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Hi all! So my girlfriend just got her first jeep. A 2006 commander. However, the air is now blowing hot and cold when It wants. If never did that when we first bought it. She says there is a smell when you turn off the jeep. There are also hoses and stuff that are not in the right place. Let me know if I can still drive it and how to fix these problems. Thank you. Attached pictures too.
 

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Um not sure what to say here. The first pick looks like you're missing your rear and front heat lines. I can't tell what your missing in the second pick. Where do live? I know people install bypasses to keep the heater cores from filling up but that looks bad. This had to be done on purpose and capped on the other end or you would of dumped all your coolant and the Jeep would overheat fast. How long have you been driving like this? The computer is pretty smart and if you don't ignore the temp gauge or check engine lights you can go to the mechanic shop to get this fixed.
 

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What engine and 4WD system do you have?

The 1st Pic, it looks like the heater hoses have been cut. You should NOT have gotten any heat out of the environmental system, if you did get a tiny bit of heat, it might have been heat from the engine compartment warming parts inside the environmental control system of the engine enough to create a bit of heat.

Since there are "T"'s in the heater hoses, you probably have a rear heat/ac system. Whomever cut the heater hoses, must have put a loop on the source at the engine (i.e. looped the output to the return) otherwise you would have squirted out all your coolant within minutes and the engine would be overheating. Check the output & return of the heater hoses, on the 3.7L V6 (and likely the 4.7 V8, since they are very similar engines) there are 2 nipples by the lower radiator hose on the engine. Likely you will find a hose in a half loop connecting the two, or someone removed the nipples and replaced them with plugs.

Sadly the only reason someone would do this is because one of the heater cores is leaking and they did NOT want to spend the money/time to fix it. It's possible that just one of the hoses was leaking, but you'd have to be pretty darn lazy to cut all the hoses just to avoid replacing a single hose. But lets hope that was the case, otherwise you need to replace the heater core, DIY is very difficult and takes a long time, you have to pull the dash, paying a shop to do it is very expensive because of all the labor involved.

One option to consider, is too bring the vehicle back to the seller and insist on return and refund or they repair the vehicle, because those cut heater hoses didn't happen by accident or part of normal wear and tear, it was done intentionally, likely to keep the vehicle operating without repairing it properly. The owner would know about it, a dealer selling it should have caught it in an inspection. They knowingly sold you a vehicle that needed a very expensive repair and didn't tell you about it during the sale.

If you want to repair this yourself, you need to replace the cut heater hoses and then see if you experience leaking heater cores, and replace the heater cores that leak at that point, if they do.

You can just get basic heater hose is you want, and replace the cut lines, get a "T" from the plumbing section of a hardware store. Or you can purchase replacement lines from the dealer that are preformed with the "T" built in. You can just forget the "T"s and run it to the front heater core.

Make sure you use the correct anti-freeze, HOAT, either get if from the dealer or use Zerex G-05, a lot of other anti-freezes claim to mix with anything is a totally bogus claim, they are the wrong anti-freeze and they do NOT mix any anti-freeze, in fact if the previous owner used one of those B.S. anti-freezes from Prestone or others, that might have caused the problems you have now.
 

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I have the 2010 3.7L V6, there will be differences between our engines.

The 2nd photo, the smaller circle, that is a boss for a stud or bolt on my 2010, slightly different position, but looks the same, and also unused. With the motor running, put your finger over it and see if there is vacuum, if there is NOT, then I think you can safely dismiss that as something unused that you do NOT have to worry about.

The larger circle, my 2010 just has a single straight line at that point to the evap purge solenoid. Does the main line on your motor go to the evap purge solenoid? So I have no idea why there is a T in that vacuum line with a line running around to the opposite side.

The 3rd photo, I'm assuming that is the end of the line circled in the 2nd photo. I this area is the transmission vent tube, by the engine oil dipstick, but the end of the tube is very much different then the tube in the photo (as well the trans vent tube runs up from the trans). It has a white plastic mushroom shaped piece on the end.

You've looked around for a nipple that tube might connect? As well, what is on the end of that line? Is it open?

I'd do the key dance to see the stored fault codes and see if you have any codes that might clue you into something not working properly because it doesn't have vacuum attached to it. Until you figure it out, I would cap off the line so you don't have vacuum leaks to the motor.
 

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Thank you for all the answers. My girlfriend is freaking out she said the car started smoking and struggling to stay on! It has oil, gas, coolant, not sure what's going on. We bought it from a craigslist private party, expensive too
 

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Thank you for all the answers. My girlfriend is freaking out she said the car started smoking and struggling to stay on! It has oil, gas, coolant, not sure what's going on. We bought it from a craigslist private party, expensive too
Tell us what engine.... 2wd... 4wd.... and anything else that would help us help you.
 

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Thank you for all the answers. My girlfriend is freaking out she said the car started smoking and struggling to stay on! It has oil, gas, coolant, not sure what's going on. We bought it from a craigslist private party, expensive too
If the lines were removed because of a bad heater core the dealer charges about $1600 for it. Then you have to find a dealer willing to do the job which can be hard. Unfortunately you got taken advantage of. This was done on purpose and I would consider it fraud. For the money of a XK I would contact the police or the DA. You could sue them in court as well. But from what we see and from what you have said the Jeep is not drive able.
 

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I believe it's the 4x4 engine. Calling a mechanic in. What's on my mind is, if they bypassed the heater core for whatever reasons, how would that make the engine smoke and all? They must have done it incorrectly? My 91 jeep Cherokee was also bypassed but runs fine.
 

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It's a 4.7 v8. I looked at the coolant, it's fine, looked at and even tasted the oil, nasty I know but that way I can tell if there is coolant or any other substance in there. Tasted fine. I've been looking for somewhere to put that Vaccum hose but I can't find a spot.
 

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Where do you live? If your Cherokee was bypassed their might be a good chance they bypassed the heater cores on purpose to keep the inside cooler. I just helped a member diagnose a no heat problem because he had a actual bypass installed that he didn't know was their. What kind of smoke are you getting? Any warning lights on the dashboard? What does it smell like and can you tell where its coming from?
 

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Just went out and looked at my 06 XK and you a definitely miss a part I looks as if it is a servo of some type. it has a vacuum line going into it. I will try to post a picture. I am referring to pic #1
 

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She said it was a white smoke coming from the engine bay. We live in Miami, it's hot as hell out here, that's why I'm not worring about the heater core. It does look it's missing something, even a connection is not plugged to something.
 

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I think that looks like the leak detection pump which is part of your emissions system. If the smoke had almost a sweet smell to it that would be a coolant smell. If it smelt more like burning then probably oil. Either way you should be throwing codes so your check engine light or something should be on. You can do the key dance to see if you have any DTC codes Click Here
 

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MY last jeep had a emission diagram somewhere under the hood, does the XK have one. Too dark to check tonight.
 

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When you checked the coolant level, did you just look at the overflow jug? Or did you open the pressure cap on the radiator (only when the engine is cold) and look inside and make sure the coolant level came within 1" of the top of the pressure cap seat?

If you had a leak in the cooling system, that overflow jug level would stay the same, while the coolant level would be going down in the cooling system. That would cause steam to come up from the engine also.

That uncapped vacuum line will cause a vacuum leak, that can cause stalling and all sorts of issues with the engine, you need to cap off that line so that it is NO longer a vacuum leak.

That picture from Creek makes a lot of sense, that vacuum servo seems to be missing from your vehicle and it looks like the vacuum line that you have uncapped. My 2010, they changed the Evap Purged Test System, so I don't have that as well, I have the 3.7L V6.
 

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Kelly Blue Book lists a 2006 Jeep Commander w/4.7L V8, 4X4 w/ 110k miles from $7,100 to $8,600 depending on its condition for a private sale. You said it was expensive, was it in that price range?

I typical see cars selling for more than the KBB, as much as $2k more, honestly if you paid more than $10k in a private sale, I'm guessing you paid too much.

Like I've suggested and others, talk with the BBB, cops, consumer protection, etc; find out the law, many states/cities have a "Buyer's Remorse" period. As well, if the seller didn't tell the buyer about the cut heater lines or the missing emissions control equipment before or during the sale, you have a fraud case against him, talk to the seller and see if he'll refund the money. Find out the law before you talk to the seller, so you can pressure him that you will hold him accountable.
 

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Last year my jeep's engine pump get leaked due to damage in accident but i was not able to detect the exact location of leakage then i call Leak Detection service,they send their professionals for the leakage detection area and then they relocate the whole process .
 

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Last year my jeep's engine pump get leaked due to damage in accident but i was not able to detect the exact location of leakage then i call Leak Detection service,they send their professionals for the leakage detection area and then they relocate the whole process .
I'm sorry....I've read this 3 or 4 times and I have no idea what you're trying to say other then your jeep's engine was leaking something after an accident......:surprise:
 
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