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I just did a motor swap at 141,000 miles after the valve seats dropped and ruined my Hemi. I now had the intermittent starting problem that I did not have before. I cut back the yellow wire and replaced the female end. Still have the problem. Any ideas? I have one connection that I don’t have hooked up, can’t seem to find where this plug goes. Any help?
 

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I just did a motor swap at 141,000 miles after the valve seats dropped and ruined my Hemi. I now had the intermittent starting problem that I did not have before. I cut back the yellow wire and replaced the female end. Still have the problem. Any ideas? I have one connection that I don’t have hooked up, can’t seem to find where this plug goes. Any help?
@Csykes309;

I've said many times - I'm no mechanic and I do not have a Hemi.

The first question I would ask you in an effort to try and help is - Where is that connection that is not hooked up originating from?
 

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Where abouts is that plug? Can you trace it to its other end?
Is there a cable plugged in the back of the ignition switch? - there is a cable to the ignition switch from the trans or shifter see this picture.
 

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OK figured out your picture is inside the engine bay by the steering shaft. Looks like an injector plug. Take off the engine cover and there should be 3 others on that side that look just like it, probably for the back cylinder on driver side.
 

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I just did a motor swap at 141,000 miles after the valve seats dropped and ruined my Hemi. I now had the intermittent starting problem that I did not have before. I cut back the yellow wire and replaced the female end. Still have the problem. Any ideas? I have one connection that I don’t have hooked up, can’t seem to find where this plug goes. Any help?
Yellow wire ? Where is the yellow wire. When it doesn't start does it crank and not fire? or doesn't crank?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Drivers side near firewall, close to steering column. 4 pin plug and I don’t see where it should hook up to. ( green wires) I was thinking maybe it was for an option I don’t have.


The yellow wire I was referring to goes to the starter solenoid. I get a clicking when turning the key, but no start. I know it is not the starter because I can start the engine by bypassing the starter relay. Something in the cpu is not Allowing the engine to start every time. The problem is intermittent. All cylinders are firing so I know the unhooked connection with green wires is not for the ignition system. I have seen many posts where people had problems with a corroded yellow wire in the starter solenoid. I replaced the connector ( yellow starter wire) and it did not fix the problem. Some say to replace entire wire up to he harness due to corrosion. That is my next step.

I was just wondering if anyone had any wiring knowledge of the plug I posted with the green wires near the steering column in the engine bay behind the front left tire.


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OK figured out your picture is inside the engine bay by the steering shaft. Looks like an injector plug. Take off the engine cover and there should be 3 others on that side that look just like it, probably for the back cylinder on driver side.

The injector plug is only 2 pins, this one has 4. I have 2 commanders so I am going to take the other one apart this weekend and see what that one has. Both are Hemi Limited so they should be the same. Thanks for all then quick responses. Don’t know if anyone else has had a valve seat drop on a 4x4 but replacing the long block was a bunch of $. Word of warning, do not run a gen III Hemi (03-08) hot or you will have a problem like I had. Bad engineering on the top end of that motor. You can bullet proof the motor for a few grand, well worth it in my opinion. If you hear the Hemi Tick , don’t drive it very far.


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How about the range sensor? When this happens, will it crank if you shift it into neutral?

Also, you where is the click coming from? Starter or the relay block?
 

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If it's coming from the starter itself, you might have a loose ground to the engine, which is possible being you just had the engine swapped out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That could be, checked the grounds and they are all good. The click comes from the starter. I took off the cap on the starter relay and if I hit the plunger and close the circuit manually in the relay, the starter turns the engine over. This leads me to believe the problem is before the relay somewhere, or the cpu doesn’t like to voltage or impedance in the system. That takes me back to corrosion on the yellow starter wire.


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I was having intermittent click at the starter. I had read something about the ignition switch recall only replaced the tumbler but the actual electric box that is the "switch" stayed. I changed this out and have not had a problem since.

Food for thought. The switch was $35+-. There is a good YT video on how to do it.

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If the starter is clicking then it likely is a bad starter, connection to the starter, or bad power or ground to the starter. You said you checked all the grounds but did you check the main one to the engine? I think it's on the bellhousing itself, kind of hard to get at.
 

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Did a thorough search of my 06 Hemi Limited - no 4 wire plugs - green or not - only 4 wire plugs were square. One square one to the master cylinder. another way up front - no green in either. Only plugs shaped like that one were 2 wire to the injectors and Coil overs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks, I am going to purchase a tech book on the Commander. I will check the wiring diagrams on that. Master cylinder is plugged in. Knock sensors are plugged in too.


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Discussion Starter #17
Rblapham

If you look at Fig 23 Engine, there is a plug labeled C112. (5.7 Hemi) It is right in front of the left front Oxygen Sensor. Does the book tell you what that plus in for? I am not very good at all of this electrical stuff, Is there a legend that tells what the C and S numbers are for?
 

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C112 is a 2 wide by 3 pin connector
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Found a local mechanic that has a device called an Amp Hound. Tested the Amps and they were low. All of my grounds were secure and properly cleaned, we checked them twice. Mechanic advised to add a ground from the engine to the frame. Utilizing a set of jumper cables we grounded the engine to the frame using. Engine started without a problem and the Amps were back up. Installed a new ground and the intermittent starting problem has been resolved. I am not sure why a rebuilt motor caused this, but I am happily back on the road. Thanks for all the help.


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Found a local mechanic that has a device called an Amp Hound. Tested the Amps and they were low. All of my grounds were secure and properly cleaned, we checked them twice. Mechanic advised to add a ground from the engine to the frame. Utilizing a set of jumper cables we grounded the engine to the frame using. Engine started without a problem and the Amps were back up. Installed a new ground and the intermittent starting problem has been resolved. I am not sure why a rebuilt motor caused this, but I am happily back on the road. Thanks for all the help.


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So ultimately the ground from your engine block to the frame/chassis was the cause of your starter problem.

Interesting - but not totally surprising; The factory block was grounded to the frame/chassis during assembly which was 11 + years ago - if whoever installed your rebuilt engine, tried to reuse the old ground cable - or did not take the time to make sure that the area where the grounding bolt makes contact to the frame/chassis was properly cleaned with a wire brush - or did not ensure that the ground contact area on the frame/chassis was properly scraped and wire-brushed down to the bare metal, as it should have been before it was mounted, it's not hard to see how something like this could happen. The low amp reading your mechanic found are an indication that whoever did the install might have not paid particularly close attention to those details.
 
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