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Front Left ginding at start up

8K views 38 replies 5 participants last post by  drm4633 
#1 ·
Window Message: Service 4 Wheel Drive

Dashboard Indicator Lights On: ABS - Traction Control - ESP/BAS.

Drive train `clunks' when first starting out; definite grinding/crunching when wheels turned far left when turning around. Once on the road, everything works smoothly, but all Dashboard Indicator Lights stay on. Also; Cruise Control stopped working when all this began.

Possible causes for all this?

Thanx, Clovis
 
#2 · (Edited)
Window Message: Service 4 Wheel Drive

Dashboard Indicator Lights On: ABS - Traction Control - ESP/BAS.



Drive train `clunks' when first starting out; definite grinding/crunching when wheels turned far left when turning around. Once on the road, everything works smoothly. Also; Cruise Control stopped working.



Possible causes for all this?


Thanx, Clovis
It is most likely a bad wheel speed sensor. Check for codes. It's an easy fix.
 
#5 ·
Did you check for codes? If so what code(s) did you get?:
 
#6 ·
I would like someone to reply to my earlier questions about my Jeep Commander LTD 5.7Ltr Hemi and the problems I listed. One reply said my prob is probably a `wheel speed sensor."


Former message:
Window Message: Service 4 Wheel Drive

Dashboard Indicator Lights On: ABS - Traction Control - ESP/BAS.

Drive train `clunks' when first starting out; definite grinding/crunching when wheels turned far left when turning around. Once on the road, everything works smoothly, but all Dashboard Indicator Lights stay on. Also; Cruise Control stopped working when all this began.

Possible causes for all this?

Thanx, Clovis
 
#7 ·
@CAdvoc, I answered you with the possible wheel speed sensor. Then I asked you for any codes that you were getting but you did not respond. The codes will tell for sure if it is a wheel speed sensor.
 
#8 ·
Having trouble using this app - sorry!


I have no way of checking for `codes,' so can't help you other than with the dashboard info I posted above...
Also:
Can you give me an estimate on:
Cost of a new wheel sensor?
Cost for labor to install the sensor?


And do you know of a reputable Jeep service center near Lakehills, TX?


Thanks,
Clovis
 
#9 ·
Having trouble using this app - sorry!
I have no way of checking for `codes,' so can't help you other than with the dashboard info I posted above...
You need to know for sure what you are dealing with. To check for codes turn the key to the "On" position rapidly 3 times in a row. DO NOT start the engine. The codes will show in the dash. Alternatively, you can go to Auto Zone, Advance Auto, or O'Reilly's and they will check for codes for free. Let us know what turns up.
 
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#10 ·
grinding solution

Hi Clovis-


If your description of "grinding" is similar to the binding/jerking feeling that I was getting from my front end.. then the solution is replacing the "Solenoid" that connects in the front transfer case. The best description I came up with is it felt like driving an older 4x4 in tight turns with axle lock.


Here's what my experience was: When starting the Jeep cold in the morning, it would bind/jerk the front wheels when backing out of garage and turning. Didn't notice anything when going straight. Also, after 5 minutes of driving it wouldn't do it when turning anymore. This made it difficult for the jeep dealer to diagnose as I'd drive it in and then try and show the tech what was happening and it wouldn't do it.


What happens is that solenoid is stuck when the fluid in the transfer case is cold. It doesn't allow the front axle to turn independent of the rear so you get the axle jerking feeling. Once the fluid warms up in the transfer case the solenoid works properly and you can turn without issue.


My jeep dealer replaced an axle half shaft (not sure it was necessary) which didn't fix it. Then they flushed and replaced the diff fluid in the transfer case (again likely not necessary) and it didn't fix it.


I took it to another shop after doing some research online and shared the article below. They agreed and said the solenoid is generally their "go to" first.

I can't link the article. google "jeep commander binding" and read the article titled Jeep T-Case Problem? Check the Axles


Hope this helps.
 
#11 ·
TY very much. Turning the Key to the `ON' position 3 times rapidly resulted in the CODE -

DTC REPORT
U 1417


What does this tell us?


Again, Thanks for your help!! Covis
 
#12 · (Edited)
TY very much. Turning the Key to the `ON' position 3 times rapidly resulted in the CODE -

DTC REPORT
U 1417


What does this tell us?

Again, Thanks for your help!! Covis
Clovis; based on the below information, I'd guess that the issue is with one of your wheel speed sensors on the left;

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/u1417-code-help-1296247/

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/sto...le-left-wheel-distance-signal-received-68783/


Hi All:

I have been following all the U1417 and ABS threads and just wanted to close the loop on my experience. I had the 3 dash lights come on last week and had a local, national chain parts store read my codes. They told me U1417 and no other codes or data was available. I put on a left front speed sensor which did not fix the problem. I then decided I am too good of a mechanic to just throw parts at a problem. I had it scanned at a local computer diagnostics business. AS soon as we started to back out of the garage the scanner displayed speed signals from every wheel except the left rear. A $17.00 sensor and 30 min, good as new. The lights went out on the dash with no more than 10 feet of backing up. Cruise Control works again.

Thanks for the great forum

Chad
U1417-IMPLAUSIBLE LEFT WHEEL DISTANCE SIGNAL RECEIVED

When Monitored:

Ignition on.

Set Condition:

The PCM gets an implausible signal over the CAN C circuit from the ABS Module. The circuit is continuously monitored. One Trip fault.

Possible Causes

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR FAULT ACTIVE IN ANTI-LOCK BRAKE MODULE

CAN C BUS CIRCUIT SHORTED

CAN C BUS CIRCUIT OPEN

ABS MODULE

POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
 
#13 ·
Thanx for all the info on the `grinding,' GR? Is that what you go by? I've had 2-3 responses to all the dashboard signals and driving with the grinding in the left front. Along with all the dashboard signal lights - ABS, ESP. BAS, Traction Control, I'm also getting a SERVEICE4 WHEEL DRIVE message. I was wondering something else if you can explain:
When we travel in our 42 ft. coach, we tow the Commander due to ease of shifting transfer case into neutral. The solanoid let go on us 5-6 years ago and had to install a new one. This "SERVICE 4 WHEEL DRIVE" was the message we were getting at the time. I wonder if I'm dealing with interconnecting issues, or possibly two different issues. Any thoughts on this? Clovis
 
#14 · (Edited)
Thanx for all the info on the `grinding,' GR? Is that what you go by? I've had 2-3 responses to all the dashboard signals and driving with the grinding in the left front. Along with all the dashboard signal lights - ABS, ESP. BAS, Traction Control, I'm also getting a SERVEICE4 WHEEL DRIVE message. I was wondering something else if you can explain:
When we travel in our 42 ft. coach, we tow the Commander due to ease of shifting transfer case into neutral. The solanoid let go on us 5-6 years ago and had to install a new one. This "SERVICE 4 WHEEL DRIVE" was the message we were getting at the time. I wonder if I'm dealing with interconnecting issues, or possibly two different issues. Any thoughts on this? Clovis
My thoughts - Get your bad wheel speed sensor straightened out first, because that's a known issue;

Once that's fixed, then you can investigate your service 4WD system issue, assuming that it's still present after you replace your bad wheel speed sensor;

If it is, it can be any number of things - you're not going to troubleshoot that problem definitively on the internet, because there are too many possibilities; It could be that your FDCM (Final Drive Control Module) needs to be re-flashed, or, it could be that the actuator motor on your transfer case is bad & needs to be replaced.

The bottom line is once you fix your bad wheel speed sensor, GO to the dealership, have them read your codes, and check out what the possible causes are - I gave you two likely causes, but it could be something else.
 
#16 ·
#17 ·
Dear GRCommande:
Thanx for all your info; I will keep it in mind or anything of this sort in the future. However; I was advised that my ABS, Traction Control, other lights on the Dash along with Service 4W Drive, were probably due to a bad Wheel Speed Sensor and to check for CODES on the dash by turning the Key to the `ON' position 3 times rapidly w/o starting and the Code would pop up in the message window. I did this and the Fault Code `U1417' popped up which when checked, said I had a bad Wheel Speed Sensor on the Driver's Side (LEFT), but didn't say which - front or back - Speed Sensor was bad. When checked at Take-5 in Boerne, TX, we found both front and back Wheel Speed Sensors were bad and replaced.


I also learned that the `crunching' sound and `clunck' when first starting out was due to the gears not `meshing' properly in the Transfer Case. So, drained and replaced Transfer Case fluid. We also noticed the bottom cover plate on the Transmission was `seeping,' so removed, scraped all surfaces clean, installed new Seal. Also found that when I had my Trans Fluid change at 100K miles, shop had `over-filled!' :-/ So, replaced fluid as well. When we drove home, it was like driving a NEW Car! Everything `tight' and responsive; dash idiot lights all out; no Service 4W Drive message, etc. Now, if only we could stop the roof from leaking onto the front floors!!



Yes, I've seen the very helpful video on YouTube of the Jeep owner who shows how to do this; only problem at my age (75) I'm not always `flexible' enough physically to get into some of those positions :) But, I'll tackle it one day.


I appreciate all the help so many, along with you, GRCommande have provided and look forward to helping others in the future.


Kindest regards, Clovis --------- Galatians 6:2
 
#18 · (Edited)
I also learned that the `crunching' sound and `clunck' when first starting out was due to the gears not `meshing' properly in the Transfer Case. So, drained and replaced Transfer Case fluid. We also noticed the bottom cover plate on the Transmission was `seeping,' so removed, scraped all surfaces clean, installed new Seal.
I hope you only put the RTV on the transmission pan to seal it and not a gasket. It comes without a gasket from the factory and is not supposed to have one. I was told this just yesterday by a certified Jeep technician when I asked him about mine leaking. He told me if you put a gasket on the 545RFE (that is the trans on a HEMI) transmission pan that it is guaranteed to leak. He said to only use the RTV that is made for transmissions. And I'm glad the info I gave you about your wheel speed sensor was correct.

.
 
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#20 ·
Big Blue & jeep 5253;
I'll call Take-5 and ask if they did, in fact, put a new gasket on to seal the bottom plate on the transmission, or RTV. We'll go from there.


Thank you both, Clovis
 
#21 ·
Big Blue & jeep 5253;
I'll call Take-5 and ask if they did, in fact, put a new gasket on to seal the bottom plate on the transmission, or RTV. We'll go from there.


Thank you both, Clovis
No problem Clovis, let us know what you find out.
 
#23 ·
GRCommande:
Thanx for all your good counel. I suspect you've read the results of my experience. If not, to cap it off; I had the wheel speed sensors on the driver's side replace - both bad. I also had the transfer case oil drained and new added - this I believe was causing the `bumping, grinding' of the front end at startup due to the gears not meshing smoothly. I did have a SERVICE 4WD pop up on my dash some time back. With this all taken care of, all the warning lights on the dash, including the SERVICE 4WD message all went away and the Commander is driving like new. So, thanx much for your time and counsel. Regards, Clovis :)
 
#24 ·
Hello Big Blue:
This past Monday had engine oil changed (added RoyalPurple synthetic oil added), filter and had them lube lower front ball joints (are those the ONLY lube points on the entire chassis?). Had PCV Valve replaced. And to answer your concern about the sealant for the lower plate on the transmission: I asked the mechanic what he used. He replied, "I used both a gasket and the sealant/caulking(?) because you have to wiggle the place to get it back on and somtimes the gasket will tear. By using the RTV as well, it ensures against any leaking." I asked him to check the bottom plate on Monday and he said there's no `weeping.' Any thoughts? Regards, Clovis
 
#27 ·
Clovis;

If it is not visibly leaking transmission fluid, I would not be overly concerned about it. If there was a leak, you'd almost certainly see the fluid on the ground - that's what happened to me 2 - 2 1/2 years ago, when I had my transmission fluid changed; I noticed it the same evening that the work was done and took it back the next day.

Just keep an eye on it for the next few days; As long as you don't find any tranny fluid on the ground when you've been parked for a while - or even parked overnight, I'd call it good.
 
#26 ·
Question:
I'm getting 12.3 - 12.7 mpg. with my 5.7 HEMI. I remember when I got it 9 yrs. ago, I was getting 13.8 - 14 mpg? Anything I can do to improve this? New oil/filter/lube/air filter/PVC Valve - no change. Although we `do' drive 60 mi. round trips on highway (@ 50-55 mph) for grocery shopping, we do a lot of stop 'n go with so much traffic in the suburban and Hill Country areas of San Antonio, TX.
 
#31 ·
I'll keep an eye on that bottom plate for the transmission to ensure it's not leakng.


Another concern: I'm only getting 12.4-12.7 mpg with my 5.7 HEMI. I was got 13.8-14.0 mpg when I first got my XK 9 years ago. Complete tune-up at 100K, or 25K back. Just installed new airfilter. Any thoughts on improving my mph?


Clovis
 
#32 ·
Can't help you there. You are getting better mpg than I am.

.
 
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