Wow - everything seems to be all over the board on pricing, oils, etc. I need to do my 30K and am looking for a good source for the axle fluid, transfer case fluid and transmission fluid. The dealer is out of their mind. They want $60 a quart???? Give me a break. This is the old Somerset dealer in Troy MI. Closed the sales office but the service area is open. The guys seemed clueless.
Does anyone have the part number for the axle fluid?
Looking for a good online source for fluids. Also trying to figure out if I have the limited slip to see if I really need the additive. I kind of doubt it but bought my 06 Commander used and it did not have a manual. Its a 4.7 with the tow package. Is there any obvious parts that I can spot to tell me?
Are you sure that info is correct. There is no way they are selling fluid for $60 a quart. You might want to try a different dealer. For the differential fluid use 75W140 synthetic gear oil. I recommend Mobil 1.
You porbablly dont have the front and rear limited slip differentials as you have the 4.7 liter. It is possible but they arent as common. It would say QUADRA DRIVE II just below the gear shifter if you did have the limited slip differentials.
The M1 is $18 per quart at Pep Boys, although I'm sure it can be found for less online. Along with the gasket and friction modifier, you're pushing $100 just for the DIY differential fluid change.
All models, all axles:
Mopar® SAE 75W-140 Synthetic (API-GL5)
Mopar p/n 04874469 (MSRP $30.00)
*NOTE: Electronic (ELSD) axles require 118 ml (4 ounces) of Limited Slip Additive be added to the lubricant. ELSD axles are standard with Quadra-Drive II.
SRT8 models DO NOT require Limited Slip Additive.
Front and rear axle drain plug torque: 44 ft. lbs/60 N·m
Front axle cover bolts: 41 ft. lbs/56 N·m
Rear axle cover bolts: 30 ft. lbs/41 N·m
Thanks. Don't see any badge about the Quadra drive but will have a different dealer confrim. Heard good things about Royal Purple 75W-140. But trying to confirm if I need to bother with additional additive. Anyone else looked at this?
Im actually running Royal Purple in my front differential and Mobil 1 in the rear. I had a freek accident and had no choice but to fill the front up with Royal Purple at that time as no one had Mobil 1 in stock. Ill be swapping it out soon and changing back to Mobil 1 in the front. Ill let you know how the Royal Purple looks when I drain it out.
Nope it wont hurt anything. Most fully synthetic gear oils already have friction additive in them. But the dealer wants you to add 4 oz. of friction additive anyways depending on what 4wd system you have.
OK. Thanks for all the help. I finally got everything straightened out. Ended up using Royal Purple 75W-140 (3-1/2qts total) ($18qt - Murrays Auto) in both axles. I do not have a limited slip but even if I did I was able to confirm with the RP folks that the additive is already included. Wasting money to add more. Original dealer was probably confused about the oil price.
Bought the NV245/247 transfer case fluid from the dealer for $12/qt. Used slightly under 2 qts. Took a little time to find the 14MM hex for the front axle - you also need a 10mm hex for the transfer case. Not a bad job just kind of messy. May buy a little pump that you use a drill with next time to move fluids.
Next project is the transmission. Need to check around and see if its really necessary to flush the trans or just drop the pan and replace the filter. Dealer told me $250 which seems pricey.
There are no manufacturers that recommend flushing of the trans, or engine for that matter.
Even though dropping the pan changes only 4 to 5 qts. (total, dry fill about 10 qts.) the manufacturer and oil companies agree that is enouph fluid to re-new the detergent and other properties of the remaining fluid.
The concern is the flushing process can potentially dislodge debris that would normally remain trapped were it is. That debris could then work its way into the valve body or other precision clearanced area and actually cause a failure.
The reality is, if you service (oil changes, filters etc.) all the internally lubricated components in a timely and mileage specific manor, there will never be any debris that would require flushing, be it engine, trans, transfer case or final drives.
Some have seen trans flushing machines with manufacturer paint jobs.
These are for flushing the trans coolers and lines after a catastriphic internal trans failure and were never intended to be a maintenence tool.
Dealers have found a new way to make you believe you are protecting your investment when in fact, they are protecting theirs.
There are no manufacturers that recommend flushing of the trans, or engine for that matter.
Even though dropping the pan changes only 4 to 5 qts. (total, dry fill about 10 qts.) the manufacturer and oil companies agree that is enouph fluid to re-new the detergent and other properties of the remaining fluid.
The concern is the flushing process can potentially dislodge debris that would normally remain trapped were it is. That debris could then work its way into the valve body or other precision clearanced area and actually cause a failure.
The reality is, if you service (oil changes, filters etc.) all the internally lubricated components in a timely and mileage specific manor, there will never be any debris that would require flushing, be it engine, trans, transfer case or final drives.
Some have seen trans flushing machines with manufacturer paint jobs.
These are for flushing the trans coolers and lines after a catastriphic internal trans failure and were never intended to be a maintenence tool.
Dealers have found a new way to make you believe you are protecting your investment when in fact, they are protecting theirs.
All these products are recommended replacement for the Mopar oils, I am of the opinion, based on research and conversation with the Amsoil rep, that these products are exact duplicates of the Mopar stuff.
This is exactly what I just switched to this past week! I didn't pay as much though altogether with shipping my bill was 123.00. Also you will need a 14MM Hex Socket (31.00 from Snap-on guy) for the front diff. (on QT 2) models, and a 3/8 hex for the T-Case...this is a much improved set up over the factory oils which require 30,000 mile intervals, as to with amsoil it is 100,000 mile intervals. I will not run it for that long though, 75,000 will be sufficiant enough. I will be switching everything over to ams here very soon...
1. Put a oil pan under the rear differential.
2. Loosen the 10 bolts that hold the diff cover on and let the gear oil drain in the pan. (If you have QD II there will be 12 bolts).
3. Once gear oil is completely drained, remove the differential cover.
4. Clean all of the gasket sealer off of the diff cover and where the diff cover mates to the axle (use a scraper and brake cleaner if needed......brake cleaner wont harm the differential)
5. Make sure all fluid is out of axle.
6. Put the diff cover back on using gasket maker or RTV (I prefer permatex the right stuff gasket maker)
7. Tighten the diff cover bolts to spec
8. Refill the diff with gear oil and fricrtion additive to proper level stated in owners manual
When removing the rear diff cover leave the top two bolts in a couple of turns and use a rubber mallet to tap the cover loose, the bolts will stop it from falling into the drain pan. If you try to remove it by prying with a screwdriver you could bend the cover and cause a faulty reseal.
I am in the middle of changing the diff fluids now, and it looks like an open differential to me. I don't see the mysterious viscous coupler some members have been told about.:icon_confused:
I'm changing to Amsoil anyhow, so I'll be adding the friction modifier regardless.
I am in the middle of changing the diff fluids now, and it looks like your typical LS rear end to me. I don't see the mysterious viscous coupler some members have been told about.:icon_confused:
I'm changing to Amsoil anyhow, so I'll be adding the friction modifier regardless.
The dealer I went to when I lived in MD also stated that you need to use friction modifier in the rear differential due to some viscous coupler. I've had the rear cover off several times and see nothing but normal spider gears. Im not sure what you mean when you said it looks like a typical Limited Slip rear end. Anyways, I stopped adding friction modifier a while ago. Spider gears dont need limited slip friction modifier. Even if we did for some reason for this mysterious viscous coupler the M1 oil I use has friction modifier already inside.
Transfer Case (3.7L Engines)
Mopar® ATF+4 Automatic Transmission Fluid
Transfer Case (4.7L/5.7L Engines)
Mopar® NV 247/245 Transfer Case Lubricant
Axle Differential (Front-Rear)
Mopar® Synthetic Gear & Axle Lubricant SAE 75W-140 (API-GL5) or equivalent with friction modifier additive.
Brake Master Cylinder
Mopar® DOT 3 Brake Fluid, SAE J1703 should be used. If DOT 3, SAE J1703 brake fluid is not available, then DOT 4 is acceptable. Use only recommended brake fluids.
Power Steering Reservoir
This system requires the use of Mopar® Hydraulic System Power Steering Fluid (P/N 05142893AA) or equivalent, which meets DaimlerChrysler Material Standard MS-10838.
Well that makes no sense. Why would the front axle need it unless it has the ELSD's. Possibly the rear on a QT II because of that mysterrious viscous coupler that there talking about that I have never seen before.
I agree I found it weird that an open diff and a ELSD diff both took the same. No distinction in the service manual between any of the 4 drive systems. So QT1,QT2,QD2, and 2WD all take the same diff fluid. I'll keep digging threw it and see if I can find anything else
I just spoke with a tech at the dealer I started going to since I moved to NY from MD and he said that friction modifier is only needed in vehicles equiped with QD II. As long as my dealer says its not needed then im not going to worry about adding it.
Well im not sure if that really clears anything up because the dealer I bought the XK from in MD said you had to put friction modifier in the rear axle due to the viscous coupler. Since the dealer I go to now in NY says it doesnt need it im not going to waste my money. So I guess it all depends on the dealer. In the end, if your dealer does say you need it and you dont use it they will probablly void the warranty if something were to break. Even if it had nothing to do with not having the modifier.
This was just posted today in another thread by clrizz:
Got the word from the horses mouth today. I sent an email to chrysler.com yesterday regarding the friction modifier additive, and here is the response...
Dear Chris:
Thank you for contacting the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center
regarding the rear differential for your 2006 Jeep Commander.
According to our records, your vehicle was equipped from the factory
with a conventional rear differential. This type of differential does
not require the use of a friction modifier.
Chrysler recommends using Mopar synthetic gear lubricant SAE 75W-140.
Thanks again for your email.
Sincerely,
Joe
Customer Service Representative
Chrysler Customer Assistance Center
So the dealer I spoke to, once again, is WRONG!!
I changed the diff fluids yesterday, and it looked like an open diff to me. I am accepting this as the final answer for my JC.
So I was under the Jeep finishing the diff. fluid changes and slid over to the transfer case to see if I wanted to tackle that tonight or tomorrow and can't figure out the function of part of the t-case (NV140). Looking at the case from the gas tank's perspective, there is a rusty cylindrical cap sandwiching some rubber bushing, all held on by 4 small, outwardly placed bolts. While it is in line with the front drive shaft (though on the opposite side of the case) there is no apparent connection between the two. Can someone please tell me what this is, what it does, and what will happen if I take it off?
I think what you are referring to is a vibration dampener, I noticed this when I wanted to identify the transfer case. The tag is bolted directly under the dampener, and also tends to get in the way of using a ratchet on the drain plug.
Not sure about removing it though, but I'd say leave well enough alone.
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