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Why's that?
 

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I read through the feedback section for this seller and found that there were many CJ and GC owners that left all positive feedback. I don't know what could be wrong with these spacers...anyone? Ferris?
 

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OK, I will be the first to say that I would not use them because of the double holes for attaching it to the hub. The set of holes that are centered might be ok, but the ones with a very thin amount of aluminum between the stud and the outer edge would lead me to question the strenght. If both patterns are the same, then why weaken the piece with the two holes per stud? I will let someone else address the hub centric issue.

I will split the $5 bucks with you...LOL
 

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I would not trust it too....I agree with Huey.
 

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I bought hubcentric because I think they center the wheel with more precision than relying on the lug nuts to do so. It cost me $50 more per axle. Maybe it was unnecessary but I didn't want to take the chance.
 

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I'll take 1.66 of that 5 and jump on the no wagon. There is no reason to have multiple holes on a 5-5 spacer... if that is a conversion adapter spacer say 5/4.5 or 5/5.5 I guess that would be why the extra set of holes are there. Regardless the reason you are weakening the structure of the aluminum block, which is already regarded as not the strongest thing in the world. Spacers crack, those extra holes will make that more likely especially under off-road stress and higher torque loads. There is a reason they are $50 a pair, and it's not because they are on ebay. Best guess is they made extra ports to allow for extra options, increasing application amounts for the same production cost at the expense of the buyer.
 

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I vote no. You get what you pay for. I would not trust those on my Commander. What is my split of the 5 bucks ?
 

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Commander4lyfe
I have those on my commander. I have not taken it off road yet so I can not report on its strength under torque. However, it does have 1000 road miles on it thus far. I need to take them off and inspect for wear and tear.

I recently read a thread on here where another member had broken off his studs while running spacers. Although he did not mention the brand and he actually said the studs broke off at the hub not on the spacers, I am rethinking my purchase and will probably go with the hub centric spacers from spiderx.

NOW I need that $5.00 to upgrade to the new spacers....just make the check out to Commandoooo
 

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If you just compare the picture of those on ebay to these Spyder Trax, you get a sense for more strength and quality on the Spyders. I say no, but my share of the $5 is getting down to about nickel now.

 

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If your going to buy spacers, don't go cheap. Once you bolt those on, thats the only thing holding your tire on to your vehicle. Buy a good brand like Spidertrax or spend a little extra for some Fred Goeske wheel spacers. They are the best money can buy!

www.wheeladapter.com
 

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If you just compare the picture of those on ebay to these Spyder Trax, you get a sense for more strength and quality on the Spyders. I say no, but my share of the $5 is getting down to about nickel now.

^^^ Get these^^^

As you can see they are 5 x 5 and hub centric (the center themselves on your hub). You will not have to worry about the spacers shifting or cracking (never seen a spyders crack). The peace of mind in knowing your tires will stay on is worth the extra $.
 

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The factory wheels are hub-centric. I believe they're that way for two reasons. One, it's a true center wheel-to-axle, and two, it takes the shear forces off of the lugs. When you add a 1.5" spacer, if it is not hub-centric, the lugs are taking their normal tension forces, plus the weight of the vehicle in vertical (shear) forces. They weren't designed to do that, especially with the added leverage when you push the wheel out 1.5". The circular flange on the end of the axle fits snugly into the factory wheel or a hub-centric spacer, taking the weight component off the lugs. Then their only job is hold the wheel tight to the axle. That doesn't mean the lugs will fail every time a non-hub-centric spacer is used, but I think it means that possibility is greater than with a properly torqued, hub-centric spacer. So as everyone else here is saying, spend the money for spacers made specifically for an XK/WK. A failure of one spacer at speed will cost substantially more than the money saved by buying cheap spacers, if you're lucky.

The failure mentioned in an earlier post was probably due to the factory lugs fatiguing after being over-torqued. They were hub-centric Spidertrax spacers as I recall. If that is the case, they failed for a different reason than the hub-centric/non-hub-centric issue.

Addition - If you look at the pictures of the Spidertrax spacers, there is an identically sized flange machined into them to replicate the axle flange. As GP stated earlier, that is a more accurate true center for the wheel than letting the tapered lug nuts 'center' the wheel. And again, it transfers the weight of the vehicle into the spacer which in turn transfers it to the axle (or in our case, the unit bearing), and does not rely on the lugs themselves to carry the actual weight.
 

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I just bought 4 nice wheels for $414 to help put the cost of spacers in perspective.
What wheels did you buy that only cost $414 for (4)? What is the back spacing?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks guys. All this input helps out a lot. Was just wanting people's opinions on these. Thanks for all your responses.
 

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Thanks guys. All this input helps out a lot. Was just wanting people's opinions on these. Thanks for all your responses.
Well, we just don't want you to die, C4Lyfe.:banana_hitit:
 
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