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I took my 2007 jeep commander, which I bought new in 2008 as a left over, in for 30,000 mile regular maintenance. I was told I needed rear brakes, new sparks, tire rotation, transfer flluid change and oil/filter change to the tune of $1595. They offered me a 10% discount and 3 free oil changes in the future. Does this price sound reasonable? I am aware that in order to keep my power train warranty I need to keep up with the maintenance of the vehicle through the dealership. Just curious on price. Anybody have similiar situation? Thanks
 

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I took my 2007 jeep commander, which I bought new in 2008 as a left over, in for 30,000 mile regular maintenance. I was told I needed rear brakes, new sparks, tire rotation, transfer flluid change and oil/filter change to the tune of $1595. They offered me a 10% discount and 3 free oil changes in the future. Does this price sound reasonable? I am aware that in order to keep my power train warranty I need to keep up with the maintenance of the vehicle through the dealership. Just curious on price. Anybody have similiar situation? Thanks
My dealer quoted me around 600.00, which included: spark plugs, transmission, transfer case, and both differentials, as well as checking all the small stuff. I do not use my dealer for oil changes - it takes too long! I just received a coupon from my dealer to get an oil change and receive the next 3 free, so this part of your quote is nothing special! This quote is way too high. It would seem to me that your front brakes would go before the rears. I have 45K on mine, and I have never done the brakes! Tire rotation? Do it your self, or take it to a tire store. :eek:rangehat:
 

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I have an 2007 as well which I bought in 2008 as left over. I had my 30.000 miles service about three months ago. I'm not sure about the exact amount but I paid less than $500. Tire rotation was excluded , can do that for free at Tire discount.
I'll see if I can find the receipt tonight and give you an overview of the cost per service item on the bill.
$1595 IS DEFINITLY WAY TOO MUCH!!!!!
 

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I took my 2007 jeep commander, which I bought new in 2008 as a left over, in for 30,000 mile regular maintenance. I was told I needed rear brakes, new sparks, tire rotation, transfer flluid change and oil/filter change to the tune of $1595. They offered me a 10% discount and 3 free oil changes in the future. Does this price sound reasonable? I am aware that in order to keep my power train warranty I need to keep up with the maintenance of the vehicle through the dealership. Just curious on price. Anybody have similiar situation? Thanks
That price is outrageous, its just sad how many horror stories we hear on this forum about Dealerships gouging people.

1st-You do NOT have to have the vehicle serviced by the Dealership to maintain the warranty. BUT, be prepared to defend your own or independent shop servicing if you have a warranty claim. So make sure you keep good records, including receipts, and use the specified fluids and parts in servicing (identify the fluid in the servicing records, either by specific long name, part#, etc), you can find the info in your owners manual for the specified fluids.

I hate when people are vague, you need new rear brakes? If your rear brakes failed and need replaced in less than 30k miles, that should be covered under warranty. Completely replacing the rear brakes would justify the $1600 quote; but they should be doing the rear brakes under warranty.

I suspect, your rear brake "PADS" have worn out, which would be normal wear and would NOT be covered under the warranty. Replacing rear brake "PADS", plus the other servicing you stated should NOT add up close to the price they are quoting you.

You can inspect the pads and rotors yourself and can tell how close they are to wearing out, it takes a whole 2 minutes, I would check and see if they are BS'ing you. Its rare the rear brake pads would wear out faster then the front pads, they usually last twice as long as the front pads, have you had your front brake pads replaced earlier? If NOT, that makes me even more suspicious.

NOTE, there is a difference, if the dealer is telling you need new rear brakes, other than normal wear, it should be done under warranty, unless they can prove it was the result of neglect or abuse, needing new brake pads and having rotors turned is normal wear and NOT covered under warranty, but is NOT that expensive of servicing. The dealer service writer should have made it clear to you what is wrong with the rear brakes and how much it would cost to correct it within in that $1600 quote, and also made it clear why it was NOT covered under the warranty.

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I do all this stuff myself, so I don't pay for labor, and Dealerships will always round up on labor to next highest hour and charge you for the full hour.

  • rear brakes pads ($75-$110 parts/supplies, 1 hour labor)
  • new spark plugs ($24 parts/supplies, 1 hour labor)
  • tire rotation ($0 parts/supplies, 1/2 hour labor)
  • transfer flluid change ($5 parts/supplies, 1/2 hour labor)
  • oil/filter change ($20 parts/supplies, 1/2 hour labor)
  • Total = $124-$159 parts/supplies, 3.5 hours labor
Even at the outrageous rate of $120/hour labor, thats a grand total of: $579.

If you're going to use synthetic oil, add $10-$15 to the price.

Rear brakes, you can get top quality pads for $75, if they turn the rotors which they should be able to do themselves with their own machinery for a lot less, but most shops will charge you $10-$20 a rotor to turn them.

Bring it over to my house, I'll do all that for $579 and be done in one Saturday afternoon, even without all the equipment and tools the dealership has to get the job done faster. Whoops, I forgot I live in the Peoples Republic of Marland, they would zealously throw me in Jail for doing something like this.

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We need a bad dealership directory, heck just a place scans of their service/repair qoutes online, they will speak for themselves. I've got a feeling if you posted the document, that also identified this dealership, we would tear it apart in its overcharges and that dealership would rightfully lose business.

Of course, there may be something the original poster is NOT telling us, and that could change the story, but if everything stated is correct, I smell a bad dealership trying to gouge customers.
 

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I've seen this $1500 price before. I'm assuming this commander is the hemi. There are 16 plugs in the hemi i believe.
 

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I've seen this $1500 price before. I'm assuming this commander is the hemi. There are 16 plugs in the hemi i believe.
Are they SOLID GOLD Spark Plugs?:mofo:

But, that is a good point, in my own write up above, I assumed a V6 for the price of parts/supplies for spark plugs. A hemi I would imagine, the cost of platinum plugs (if they are called for) could easily be as high as $96 for all 16, even more I would NOT find unreasonable.

BUT, $5 short of $1600, it just doesn't jive, I'd like to see the itemized list of costs and labor for each item. As well, a 2nd opinion on the rear brakes.

It might just be my pet peeve, but why do people refer to normal brake service as getting "NEW" Brakes? You need oil & filter changed on the trans or engine, you wouldn't say, I need a "NEW" trans or engine. Someone needs new shocks, you wouldn't say, I need a "NEW" suspension. And that leads to people paying $500 for a new set of pads installed, because they are getting "NEW" brakes, or people coming away with a quote for repairing a major brake failures, needing very epensive components replaced, stating it must be a rip-off, because "NEW" brakes only cost $100, the last time I got "NEW" brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
MONGO...

Thanks for the reply post. If you don't mind i am going to get back to you this afternoon when I get my receipt. I think there was more work beibng done than I know about, but I want to see if you think I got gauged when you see what was done. Do you mind taking a look?
 

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...I think there was more work beibng done than I know about...
Thats NOT good, do you mean, there is more work being performed that you listed in your original post, you couldn't remember everything that was on the list, when you went over it with the service writer? They should NOT, and in most states, CAN NOT, perform work you did NOT authorize? Which means you discussed it and agreed to it.

Why NOT scan and post it on the forum as a picture? The problem is, since auto repair is my hobby and I do all my work myself, I'm probably less familiar with the going rate for a certain repair than most people.

I certainly am good to tell you how much I would pay for the parts/supplies for the job, dealerships often mark up parts/supplies costs a lot higher, and how long it would usually take me to do the job, which a dealership with better tools/equipment/training and pro's rehearsed in performing the jobs, should be able to do it faster than I can; but dealerships use a guidebook for the time it takes to complete a job, and charge labor according to the guidebook, regardless of how long it takes to complete the job.

So it will help to have some other opinions with people that have paid dealerships and independent mechanics to do these jobs and have a better idea what is the typical "fair" charge. From me, you'll get a drastically lower estimate, from a DIY'er that buys the parts/supplies without the big mark-up and doesn't pay anything for labor.

Beware of double charging on labor, out of one side of their mouth, the shop will tell you if you need a big job done that requires a lot of labor to tear apart a big component, that you would be wise to also do a several other jobs early in the middle of this, because each of the jobs require doing the same high amount of labor. Which makes sense, why tear apart a big component, and NOT repalce the other things that are likely to fail soon, if you don't, you'll just have to come back and pay to have it torn all apart again to replace another part that you could have had done earlier while it was already apart. BUT, out of the other side of their mouth, they will then proceed to add up the full labor to do each part seperately, knowing full well, they are NOT doing that much labor, they are just tearing the component apart once to repalce 3 parts, NOT tearing it apart and putting it back together 3 times to replace 3 parts, but they charge you like they are doing that.

Keep in mind, when a dealership or independent mechanic charges you for labor, is NOT what the actual mechanic gets paid, the shop owner has a lot of expenses to keep a roof over the shop and to pay for the tools and equipment to do the repairs, that is built into the labor rate and often costs more than what the mechanic gets paid.

As well, most bad dealerships treat their mechanics as badly as the customers, poor pay, rewarding them for poor behaviour, like cutting corners and producing quantity over quality, the best mechanics get stuck with the time consuming tough jobs that pay them less, and the bad mechanics get the quick easy jobs that pay out more per the day. Yes, they often pay the mechanics by the job, NOT a salary or hourly by when they clock into work. They'll commend a mechanic for having a zero return rate, i.e. he does the job right the first time, but fire him the next week, because he doesn't turn over enough jobs per week like the other mechanics. Then they'll offer a minor scolding to mechanics that every other job is returned to be repaired again, because they cut huge corners and do a horribly sloppy job, but keep them on the pay roll forever because they turn over so much more jobs per week than the others.

And its the Dealership owner that makes all the money, NOT the mechanics, so don't blame the mechanics, blame the management.

There are good dealerships out there that don't treat their people or customers this way, sadly, since there are so many ignorant consumers out there, just waiting to get suckered, the bad dealerships can get away with it, and there is little incentive in getting ahead with good honest business practices.
 

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That price is outrageous!!! That's more than what the 60,000 service should cost.


BTW, 2 things:

1. Yes, the rear brake pads tend to wear faster on the XK, especially if your driving style is generally light braking.

2. The Hemi does not require any fancy plugs. Copper comes standard. Some of us have put in platinum or iridium for performance and/or to extend the service intervals.



:eek:rangehat:
 

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Yea, 2007Jeep said they were performing more work that he did NOT know about, I'm hoping he meant, more work then he remembered to list in the original post.

BUT, $1600 for 30k mile servicing, I'm suspicious, unless the vehicle has some real problems they are repairing the same time as the servicing, and 2007Jeep forgot to mention the problems that are being repaired, there is something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok i just got back from picking up my truck. After 10% discount, tax included and 3 free oil changes the bill came to $1300.
Gauged or fair?
I have attached the 3 page receipt. any comments?[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
 

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Looks like you got HAMMERED on labor costs..$200 in labor to replace brake pads on two wheels ??? $150 to drain and fill the diff's ??? Looks like they just went by "the book..Local place here advertises $250.00 for front/rear/xfer case service..
 

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1st - before we get into dissecting this service invoice;
WHAT ENGINE, TRANSMISSION and 4WD System does your Commander have? The different major components have different service requirements and even schedule, which will make a difference in evaluating this.

2nd - For anyone, what does G.O.G. stand for in the term G.O.G. and Supplies mean? Is this the typical equipment use charge that shops will charge to earn some ROI on the expensive equipment they use to do some of the servicing procedures? Which, why do they charge 4 times as much as they pay their mechanics in labor, if they are NOT using that excess to pay for the equipment they own.

3rd - There are items on there that are NOT called for in the 30k mi. Service Schedule, did the Service writer speak to you about these items? Suggesting they would be a good idea in addition to the specified servicing in the owners manual? Did he discuss with you how and what conditions you drive the vehicle and discuss using the "Severe" Maintenance Schedule for doing your 30k mi. Service? If they did NOT, and both parties agreed to performing the routine 30k mi. Service, I think you should call/write Chrysler Customer Service and complain. Clearly, they have performed and charged for procedures that are NOT recommended by Chrysler as part of a 30k mi. service. Of course, it might turn out to be your word against theirs, and notice how they write up the service invoice, NOT that you requested a 30k mi. Servicing, but instead, wrote that you specifically requested each procedure that they performed on the invoice.
 

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Every line says customer states/customer requests. Basically, you asked for it and you got it: you got screwed - did you receive a kiss? I told you my dealer quoted $600 big ones - why did you go ahead and do this? :icon_confused:
 

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Just had mine done in October and it cost about $700 and change.
 

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1st - before we get into dissecting this service invoice;
WHAT ENGINE, TRANSMISSION and 4WD System does your Commander have? The different major components have different service requirements and even schedule, which will make a difference in evaluating this.

He must have the 4.7L since the sheets show 8 spark plugs were replaced.


BTW, what does "Transfer case service with additive kit" mean...? What additive???? Ain't nothin' more that goes in the transfer case other than Chrysler's secret sauce.

All I can say is *ouch*... :(
 

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This is from my 2010 Jeep Commander Owner’s Manual, your 2007 may be different, so you should confirm it by checking it against your owner’s manual.

  • Oil/Filter Changes and Tire Rotation every 6k miles
At 12k and 24k miles, the maintenance schedule says you should:
  • If using your vehicle for any of the following: Dusty or off-road conditions. Inspect the engine air cleaner filter; replace if necessary
  • Inspect the brake linings, replace if necessary
  • Inspect the CV joints
  • Inspect exhaust system
  • Inspect the front suspension, tie rod ends and boot seals for cracks or leaks and all parts for damage, wear, improper looseness or end play; replace if necessary
So, you’ve should have had these procedures performed twice already, except for inspecting and replacing the air filter, if you do NOT use your vehicle in Dusty, Off-Road Conditions. A Good Dealership would have asked if you have had them performed and offer to do them at your 30k mile servicing if they have NOT been done yet. Your service invoice shows nothing to indicate they have done this.





At 18k miles, the maintenance schedule says you should:
  • Inspect the front and rear axle fluid, change if using your vehicle for police, taxi, fleet, off-road or frequent trailer towing
If you are using your vehicle for Police, Taxi, Fleet, Off-Road or Frequent Trailer Towing, you should have changed the axle fluid already, if NOT you should have just had the fluid inspected. Did the service writer even ask if you use your vehicle this way or in these conditions? I read this as, if you do NOT use your vehicle in these ways or conditions, you should check the fluid and top it off it if it needs it, but you do NOT need to replace it, unless you find something wrong with the fluid, such as contamination with water and/or dirt. At the very least the service writer should have discussed this with you, and certainly could have suggested you change axle fluid at the 30k mile service, if NOT already done, but informed you, that it’s NOT necessary unless you use the vehicle in those ways/conditions or if they find something wrong with the fluid on inspecting it.

AS WELL, READ BELOW, ACCORDING TO PART NUMBER ON THE SERVICE INVOICE, THEY USED THE WRONG FLUID FOR YOUR AXLES.





At 30k miles, the maintenance schedule says you should:
  • Change the engine oil and engine oil filter
  • Rotate tires
  • Replace the engine air cleaner filter
  • Replace the spark plugs (3.7L and 5.7L Engines)
  • Adjust parking brake on vehicles equipped with four-wheel disc brakes
  • Inspect the transfer case fluid
Again, they can suggest you could do additional things, but they should also inform you that those additional items are NOT called for in the recommended service interval at 30k miles. If they found something wrong with the Transfer Case Fluid, they could recommend you change it, but they should NOT assume that you should just change it even before inspecting it. The Chrysler recommended service interval to change the Transfer Case Fluid and Transmission Fluid is 120k miles, and for Severe Duty, the same conditions as stated above for changing the axle fluid at 18k miles, its 60k miles, but they did it at 30k miles? Usually what they mean by inspecting the fluid is to check for leaks and if the fluid level is low, fix the leak or top off the fluid level, or if by some chance if the fluid got contaminated by water or dirt, then you would change it if something unusual happened. Inspect does NOT mean change the fluid, they specifically state when to change the fluid.





Now, what this Dealership did for your 30k mile servicing:
  • Change Engine Oil and Filter
  • Replace Rear Brakes (Unrelated to 30k mile Service, but still necessary)
  • Replace Air Filter and Service Throttle Body (Service Throttle Body is NOT called for anywhere in the Maintenance Schedule)
  • Engine Tune-Up to Replace Spark Plugs
  • Automatic Transmission Service with Additive Kit (NOT needed until 120k miles or 60k miles for Severe Duty)
  • Front and Rear Differential Case Service with Additive Kit (Inspect, NOT change, unless you use for Severe Duty and then it should have been done 12k miles ago)
  • Transfer Case Service with Additive Kit (Inspect, NOT change NOT needed until 120k miles or 60k miles for Severe Duty)
It appears they failed to do the following, that is recommended by Chrysler at the 30k mile servicing:
  • Adjust parking brake on vehicles equipped with four-wheel disc brakes

But they did do the following, that is NOT recommended by Chrysler at the 30k miles servicing, it is recommended for much later in the maintenance schedule, or never called for as preventative maintenance anywhere in the schedule:
  • Service the Throttle Body
  • Automatic Transmission Service with Additive Kit
  • Transfer Case Service with Additive Kit
  • Front and Rear Differential Case Service with Additive Kit (May or May NOT have been needed, depends on what they discussed with you, and your circumstances, and even worse, they used the wrong fluid to do the service)
Did you have the 12k mile and 24k mile inspections done? Did the Dealer Service Writer ask if you had and then offer to do them? He should have. Axle Fluid should have been inspected or changed at 18k miles. Again, did you do it, or did the Service Writer ask if you had, did he ask about the conditions and ways you use the vehicle and even discuss if axle fluid change was even necessary, it very well may NOT have been necessary.

NOW on to the items on the Service Invoice:





Change Engine Oil and Filter
  • Parts $17.35
  • Labor $22.80
  • Total $40.15
This sounds reasonable, just keep in mind, you could do this yourself in half an hour for $17, or use Mobil1 Synthetic for the oil for superior protection and long life, for only $30 an oil change.





Replace Rear Brakes (Incorrect Terms)
  • Parts $78.42
  • Labor $200.00
  • G.O.G. $23.98
  • Total $302.40
Looks like you had worn out rear brake pads, but judging from the job title, they might have replaced the entire rear brake system. $302.40 to replace rear brake pads, ridiculous, $200 for labor, more than $100 for parts and G.O.G. kits, please, I can do the job myself in less than an hour using top quality pads and likely never go over $100.

Comparison shop, you can find many independent shops that will replace brake pads for a whole axle around $100, parts and labor total. Labor is too high for a 1 hour job for a professional, an amateur can do it in that amount of time. What is the $24 G.O.G. charge for Squeel Brake, anti-squeel shims? Quality pads should come with them and $78 is the cost of quality pads. They mention rotor service, but NOT what they do for that service, did the turn/resurface the rotors? I doubt it, I think you would see additional charges for that, other than checking rotor thickness, thats the only thing I can think they did as a rotor service, and that is arguably part of the pad replacement procedure.





Service Throttle Body and Replace Air Filter
  • Parts $23.85
  • Labor $100.00
  • G.O.G. $64.00
  • Total $187.85
Like the Oil Change, you can get a quality air filter from any auto store for $15 and replace it yourself in 2 minutes, why would you pay a dealer to do this. And look what they did as part of changing your air filter, they serviced the Throttle Body, for an extra $164.00. Something that is NOT called for at all at any time in the Maintenance Schedule. Again, they could suggest it, but they should have informed you that it is NOT called for in the recommended service intervals by Chrysler. Did they even tell you what the Throttle Body needed, what was this was suppose to do? What the heck is a 3k Maintenance Kit for the throttle body?

The best I can tell, all they did was clean the throttle body, something totally unnecessary. Sure, you can argue, that if the throttle body gums up enough, it can cause a rough engine idle, even effect drive-ability a little bit, maybe even causing stalling in the most extreme cases. But, in most cases this is very unlikely to happen and almost never by 30k miles, more like past 100k miles and only then if you're NOT maintaining the vehicle well.

Most vehicles, a 12 year old can clean the throttle body in 10 minutes with a $2 can of throttle body cleaner. Sure, the Commander is Drive-by-Wire, that complicates the Throttle Body Cleaning a bit, BUT, Chrysler has screwed up royally if they turned a simple $2 throttle body cleaning into a $164 servicing only done at the dealership. This is NOT an advancement of technology, its a step backwards. Can you post the dealership name and address, I plan on writing Chrysler about their FOBIK key system, I'd like to include this Throttle Body Cleaning issue, either Chrysler has screwed this up, or this dealership is ripping you off.

Unless there is something you forgot to tell us about this, this is an OUTRAGE. They should have discussed this servicing with you beforehand and been honest about how its NOT called for in the maintenance schedule and how its NOT really that beneficial as a preventative maintenance measure, especially at a $164.00 cost. Again, maybe there is something you forgot to tell us about this, or a problem you had they are addressing with this service, but if NOT, then its likely they ripped you off.





Engine Tune-Up (Incorrect Terms Again)
  • Parts $42.08
  • Labor $150.00
  • Total $192.08
Can we please drop the word "Tune-Up" from the automotive lexicon finally. Your engine computer tunes the motor 30 times a second if NOT more often, service shops do NOT do "Tune-Ups" anymore. They just replace the spark plugs at the recommended interval, they do NOT adjust or tune anything anymore. Yet, I've seen shops and dealerships rip people off, charging more than $100 for a "Tune-Up", listing a dozen adjustments they will do, which in actuality, the engine computer does all those things constantly when the motor is running and in reality they only spend 15 minutes replacing $8 worth of spark plugs.

Ok, they mention tune-up, but it looks like it just describe changing the spark plugs, so they are just using old terms and NOT trying to convince you they are doing something more than just changing plugs, but the labor costs would lead you to believe otherwise.

I hope your owners manual stipulates platinum plugs, because you paid the price of platinum plugs for parts. Almost $200 for replacing spark plugs? You realize a teenager can do this in a half an hour with a $15 socket set from Walmart, just for the cost of the spark plugs. $150 for labor sounds excessive, if you comparison shop, l'm sure you can find shops that would change 8 spark plugs for less than $100 including the price of parts.





Automatic Transmission Service with Additive Kit
  • Parts $112.99
  • Labor $100.00
  • G.O.G. $33.22
  • Total $246.21
The Owners Manual specifically recommends against using additive with the Fluid. Why would they put that in there?

Other than Trans Fluid NOT being recommended at this point in mileage, NOT even close, so they shouldn't have done it, unless you knowingly agreed to do a trans fluid change excessively early, they are charging probably double what I've seen others state they have gotten trans fluid changes from dealers.

It doesn't even look like they did a trans flush, just changed the filter and fluid in the pan. The total fluid capacity for the V8 Trans is more than 7 quarts. Why do they need a G.O.G. Trans Kit to do this? They already charged you for two different filters at more than $30 a piece, and sealant for the pan, what do they need an additional $30+ for a trans kit, whats in it, they already charged you for everything you need to changed the fluid in the pan and filters, and they didn't use enough fluid to do a flush? I can't imagine what extra they would need, but apparently they needed a $30+ kit for some reason.





Front and Rear Differential Case Service with Additive Kit
  • Parts $68.46
  • Labor $150.00
  • G.O.G. $72.84
  • Total $291.30
Still listing additives against the recommendations of Chrysler.

This is a refreshing change, they charge you less for the Axle Fluid, then most shops would, BUT WAIT, check the part number on the Service Invoice, THEY USED THE WRONG FLUID.

That part number is for Mopar Conventional 80W-90 GL5 Gear Lube, but the Owner Manual specifies you must use Synthetic 75W-140 GL5 Gear Lube. Mopar Part Number 4874469. IMO, your worse off then if you had NOT changed the Axle Fluid, but at least you gave them almost $300 to make things worse. I'd say you should go back to the dealership and demand they change the fluid again with the correct fluid, free of charge, but they will likely argue that you pay the difference in the cost of the fluids, since the Synthetic Fluid is likely more expensive than the conventional fluid; BUT, I think that this dealership has proven they are NOT trustworthy enough to even do that, I wouldn't go near this dealership again.

Do you have the QDII 4WD system, with the ELSD's? If so, they should have added the friction modifier, which they did NOT according to the invoice. If you have the QTII or QTI, then you don't need it.

$72.84 for G.O.G. flush kits? WTF? What is in these kits and what do they do with it? The rear axle, opens right up and plenty exposed, I can't imagine what you need $36 worth of kit to flush that out. While the front axle is the opposite, and can't imagine how you can flush that thoroughly with anything but an expensive piece of equipment that would cost way more than $36.





Transfer Case Service with Additive Kit
  • Parts $29.76
  • Labor $50.00
  • Total $79.76
And another listing of additives against the recommendations from the manufacturer, but hey, they are the dealership, the only ones that know better than any other independent shop how to service and repair your vehicle in accordance with the manufacturer better than anyone else.

Looks like you have a V8, so likely you have the NV245 Transfer Case, which they did use the correct fluid. If you have the QT1 system, with the NV140, then they used the wrong fluid.

Either way, the maintenance schedule calls for just inspecting the fluid, NOT changing it, it calls for changing the fluid at 120k miles or 60k miles for severe duty. Unless they explained this to you, and you knowingly authorized changing transfer case fluid excessively early, they ripped you off.

It typically takes less time to change the transfer case fluid than it does the engine oil and filter, but they charge you more than twice the labor of an oil change?
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I suggest you write Chrysler Customer Service and complain, send them a copy of the service invoice and explain in detail the discussion between you and the service writer before authorizing the service, what exactly they recommended and told you, and what exactly you told them you wanted done. If you told them that you just wanted the 30k mile service, and they did NOT explain all these extra above and beyond the recommended service items and that they were NOT part of the recommended 30k miles service, then they arguably defrauded you.

As well, I would write you local Better Business Bureau.

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In the future, read your owners manual, make of list of exactly what it says you need done for your servicing. Research the dealerships in your area, and go to the one with the best reputation for honest dealings with customers and the best prices. If the service writer tries to talk you into things that are NOT on your list, you get a bad feeling about it, or the price qoute seems excessive, then walk away and get a 2nd opinion from another dealer or an independent shop. Remember, you do NOT have to have the Dealer do your servicing to maintain the warranty. You can even do the servicing yourself and the warranty is still 100% valid. No matter who does your servicing, make sure you keep good records and receipts, including if you have the dealer do your servicing. If you do NOT have good records or receipts, does NOT mean they can dismiss your warranty, but if they do try to squirm out of warranty service, having the records and receipts as proof will make things a whole lot easier if you have to argue with them over the warranty.
 

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2007Jeep, any word on this? Have you talked with the Dealership? At the very least I would talk/write Chrysler Customer Service, I don't know if they will try to fix this for you, but at the very least it will get the dealership called on the carpet for doing this.

They should change that axle fluid for you to the correct fluid. Before you go in, call the parts department and ask for a price for a quart of both fluids, the one they used and the one they are suppose to use. I can see the dealership argue they just made a typo on the invoice, they used the right fluid. Being able to tell them the price of the fluid they used is for the wrong fluid and NOT the fluid they were suppose to is evidence it wasn't a typo, they used the wrong fluid.
 

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I found this article on the internet:
http://autos.aol.com/article/2010-best-car-dealer-service/
Study Reveals Which Car Dealers Treat Customers Best said:
The Top Ten, ranked by JD Powers
Dealer Score
Lexus 835
Jaguar 810
BMW 808
Cadillac 806
Acura 805
HUMMER 804
Land Rover 803
Buick 802
Saturn 800
Lincoln 798

Trouble ahead?
Low scores could mean trouble for some brands, including Fiat-owned Chrysler and the up-and-coming Suzuki.
With a relatively old product lineup, Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep dealers are forced to rely more heavily on service to help support their business's bottom line because of slow new-vehicle sales. Low service CSI scores mean more customers will go elsewhere for service, putting the dealerships under even more financial stress as they wait for new products to hit the market.
IMO, the dealerships are hurting, and many are trying to make up the lost money in sagging car sales by gouging the customers when they bring in their vehicles for service.
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NOT to beat a dead horse guys, but something to keep in mind.





At 30k miles, the Owners Manual maintenance schedule says you should:
  • Change the engine oil and engine oil filter
  • Rotate tires
  • Replace the engine air cleaner filter
  • Replace the spark plugs (3.7L and 5.7L Engines)
  • Adjust parking brake on vehicles equipped with four-wheel disc brakes
  • Inspect the transfer case fluid
I just hit 30k miles and did all the 30k mile servicing for $70, because I did it myself. I did NOT skimp on parts, these are top of the line, Mobil1 Synthetic Oil, Hastings Oil Filter, OEM NGK spark plugs, Purolator Air Filter. If you have a V8, you'll have to spend $8 more for 2 more spark plugs, maybe $12 more for 2 more quarts of Mobil1 Synthetic Oil (its more expensive by the quart instead of the 5qt container).

I can replace my rear brake pads for $69 and use Ultra-Premium Ceramic pads with all the anti-noise shims included. Haven't done it on my Commander yet, but lots of other vehicles and an hour is longer than usual to do it.

Yes, if you have a dealer perform the service it will cost more because you have to pay for labor and pay higher dealer mark-up on parts and supplies, but even the posters saying they paid $600-$700 are paying way to much, the dealers are raking you over the coals, NOT only overcharging but doing extra maintenance that is NOT called for, even in the sever duty schedule.

I also performed the earlier servicing procedures myself, so I did NOT have to pull them late at the 30k mile mark. BUT, the only thing called for, other than inspections and oil/filter changes and rotating tires every 6k miles, is to inspect and/or change the axle fluid. And you only need to change the axle fluid if you find something wrong or using your vehicle for sever duty, which off-roading and frequent towing is considered sever duty.

IMO, though, if you only occassionally do light off-roading, you can inspect the fluid and probably should change it, but every 18k miles is excessive for occassional light off-roading. I think it would be reasonable to change the axle fluid, but less often if you just do some occssional off-roading.

I changed my axle fluid for $56 (I bought an extra quart that I ended up NOT using, so you could argue $69), that includes the tube of RTV for sealing the cover and again, I did NOT skimp, I used AMSOIL 70W-140 GL5 Synthetic Gear Lube. If you have the QDII system you will have to pay a few extra bucks for the friction modifier you have to add. I also comparison shopped and bought my AMSOIL where it was cheaper than others.
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Ever man should be able to change the engine oil and filter and air filter themselves. Why would someone pay a dealer to do this. Granted, most service places know this and that is why this is the only thing they will charge a reasonable rate. Because they know people will just do it themselves or go to an independent shop if they charge too much.

Spark plugs, only if you are really mechanically disinclined would this be beyond your ability. Yes, its gotten a little more complicated with the modern vehicles, having to remove the air box, even disconnect and unbolt the coil over plug on some of the motors, BUT, it still is well within most people's ability to change the spark plugs themselves.

But, why even go to the dealer and give them an opportunity gouge you, just do it yourelf. If you do it yourself, you can use superior parts and supplies then the dealer/shop would ever use, protecting your vehicle even better and make it last longer, and it would cost less.

If its just NOT worth it too you to DIY, at least find a good independent shop and do a little comparison shopping for the servicing to get the best deal. It will NOT void your warranty to use an alternative to a dealer for servicing, and even if you do use a dealer, you should keep good records and receipts.

At the very least, inform yourself, the best counter to gouging the consumer is an informed consumer. Read your owners manual, make a list of what you need, go over the list with the servicer and make sure you only authorize that list, NOT what they think is needed, Chrysler/Jeep told you exactly what was needed in the owners manual.
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Yes, you will see post from me doing more than what is called for in the maintenance schedule and I believe that there is NO such thing a "life of the vehicle fluid", that eventually you should change every fluid in the vehicle, unless you believe the life of your vehicle is 100k miles or 6 years, which ever occurs first.

But, if your going to pay the dealers high prices for servicing, its just NOT cost effective to do this above and beyond preventative maintenance. You are better off saving your money for the next car, then pay so much extra for above and beyond preventative maintenance from the Dealer.
 

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Geeze la Weeze. I have 29,532 miles on my '08 Limited. I'm glad I read this thread before taking it in. I now have ammunition to guard myself against the dealer. I'm not very mechanically inclined and I know it would take me 3-4 times longer than any of you to do this stuff myself... and that's not including the many, many hours of research I'd need to do before trying to perform these maintenance's. For someone like me, paying to have it done is much easier than doing it yourself.

Good thread, very informative.
 
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