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Wiring gremlins

6K views 11 replies 3 participants last post by  Big Blue 
#1 ·
Don't know if this is the right area or not but here's my issue.. been driving the jeep less these days like once a week maybe and always at day. Well tonight I decided to take it out and noticed that my hvac lights and lights for my shifter are out.. more looking my running light/ park lights are on passenger side are out too.. checked the fuse under the hood for the park lights for right side and it was burnt. Put a new fuse in and soon as I hit the lights it popped that fuse.. pulled both the rear bulbs on the passenger side as well as the front aND tried again but blew that fuse as well.. I hate chasing wiring issues but wondering if anyone has ideas? My goal tomorrow is going to chase wires at the back and check trailer wiring even though it's on its own circuit. Driver's lights work fine and lights for the power window switches and homelink work it's only the hvac and all the lights for the info center along with the lights for the rear heat aND town haul don't work as well
 
#2 ·
It is annoying, but you may have a wire that has rubbed a bit and the insulation came off. I bet it is grounding out in the back near the frame, possibly the wires are on a corner?

I had this on my Cherokee and I found the bugger was on the trailer wiring that came from the bumper back into the interior and had rubbed on the corner of the body seam over the years and finally made contact. It was intermittent and annoying to find.

I would physically move all the wiring around back there and see if that makes it stop. If it does, then you more than likely have an exposed wire back there.

You may be able to google some of the wiring diagrams and trace which grounds are interconnected to the lighting and which power feeds may cause that fuze to pop when grounded to give you a better idea of which wire loom it is.

Dave
 
#4 · (Edited)
One wiring issue I had was there was a positive wire running from trailer wiring harness signal converter to the battery that had a couple of frays in it under the chassis where I am assuming the dealership must have pinched it with the lift while working on my XK.

There was still power going to the signal converter but that frayed wire would short out against the chassis once in a while and the fuse would obviously blow when this happened.

Not only was I blowing fuses once in a while, it also caused me to have to replace the signal converter twice in two years.

Once I found that bad wire and cut out the pinched/frayed section of it and spliced in a new piece of wire, no more blown fuses and now that it's repaired, I'm hoping that this signal converter will last me more than a year.
 
#5 ·
So 3 hours of checking wiring loom from front to back and checking every other fuse I found nothing that rubbed thru the loom anywhere. After everything I pulled all the bulbs on the passenger side then changed fuse checked and they all worked until I fired up then popped the fuse.. so next step I guess I'm going to pull the front and back wiring out as much as I can then physically pull the wiring out of the loom and inspect I guess.. such a nightmare wiring is not my niche

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#9 ·
Well after using the power probe ect2000 it took me all of 3 mins to hook it up and pin point my wiring issue to the small harness on the passenger front lights.. it's got a plug at the frame rail then after pulling the headlight the small 15 inch section comes right out.. now to get the tape off it and figure out why

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#12 ·
I had a similar issue with the Tail light harness on my driver's side.

One of the small side running light's socket contacts seemed to get pretty corroded - I'm guessing from condensation.

I just ordered that whole plug-in tail light wiring harness which had all of the sockets for the entire tail light and just replaced the whole thing - I think it was about $78.00 for the harness if I remember correctly.
 
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