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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I hace a Jeep Commander 5.7L OVerland and am considering a small 2" lift. I have read many topics, many forums around the internet and think that I have chosen good components. Just to be sure, I would like a sanity check. Here is a list along with my comments.

What I want: A small lift, probably up to 2", so that other components do not suffer extensive wear. I expect mild off-road at most, that is mud, grass, small rocks and some mallcrawling in the city, of course.

Components list

Springs: OME HD springs in front and back (2991 and 2993)

While I do not have (nor I plan to have) a bull bar, a winch, tire carrier, etc. I read that for Commander with HEMI, I want to have the HD version of OME suspension. I also have underbody metal protection plates (engine and fuel tank). One of the most important things for me is to have a level car.

Shocks: Probably standard OME (N188S and N190)

I read many topics on this and was deciding between OME and Bilstein. Preference really comes down to a specific forum. One claims that OME is good, another that Bilstein tech is ahead of OME. Third says Bilstein are too stiff. I decided to go with OME as they were designed to work with their springs together.

Upper control arms: JeepinByAl Upper A-arms for lifted WK/XK [link]

Not much to say here, I really want to get these.

Track bar: Rusty's Track Bar - Adjustable HD Rear [link]

I am not sure whether I need an adjustable track bar with 2" lift. But since I like to do things properly, this might be a good idea.

Tires: 245/75 R17, manufacturer and model to be chosen yet

I will keep my original wheels and I would like to have the largest available tire but without the need of spacers (I dislike them) or other modifications (pinch weld mod, wheel well). According to our stickied post, 245/75 R17 is the largest diameter to have with 2" lift and without spacers.


So this is it. I assume this would be a quite OK lift. There are other small things to replace, such as spring isolators that I do not list, just the main components.
Would this be a good lift for my light usage? Or should I change some components? Thanks.
 

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From the questions I have asked, this looks like a good set up...but I have yet to actually get all my components in and installed.
 

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Your setup looks good. You don't necessarily need an adjustable rear track bar, but it will help center the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hello, thank you for the confirmation. I have already ordered OME lift kit from a local dealer who quoted me a good price. I will order JBA's UCA probably in the next few days or weeks and have them ship directly to me. Tires need more research yet.

The last thing I want to ask about is rear adjustable track bar. I do want one as I want to "do it right" the first time and also found a post where someone mentioned it gave him more clearance between drive shaft and fuel tank skid plate [post here], which I also have. The thing is, I found some not-so-good posts about Rusty's track bars and some people make it sound like they are the worst with several cases of crushes/bent/disconnected track bars in offroad and on a highway. If true, that is very dangerous. Example here (just one of more I found).

Other companies get much more favorable reviews, such as RockKrawler, Iron Rock Offroad, TNT, Rubicon Express, etc. However, none of these does stuff for WK/WK Jeeps. The only other I found is Rocky Road track bar.

It also seems Rusty has redesigned the track bar around 2012. Should I be afraid of them? Or is it just fine?
Thanks.
 

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@zoom;

I think your tire selection is a little undersized.

265/70/17's would be better suited for a 2 inch lift and it would look more proper & correct IMO.

The only problem is, I don't know if they will fit on the factory rims.

In all honesty, you'd probably do your Commander a little more justice buying a nice set of after market rims to fit the proper size tires for the lift you want to run.

I think you will find that anything smaller than 265/70/17's will wind up looking under-sized with a 2 inch lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
About those wheels: I really read a lot about it and I am pretty sure I want 245/75 R17. I do like beefy tires on a Jeep and would very much like 265/70 R17, that was the size I chose initially.

However, I really really want to avoid:
- using spacers
- any modding no matter how easy it is (pinch weld mod, wheel well remodelling)

Base on the sticky post in this forum, I chose 245/75 wheel as the largest that will fit with a 2" lift. I also looked at several photos and dont think it looks very undersized. Of course a more beefier wheel with spacer looks better, but at the cost of using spacers and doing mods.

Some photos here:
- 245/75 R17 tires on a stock Commander
- 245/75 R17 tires + 2" lift

I find these acceptable for me. Also keep in mind basic math of these wheels:
- 245/75 has 31.47" diameter (+6.53% compared to stock 245/65 R17)
- 265/70 has 31.61" diamater (+7.00%)

Not that much of a difference. I would like to have wider tires, it just looks good, but not at the moment. Perhaps in the future when I get tired of this setup. Also it is much easier to find 265/70 tires than 245/75 where I live, but that is a small price to pay.
 

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About those wheels: I really read a lot about it and I am pretty sure I want 245/75 R17. I do like beefy tires on a Jeep and would very much like 265/70 R17, that was the size I chose initially.

However, I really really want to avoid:
- using spacers
- any modding no matter how easy it is (pinch weld mod, wheel well remodelling)

Base on the sticky post in this forum, I chose 245/75 wheel as the largest that will fit with a 2" lift. I also looked at several photos and dont think it looks very undersized. Of course a more beefier wheel with spacer looks better, but at the cost of using spacers and doing mods.

Some photos here:
- 245/75 R17 tires on a stock Commander
- 245/75 R17 tires + 2" lift

I find these acceptable for me. Also keep in mind basic math of these wheels:
- 245/75 has 31.47" diameter (+6.53% compared to stock 245/65 R17)
- 265/70 has 31.61" diamater (+7.00%)

Not that much of a difference. I would like to have wider tires, it just looks good, but not at the moment. Perhaps in the future when I get tired of this setup. Also it is much easier to find 265/70 tires than 245/75 where I live, but that is a small price to pay.
Obviously, the decision is yours @zoom.

All I would say is, make that decision with the correct information in hand.

You absolutely can run 265/70/17's without any spacers and without having to do the pinch-weld mod - or any other modifications. You just have to choose the proper rim size.

My rims are (17x8 with 5.5 inch back-spacing) and I run P265/70/R17's with a 2 inch RC lift (which is also the tire size that Rough Country recommends to run with their 2 inch lift) and I have no spacers and have not had to do ANY modifications at all to run these tires and I have no rubbing whatsoever.

The people that run into problems with P265/70/R17's are the people that pick the wrong rim size - or rims with the wrong back-spacing & off-set.

So, now that you have ALL of the facts, if you still want to go with the 245/75's then by all means do so - I just didn't want you to make that decision based on inaccurate information - which is what you were doing based on the explanation you gave above.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, proper rims size will achieve the same thing as OEM wheels with spacers. They will also introduce same issues (like more force/stress on the bearing), but without other disadvantages of spacers (twice as many lug nuts, etc).

My OEM wheels (number 3 here) are 17x7.5 inch with ET50.8mm which is 6.25" backspacing.
I calculated that your rim size with backspacing of 5.5 inch is about ET25 (offset 25 mm).

Can you let me know the exact model of rims you are using? This might be a viable option for me, but money is the issue at present time. If I find nice rooking rims I like for a good price, I might just go this road. If not, I will use my stock rims with 245/75 R17 tires.
Thanks.
 

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Yes, proper rims size will achieve the same thing as OEM wheels with spacers. They will also introduce same issues (like more force/stress on the bearing), but without other disadvantages of spacers (twice as many lug nuts, etc).

Can you let me know the exact model of rims you are using? This might be a viable option for me, but money is the issue at present time. If I find nice rooking rims I like for a good price, I might just go this road. If not, I will use my stock rims with 245/75 R17 tires.
Thanks.
This statement is totally false - and exactly what bearing are you referring to??

My Centerlines (if you read my earlier post) are Auto-Drag II's and they are 17x8 with 5.5 inches of back spacing with a custom Satin-finish. They were custom made at the factory - you can find some centerlines at 2nd party rim distributors - but their selection is very limited - it's best to go direct to the factory because you have many more options going that route.

Going a have an inch wider on your rims with slightly less back-spacing is not going to put any additional stress on your front end components - that's a completely ridiculous and uninformed statement.

The best thing you can do is go to a rim manufacturer, tell them the size tire you want to run along with the year and trim package of your Commander, along with whatever lift you are running and let them calculate the back-spacing & off-set for you - that's how you avoid having to silly things, like the pinch-weld mod or adding wheel spacers - that's if you want to run P265/70R17's.

If you have already made up your mind to run 245/75 R17's, then do that - I'm not trying to change your mind.

I just wanted you to know that you can run 265/70/R17's without wheel spacers & without doing the pinch weld mod or any wheel well modifications - as long as you choose the proper size rims.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As for the force/stress on the bearing I mentioned, please see this image:



Compare first and third option -- that is same rim but with spacers. The torque is increased on the bearing and that means more wear and tear. Of course, one could argue argue why even lift the Jeep or go off-road as that also introduced more wear. But I just don't like wheel spacers and the above image is one of the reasons. If I needed to go with the wider stance option, I would rather buy rims with different offset (as you did), instead of using wheel spacers (even if it means the same force and torque as when using spacers).

I was also looking more into track bars and while I'd like to have adjustable one, I might avoid Rusty after all. I read several bad opinions (even from reputable Jeep people from my country), however these were old opinions. Around 2012 Rusty seems to have modified the design and these newer track bars might be OK, but I am not willing to bet the safety of my car on that.

I found some Jeeperf stuff, but some people were also not happy with quality.
Also, JeepinByAl has an adjustable track bar, but only for lifts of 4" and more. I might stick with the stock one and perhaps obtain one in the future.
 

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As for the force/stress on the bearing I mentioned, please see this image:

Compare first and third option -- that is same rim but with spacers. The torque is increased on the bearing and that means more wear and tear. Of course, one could argue argue why even lift the Jeep or go off-road as that also introduced more wear. But I just don't like wheel spacers and the above image is one of the reasons.
I agree with you that spacers are a bad idea.

I have been agreeing with you this whole thread on that point.

Nothing that you have shown above changes any of the facts that I've presented to you in this thread.

You can run 265/70/17's with a 2inch lift, without wheel spacers and without doing the pinch-weld mod and without any wheel-well modifications and without any adverse effects on your suspension.

You just need to have the proper size rims - with the right back-spacing and the right off-set, that's all I'm trying to get you to understand.
 
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