper adapter mounting bolts (3) and remove the caliper adapter from the steering knuckle.
4. Secure caliper anchor assembly to nearby suspension part with a wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.



5. Remove and discard the o-ring (2) securing the disc brake rotor (1) on the hub.
6. Remove the disc brake rotor from hub/bearing.





FRONT INSTALL

1. Install the rotor (1) on hub studs.




2. Install the caliper adapter (1) on the knuckle (2). Install adapter bolts (3) and tighten to 169 N·m (125 ft. lbs.).




NOTE: Caliper slide pins should be free from debris and lightly lubricated.


3. Install the caliper (1) to the caliper adapter (4) and tighten the bolts to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).
4. Gently lift one end of the slide pin boot to equalize air pressure, then release the boot and verify that the boot is fully covering the slide pin.
5. Install wheel and tire assembly.
6. Remove support and lower the vehicle.
7. Pump brake pedal to seat caliper pistons and brake pads. Do not move vehicle until firm brake pedal is obtained.



REAR REMOVAL

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the caliper slide bolts (4).




4. Remove caliper (1).
5. Secure caliper assembly (1) to nearby suspension part with wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.



REAR INSTALL


1. Install rotor on axle studs.




2. Install the caliper assembly.
3. Install caliper slide bolts (4) and tighten to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).




4. Install wheel and tire assembly.
5. Remove support and lower the vehicle.
6. Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and brake shoes are seated.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I always take the opportunity when changing the front brakepads to change the brake fluid, is usually around 2 years anyhow. Over time the fluid absorbs moisture, and turns bad (brown) a good flush every 2 years will eliminate the spooge, keep the seals and valves and I imagine the ABS system working better. I havent tried it on the Commander yet, but will eventually.

I like performance friction brand pads usually. If they are not available, Bendix.

Oh, and as far as topping off brake fluid, definately use FRESH (as in new, just opened), and make sure you use the right type.
 
#22 ·
Hey deadboi77, where you been?
 
#26 ·
If I remember right, they are 18mm
 
#29 ·
if you are a novice, I do not recommend changing out your brake fluid.......if your ABS pumped looses it prime you'll be up chit creek..........

You should NOT have to remove brake fluid hwne pressing back the pistons....................in fact you should never add nor remove brake fluid if the system remains sealed and there is no leak.

A low level brake fluid only tells the owner that the pads are low..............it does NOT tell you to add more fluid.

When you replace the pads and push the piston back, the fluid comes right back up to where it belongs.

Newer DOTs do not atract water like the old DOT 2 and DOT 3............full synth brake fluid is recommended such as DOT 4 and 5
 
#30 ·
Um,
I,m gonna have to disagree on a couple of points here.

1. Regardless of DOT#, with the exception of DOT-5, All glycol based brake fluids are hydroscopic and have the same affinity for moisture.
Over the years the DOT #s have gotten higher and strictly relate to boil point.
2. DOT-5 is a silicone brake fluid. It does not absorb moisture. Instead, if any moisture is in the ststem, it will be suspended.
The downside of silicone brake fluid is it is slightly compressable, and will not provide as firm a brake pedal as glycol based fluids.
3. The reason to flush brake fluid every other year is to restore it back to its designed boil point. As the fluid absorbs moisture, the boil point gets closer and closer to the boiling point of water. Also, by removing the moisture you insure against internal corrosion.
4. The ideal method to push the pistons back into the caliper involves, Clamping the flex hose with a flex hose clamp, and then opening the bleeder.
Then, push pistons back.
This prevents the chit, (R/Ts term) from being run backwards through the ABS unit.
I have come to the conclusion, the factory seems to think we're putting brakes on a new car because they never mention this step.
5. To correctly flush brake fluid, a tool called a Vacula is the prescribed method.
This operates off of compressed air, and draws vacuum from each bleeder port.
With air valve on, open bleeder and just add fluid to master as it is drawn down.
Continue till fluid runs clear at vacuun bleeder.
This is the same tool and method that was performed on the assembly line.
The vacula is generally found at Snap-On/ Mac / Matco, and at some of the bigger Sears tool outlets.

Hope that was useful,
Rob
 
#31 ·
i 100% agree.................but i think we disagree on the fact that I would rather not see Joe-non-mechanic playing around with this stuff and then calling me all frustrated.

Over the last 2+ years I've been selling performance stuff to people and I constantly have to weigh what I am comfortable with these guys doing and what I'm not...........

Having done so much of this work, even the better guys get burned by getting air in the system and going thru 2 or 3 bottles of fluid trying to get it right............

THen consider that none of us have mentioned that brake fluid will eat paint right off your $35K SUV...........I can't wait to get that call, "WHY DIDN'T YOU TELL ME!"

call me shell-shocked..........but relying on my risk-management "best case vs worst case" matrix, I am more scared of dudes playing around with brake fluid vs any possible harm "brake fluid doo-doo" might do to a system.

However from the eyes of a capable persons perspective (in other words, in a vacuum) I 100% agree on all levels.

Back when we were doing SCCA stuff, we used high dollar brake fluid with a boiling point of something like 1000* F and changed out fluid after every weekend race (once a month).............but to be honost, with all the cars/trucks I've owned and all the motors and crap I've played with, I don't think I've EVER changed out my brake fluid in anything I daily drove and have never had a mechanical failure due to it................and thats the perspective I'm sharing.
 
#33 ·
Well, I take the tack of providing in depth answers for a reason.
At some point, I have to believe the reader has some ability.
With that in mind, a in depth answer MAY stop the reader from continueing his vision of taking on a project, if he now understands it may be beyond his/her capabilities.
Now, if I was responding to kids, things would be different.
But, these members are enthusiasts and by reading posts,I see a rather high degree of capability, and the willingness to ask for further assistance.
So, R/T, I think the forum deserves the most indepth response we can give so they don't harm themselves or their equipment

Rob
 
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