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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
[EDIT] 275/60/17 tires, 17x9 wheels, 2" lift...

*Edited layout from a 265/65/17 to a 275/60/17, see further posts*

No, I haven't done this yet, because I want you all to proofread my work, make sure I'm not screwin' it up before I go drop 2 grand tomorrow.

Disclaimer: I'm a noob at this, I've never seriously modded a vehicle, and a lot of this is new to me. I've spent hours readin the 'net and this forum just trying to figure it all out, so I could be way off.

Here is me in a nutshell, just to give you reference for what I'm tryin' to do. I'm mostly a road-driver, but I am interested in doing *light* off-roading from time to time, mainly just trips through easy trails to look at the scenery and stuff. I'm not interested in arching my back spanning chasms and crawling my front tire up redwood trees and stuff, if you catch my drift. I want a vehicle that is sturdy in bad conditions, which it is for the most part, but I just wanna spice things up.

What I truly desire in modding my Commander is achieving a "wide stance", not necessarily huge height, although I would like a little bump up. A proper analogy when I view my stock Commander is that it's wearing a nice suit, but sporting a lame pair of shoes. I wanna improve my shoes.

I want versatility, so that my highway traveling is comfy, yet if the moment arises, I can detour into the woods and dirt without having to worry.

I currently use the stock Fortera's 245/65/17's, and some crappy lookin alloy rims.

Here is what I have come up with:

[Wheels]
Moto Metal 951's 17x9:
(example here) http://www.truck-toyz.com/picrequests/166-6687_img.jpg

[Tires]
Toyo Open Country A/T P265/65R17
(example here) http://www.discount-tires-2go.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=173834&InfoID=4853&ShowLarge=True

I believe that wheel/tire combo works, correct me if I'm wrong.

Local shop wants to go with Daystar 2" lift, which is fine by me if it works. The 2" lifts are $165, the 4" lifts are $1500+, so I'll be sticking with the 2" for now, lol.

And then, once all of that is done, I want to see how it looks and determine if I'll be adding spacers, Spidertrax I presume. I'm hoping I'll achieve the desired "wide" stance by the wider tires/wheels and the spacers.

Do you guys see any problems with rubbing or anything with this setup?
 

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I personally wouldn't run a 265/70 with a 17x9 wheel. I think a 17x7.5(stock wheel) or 17x8 is the widest wheel I'd run with that narrow of a tire. I know its probablly impossible to find a 17x8. Ubercommander has 17x8.5 AEV Pintler wheels and if I recall correctly he mentioned that the 265/70 was the absolute smallest tire recommended for that wheel. I personall have seen his vehicle and dont really see a problem with the tire wheel combo (as in the width he is running) but personally wouldn't run anything less then a 275 or 285 on his size wheel.

Again this is my personal opinion, and im sure other might disagree with me. Im just looking out for you safety. A 265mm wide tire is a narrow tire to be stretching across a 9 inch wide wheel.
 

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Because you are buying new wheels I think you can avoid the wheel spacers. Just make sure the wheels provide the right offset to accomplish what the spacers and stock wheels would have.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Okay, went back to the shop, we looked and tweaked and came up with the following setup:

ProComp 6059 17x9 with a -8mm offset

Here is a wrangler unlimited sporting the same wheels:
http://www.benhedrick.com/JK9.jpg

I stuck with the Toyo's, just changed the size.
Toyo Open Country A/T 275/60/17. 29.9 inches tall and 11.1 inches wide.

Still goin with the 2" lift. The guy there seemed to think I'd have no problem with rubbing, but they'd work it out if it did.

I came to realize last night that I really don't want a taller tire than the stock Fortera's, I just want a fatter tire with a little more aggressive tread pattern. Like I said earlier, I'm going for a wider stance. I'd like the tire to protrude from the flare about a half inch to an inch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Went ahead with the aforementioned setup above, should be mounted by the middle of next week, so I guess we'll just see how it goes from here. Will post pics if I can. Guy said I could return the tires and get new ones if these don't work out.

I think it'll look okay though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tried to Photoshop what I envision it will look like. I hope it looks something like this, although the my tread pattern will obviously be less aggressive than the mud terrain tire that is on the wheel.
 

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I tried to Photoshop what I envision it will look like. I hope it looks something like this, although the my tread pattern will obviously be less aggressive than the mud terrain tire that is on the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I'm doin some searches on this forum and the net, and I can't really find any references of someone previously throwing a 17x9" rim and 275/60's on a Commander, so this should be interesting to see if it works. Gonna be bummed if it doesn't.

I currently have the 17x7.5" Hulks, and I'm unsure of the offset on those, so I guess that'll be the key:

Old rig:
??? offset on Hulk wheels
7.5" inch width of the Hulk wheels
9.7" inch width of the Fortera tires

New rig:
-8mm offset on ProComp wheels
9" width of the ProComp wheels
11.1 inch width of the Toyo tires

These Toyo tires are almost exactly the same height, but are a little over an inch wider than the Fortera's, and since the new wheel will be offset by 1/3 inch (8mm), it's safe to assume this new tire/wheel combo will be sticking "out" a little farther than I currently am... curious to see if I'll be rubbing the well when I turn the wheel.
 

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Here’s my two cents worth: (And that’s about all it’s worth. :D)

First of all, you’ll like the Toyo Open country. I’ve had that same tire on a log of rigs. They wear like iron, and grip good for a pretty quiet highway running tire. Any more tread and you’ll get pavement howlers.

I’d stay away from larger diameter tires, and go for width. You go much taller, and you’re getting into replacing both differentials ring and pinion gear sets because your mileage just took a plummet. Your gearing is right for highway use and mileage, so if you go taller, your engine runs too slow and falls out of its best torque RPM. You also lose off-road torque, but that’s probably not a real big problem with the 2.7:1 transfer case gearing. (Most 4x4 SUV’s transfer cases are less than 2:1)

And, (although you’re already looking at them) stay away from spacers and find wheels with the right offset. Spacers are a compromise at best because they weaken the wheel to hub connection. I’ve had couple of spacers get torn up in heavy off-roading. I’ve also seen them fail. Usually when they let go, you’re on the move, so the bodywork rides up on the loose tire/wheel and a lot of body damage happens.
 

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... curious to see if I'll be rubbing the well when I turn the wheel. I think with this kind of offset, that I shouldn't be in danger of hitting that bolt behind the wheel. The problem will probly be wheel well.
Can't say much about the wheel well rubbing, but that bolt is the ball joint nut for the upper A-arm. It's attached to the cast iron hub strut. (For lack of a better term) That strut and A-arm moves up and down along with the wheel hub, so the wheel/tire will never change relative position from the ball joint nut. You should be safe there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Here’s my two cents worth: (And that’s about all it’s worth. :D)

First of all, you’ll like the Toyo Open country. I’ve had that same tire on a log of rigs. They wear like iron, and grip good for a pretty quiet highway running tire. Any more tread and you’ll get pavement howlers.

I’d stay away from larger diameter tires, and go for width. You go much taller, and you’re getting into replacing both differentials ring and pinion gear sets because your mileage just took a plummet. Your gearing is right for highway use and mileage, so if you go taller, your engine runs too slow and falls out of its best torque RPM. You also lose off-road torque, but that’s probably not a real big problem with the 2.7:1 transfer case gearing. (Most 4x4 SUV’s transfer cases are less than 2:1)

And, (although you’re already looking at them) stay away from spacers and find wheels with the right offset. Spacers are a compromise at best because they weaken the wheel to hub connection. I’ve had couple of spacers get torn up in heavy off-roading. I’ve also seen them fail. Usually when they let go, you’re on the move, so the bodywork rides up on the loose tire/wheel and a lot of body damage happens.
Excellent info, my decision and your logic are pretty much in-line. I went with wider wheels/tires, and almost exact same wheel height as my current Forteras, so my speedometer should be impacted minimally. I ended up avoiding the spacers for the meanwhile, hoping that this new wheel delivers the wider stance I'm looking for, being 9" wide and having -8mm offset. The tire being 11.1" inches wide also should have a say in that.

If my calculations are correct, and the Hulks are 0 offset as I'm assuming, I think this new rig will come out about 1" farther than old rig. Old rig is recessed about 2" inside the flare, so this new rig should put me 1" closer... I may still entertain the spacer idea to give me the proper stance. We'll just hafta see how it looks in a week and go from there.
 

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And when you do... pictures... we gotta' have pictures! :D
 

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I did the math and figured out the back spacing of those 17x9 wheels with -8mm offset. It comes out to be roughly 4.68 inches of Back spacing. If i recall correctly our stock wheels are 17x7.5 with approx 6.5 inches of back spacing. So with that being said you will have no problem clearing the UCA/Ball Joint bolt. Also with that wheel being 9 inches wide and having 4.68 inches of back spacing in theory it will stick out approx 3.5 inches further then the stock wheels giving you that wider stance you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I used a link in one of the stickied topics to come up with a pretty cool estimate. I had seen somewhere that our stock tire had a 50 offset, which was pretty close to your 6.5" backspace estimate (actually 6.2"), so I went with that:

http://www.1000rims.com/rt_specs.jsp?item=Wheel-Tire size comparer&showRim1=1&showTire1=1&sw1=245&ar1=65&bd1=17&rd1=17&rw1=7.5&et1=50&showRim2=1&showTire2=1&sw2=275&ar2=60&bd2=17&rd2=17&rw2=9.0&et2=-8&text1=Stock&text2=New

According to that, the new rig will stick out 2.9" inches further than the stock rig. I'd be perfectly happy with that. That's just under an inch past the fender. That would be what I desire, now the key will be if the 2" lift will give me enough clearance to keep my tires from smacking my fender on rough jolts. My fender currently sits 3" above my tire, so an additional ~2 inches puts me at 5" of clearance... dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Okay, here is a preview... The shop has the tires and wheels in, they are still waiting on the lift before they call me in to put everything on, but I did stop by and they threw the wheel/tire combo on my back left hub just to give me a hint of what it'll look like, and I must admit, I cannot wait to see the final product. Keep in mind, these pics were taken with my cell, so not great quality.

Hopefully, early next week it'll be done so I can give you all a full pic, and the Commander is currently pretty nasty because I haven't washed it since we've had about a foot of snow here, it's covered in salt and sand.
I wish I had gotten a rear view, but my damn cell phone ran outta room. The difference in tire width is considerable, and the overall setup sticks out from my flare about an inch, which is perfect for what I wanted. It's hard to see in these pics, so I'll post better ones when it's all done.



 

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I like the wheel and tires. Looks good. The offset looks right. Mine sticks out about an inch and I like it. Of course, it sprays all over as you'd expect.
 
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