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Hey all, wanted to share some details on an easier option for removing and replacing the oil pan on the 4.7. Didn't see a comprehensive write-up so though I'd add one.
The service manual calls for lifting the engine to get clearance to remove the pan. I just completed this job without lifting the engine. Rough steps were as follows:
-Remove the bolts holding the structural dust cover where the engine/transmission meet (8 bolts). I could not get the dust cover to remove at this point...not enough clearance between the oil pan and frame cross-member. I just left it "dropped down" as far as it would go to allow access to the rear oil pan bolts.
-Drop the front differential down: Remove the 2 bolts holding the differential mounting bracket to the front frame cross member. Remove the bolt holding the passenger side axle tube bushing. This will allow the diff to "sag" enough to provide clearance for the pan.
-Remove the three bolts holding connecting the passenger side axle tube to the diff. This allows you to "twist" the axle tube enough to provide additional clearance needed when removing/installing the new oil pan.
-Remove all oil pan bolts (18 total)
-Break seal between oil pan and the windage tray that has an integrated gasket. Do not pry between the engine block and the tray...you have to pry between the bottom edge of the windage tray/gasket and the oil pan since the tray is bolted to the underside of the engine....it will NOT come out until you unbolt the windage tray and oil pump pickup tube. I had to use a combination of pry bars/hammer and I ended up using a long (20-22") piece of thin scrap stainless to wedge between the windage tray gasket and oil pan edge on both sides of the pan from front to back and tapped the scrap metal all the way through the seal. It will be fused together from years of being smooshed together.
-Once seal is broken, the oil pan will drop out with some movement of the diff/axle tube, a little patience, and some cursing.
-Clean mating surface on engine block with brake cleaner and a rag. Use a plastic putty knife/scraper as needed to remove any thicker residue.
-Next, remove the 3 bolts/nuts holding the oil pump pickup tube/windage tray and the 1 bolt holding the top of the oil pump pickup tube. The tray and pickup tube will drop out. Replace the o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube (my new windage tray came with a new o-ring). Rebolt oil pump pickup tube and new windage tray in (28 ft lbs on oil pump pickup tube bolt at the top where the o-ring is, 20 ft lbs for the other three bolts/nuts. Make sure the oil pan bolt holes and new windage tray holes line up all the way around when torquing the windage tray bolts.
-Install new oil pan by reversing the process...manipulate diff/axle tube up/down/forward to get new pan up. Position and hand-tighten all 18 bolts (one is a studded bolt that goes in a specific spot). Torque to 11 ft lbs in the sequence stated in the service manual.
-Reposition structural dust cover and install 8 bolts. *Note: there is no way the dust cover would slide back up with the pan installed - not enough clearance between the oil pan and frame cross member. If you slide the dust cover up BEFORE raising the new pan, there is not room to get a torque wrench in for proper tightening. I ended up cutting the dust cover in half with a cutoff wheel and bolting back in in 2 pieces. Yeah, not ideal, but it works.
Notes:
-I'm an intermediate DIYer and found this to be tedious but totally doable.
-You may lose a few ounces of diff oil...can be topped off using the fill plug (14mm hex) on the front of the diff.
-Parts (oil pan/windage tray) were $119 at rockauto, shop quote was $800-900.
-Job took about 6-7 hours total.
-Pics from FSM of structural dust cover, oil pan bolt sequence, axle tube bolts (3 total), and diff bushings/mounts:
The service manual calls for lifting the engine to get clearance to remove the pan. I just completed this job without lifting the engine. Rough steps were as follows:
-Remove the bolts holding the structural dust cover where the engine/transmission meet (8 bolts). I could not get the dust cover to remove at this point...not enough clearance between the oil pan and frame cross-member. I just left it "dropped down" as far as it would go to allow access to the rear oil pan bolts.
-Drop the front differential down: Remove the 2 bolts holding the differential mounting bracket to the front frame cross member. Remove the bolt holding the passenger side axle tube bushing. This will allow the diff to "sag" enough to provide clearance for the pan.
-Remove the three bolts holding connecting the passenger side axle tube to the diff. This allows you to "twist" the axle tube enough to provide additional clearance needed when removing/installing the new oil pan.
-Remove all oil pan bolts (18 total)
-Break seal between oil pan and the windage tray that has an integrated gasket. Do not pry between the engine block and the tray...you have to pry between the bottom edge of the windage tray/gasket and the oil pan since the tray is bolted to the underside of the engine....it will NOT come out until you unbolt the windage tray and oil pump pickup tube. I had to use a combination of pry bars/hammer and I ended up using a long (20-22") piece of thin scrap stainless to wedge between the windage tray gasket and oil pan edge on both sides of the pan from front to back and tapped the scrap metal all the way through the seal. It will be fused together from years of being smooshed together.
-Once seal is broken, the oil pan will drop out with some movement of the diff/axle tube, a little patience, and some cursing.
-Clean mating surface on engine block with brake cleaner and a rag. Use a plastic putty knife/scraper as needed to remove any thicker residue.
-Next, remove the 3 bolts/nuts holding the oil pump pickup tube/windage tray and the 1 bolt holding the top of the oil pump pickup tube. The tray and pickup tube will drop out. Replace the o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube (my new windage tray came with a new o-ring). Rebolt oil pump pickup tube and new windage tray in (28 ft lbs on oil pump pickup tube bolt at the top where the o-ring is, 20 ft lbs for the other three bolts/nuts. Make sure the oil pan bolt holes and new windage tray holes line up all the way around when torquing the windage tray bolts.
-Install new oil pan by reversing the process...manipulate diff/axle tube up/down/forward to get new pan up. Position and hand-tighten all 18 bolts (one is a studded bolt that goes in a specific spot). Torque to 11 ft lbs in the sequence stated in the service manual.
-Reposition structural dust cover and install 8 bolts. *Note: there is no way the dust cover would slide back up with the pan installed - not enough clearance between the oil pan and frame cross member. If you slide the dust cover up BEFORE raising the new pan, there is not room to get a torque wrench in for proper tightening. I ended up cutting the dust cover in half with a cutoff wheel and bolting back in in 2 pieces. Yeah, not ideal, but it works.
Notes:
-I'm an intermediate DIYer and found this to be tedious but totally doable.
-You may lose a few ounces of diff oil...can be topped off using the fill plug (14mm hex) on the front of the diff.
-Parts (oil pan/windage tray) were $119 at rockauto, shop quote was $800-900.
-Job took about 6-7 hours total.
-Pics from FSM of structural dust cover, oil pan bolt sequence, axle tube bolts (3 total), and diff bushings/mounts: