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Hey guys -

Currently on my second XK (moved out of state, didn't need a car, sold XK - moved back home, needed car, wanted another XK).

It's a 2006/5.7L with ~ 124,500K miles. Since purchasing it, I've done some small maintenance, including:

- Oil change/tire rotate & balance
- Replaced sway bar bushings to alleviate front-end clunking (still have some creaking noises over bumps at low speeds, but clunking has stopped)
- New upper radiator hose (dodged a bullet, to say the least)

As I approach the 125K mark, I'd like to take it into the dealership, mainly to get my differential fluid changed (I had an issue on my first XK where I went TOO long and ended up having to replace some ball joints, if I remember correctly.)

Are there any other items that I definitely need to have on my hit list when I go in? Aside from a seatbelt light that stays on (and having to use two hands to get the seat belts to lock into place) and the creaking I mentioned above, the Jeep is running perfect.

Any insight would be appreciated.
 

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You can save a ton on servicing if you do it yourself. Most is NOT difficult for the average DIY'er. Even an independent shop might be cheaper than the Dealership, they should be more than capable of doing standard servicing on the XK.

Open your Owner's Manual and Review the Maintenance Schedule, what ever has NOT been done (and if you don't have a record of it assume it wasn't) that is what you should do. Personally, the severe duty schedule for axle fluid changes says every 15k miles, but the normal schedule says it lasts the life of the vehicle. Every 15k is too often for how and where I drive, so I split the difference and do it every 30k-50k miles.

The coolant is every 5yr/100k miles, if it hasn't been drained and flushed, you need to do it. If the radiator hose replacement was just fill it back up after replacing the hose, that is NOT a drain and flush, you have to get all the old coolant out, it goes bad and leaves solids in the cooling system. If the radiator hose replacement was refilled with any ol' anti-freeze, you don't know if it was HOAT, then drain and flush it right away, bad things can happen mixing different types of anti-freeze. Zerex G-05 is the aftermarket equilavelent of Chrysler HOAT.

125k mile is the trouble free life of the vehicle, according to the OEM, so when they say the fluid will last the life of the vehicle, by 125k miles I would change it. That is brake fluid and power steering fluid. Dealerships will charge you an arm and a leg to do this, if you're not doing it yourself, it might NOT be cost effective to change out those fluids as a preventative measure.

Trans and XFR Case fluid as well. There is a TSB changing the fluid for the QTII and QDII XFR cases from ATF+4 to a new special specific fluid for that XFR case, to make for smoother shifting and less problems from the shift motor and gear.

The Hemi has a hydraulic fan, that uses the PS system to power it, its a good guess that is tough on the fluid, and fresh fluid in the PS system would likely be a good preventative measure to prevent that very expensive hydraulic fan from wearing out. Use the exact recommended PS fluid in the O.M. only available from the dealer, its hybrid hydraulic/PS fluid because its being used as hydraulic fluid as well.

Shocks are a good candidate at 125k miles. I did mine at 120k, and sure enough I had a blown front shock you couldn't tell when driving and it occasionally did make a creaking sound over speed bumps.

Next Tire Change, I would also put on all new TPMS sensors. The battery only last 8-10 years, it requires removing unmounting/remounting and balancing the tire to change the sensor, which can be very expensive. So getting all new sensors while the tires are being changed will save a lot money in the long run.
 

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Oh, you might want to make sure the Front Shock Clevis is available in the part system before you let a dealership change your shocks. There is a post on here from someone that had a dealership break the Front Shock Clevis trying to change his shocks, then told him the part is back ordered for 6 months and he can't drive his XK until the part comes in in 6 months.
 

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IS your truck a 2wd or 4wd? I go to the dealer and buy the friction inhibitor and have Sears do the differentials. It is $50 per vs dealer at $150 per axel.
 

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The 2WD, Qaudra-TracI and II have open differentials that do NOT require the Friction Modifier, if you have Qaudra-DriveII you have ELSD's front and rear and it does require the Friction Modifier. All require Synthetic Gear Oil.

As Creek says, independent shops are often much cheaper than the Dealership, that many rip off their customers. Something like servicing with new fluid, an independent shop can do it very well and charge much less.
 
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