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2006 Limited HEMI V8 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all! My 06 Commander is having some scary issue. I think its a CV but I have read that low fluid could in the front dif could cause vibrations or mounts/bushings being worn?
Here's the symptoms:
1. On miled acceleration, about 30-65 you feel a vibration like you are on ruble strips in the front
2. Recently, there is a grinding and popping noise from the driver side (which made me think CV)
3. When in 4 low, acceleration it feels like the trans is slipping between gears and it "Bangs" or bounces.
4. when in 4 low I hear whining or whirring.
I depend on my Jeep almost everyday for getting to and from work everyday (120 Miles everyday, 5 days a week sometime 6) and am planning on a trip to Tennessee from North Illinois soon. Unfortunally due to financial issues I am on a very very very tight budget. I have a new CV in the jeep and was planning to change it Sunday but given what I seen It might not be a CV? Thanks guys! I need as much info as possible before Monday.
 

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Hey all! My 06 Commander is having some scary issue. I think its a CV but I have read that low fluid could in the front dif could cause vibrations or mounts/bushings being worn?
Here's the symptoms:
1. On miled acceleration, about 30-65 you feel a vibration like you are on ruble strips in the front
2. Recently, there is a grinding and popping noise from the driver side (which made me think CV)
3. When in 4 low, acceleration it feels like the trans is slipping between gears and it "Bangs" or bounces.
4. when in 4 low I hear whining or whirring.
I depend on my Jeep almost everyday for getting to and from work everyday (120 Miles everyday, 5 days a week sometime 6) and am planning on a trip to Tennessee from North Illinois soon. Unfortunally due to financial issues I am on a very very very tight budget. I have a new CV in the jeep and was planning to change it Sunday but given what I seen It might not be a CV? Thanks guys! I need as much info as possible before Monday.
@Tylorert; A couple of questions;

When is the last time you had your transfer case fluid changed?

When is the last time you had front & rear differential fluids changed?
 

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2006 Limited HEMI V8 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@Tylorert; A couple of questions;

When is the last time you had your transfer case fluid changed?

When is the last time you had front & rear differential fluids changed?
Honestly in the 222k probably never. I did change the trans fluid at 219k tho
 

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Honestly in the 222k probably never. I did change the trans fluid at 219k tho
If you have 222k miles on your XK and you've never changed the transfer case fluid or the front & rear differential fluids, that could very well be your problem.

I would have those fluids changed, as soon as you can swing it.
 

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2006 Limited HEMI V8 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have 222k miles on your XK and you've never changed the transfer case fluid or the front & rear differential fluids, that could very well be your problem.

I would have those fluids changed, as soon as you can swing it.
I’ll probably do it tomorrow. What fluids does each part take? Do you want the video of the sound im hearing on acceleration?
 

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You have slack/wear in a drivetrain part somewhere, look at ujoints and the cv driveshaft joint and front cv axles like you stated. Look for rust coming out of ujoint caps or broken/cracked caps. If possible, jack up all four wheels with the truck in neutral and turn your steering wheel all the way to one side and rotate the front wheels with your hands to listen for cv popping, repeat with other side. Also you can take it to a local Firestone or whatever you have there and have them do the diag for you and change whatever needs changing yourself if able. Previous post is great advice just to get your fluids freshed up and make sure levels are where they should be.
 

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You have slack/wear in a drivetrain part somewhere, look at ujoints and the cv driveshaft joint and front cv axles like you stated. Look for rust coming out of ujoint caps or broken/cracked caps. If possible, jack up all four wheels with the truck in neutral and turn your steering wheel all the way to one side and rotate the front wheels with your hands to listen for cv popping, repeat with other side. Also you can take it to a local Firestone or whatever you have there and have them do the diag for you and change whatever needs changing yourself if able. Previous post is great advice just to get your fluids freshed up and make sure levels are where they should be.
I appreciate your additional knowledge & insight @BradOcean

Thank you much.
 

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Jeep Commander 2008 4x4 4.7 V8
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Hey all! My 06 Commander is having some scary issue. I think its a CV but I have read that low fluid could in the front dif could cause vibrations or mounts/bushings being worn?
Here's the symptoms:
1. On miled acceleration, about 30-65 you feel a vibration like you are on ruble strips in the front
2. Recently, there is a grinding and popping noise from the driver side (which made me think CV)
3. When in 4 low, acceleration it feels like the trans is slipping between gears and it "Bangs" or bounces.
4. when in 4 low I hear whining or whirring.
I depend on my Jeep almost everyday for getting to and from work everyday (120 Miles everyday, 5 days a week sometime 6) and am planning on a trip to Tennessee from North Illinois soon. Unfortunally due to financial issues I am on a very very very tight budget. I have a new CV in the jeep and was planning to change it Sunday but given what I seen It might not be a CV? Thanks guys! I need as much info as possible before Monday.
While I didn't have all of those issues I have recently been around the block with most of them. My 2008 Commander has 235K and I don't think many of these items had been replaced. Here are the solutions:

1. Rumble on acceleration (and on deceleration from speeds above 65 mph)
The rear bushing for the front differential was effectively GONE. Well, at least the bulk of the rubber that was supposed to be there was gone and this allowed the rear of the front differential case to move freely and any imbalance in the front driveshaft was allowed to turn into a wobble which sounded like a rumble).
The fix was replacing the bad bushing. This is not an easy fix and the bushing is largely not serviceable. Unless you have some solid mechanical skills I would leave this to a professional. Once repaired the rumble was gone.

2. Grinding and Popping
I was getting these from the front driveshaft CV joint failing. Sounded just like either of the front half shaft CV joints failing. Replaced the driveshaft and the grinding popping was gone, along with number 4.

3. Bangs and Bounces
Did not have this, but did have a seriously loud bang or clunk when shifting between forward and reverse. Also a loud clunk when the transmission would downshift. This was the back of the differential case slamming into the remains of the bad bushing in item number 1.

4. Whining and Whirring
Again, the front driveshaft was making these noises before a short period before the CV joint failed. The whining I got was basically the metal of metal destruction of the CV joint after the CV boot flew apart and the grease dried out.

Hope that gives a little additional data to the problem. My response was to just replace almost everything under the front end (new lower control arms with the new bushings and ball joints, new rear differential bushing, new front driveshaft). I figured if I was going to be under there I would get it all at once. Drives and sounds like new now.
 

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2006 Limited HEMI V8 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
While I didn't have all of those issues I have recently been around the block with most of them. My 2008 Commander has 235K and I don't think many of these items had been replaced. Here are the solutions:

1. Rumble on acceleration (and on deceleration from speeds above 65 mph)
The rear bushing for the front differential was effectively GONE. Well, at least the bulk of the rubber that was supposed to be there was gone and this allowed the rear of the front differential case to move freely and any imbalance in the front driveshaft was allowed to turn into a wobble which sounded like a rumble).
The fix was replacing the bad bushing. This is not an easy fix and the bushing is largely not serviceable. Unless you have some solid mechanical skills I would leave this to a professional. Once repaired the rumble was gone.

2. Grinding and Popping
I was getting these from the front driveshaft CV joint failing. Sounded just like either of the front half shaft CV joints failing. Replaced the driveshaft and the grinding popping was gone, along with number 4.

3. Bangs and Bounces
Did not have this, but did have a seriously loud bang or clunk when shifting between forward and reverse. Also a loud clunk when the transmission would downshift. This was the back of the differential case slamming into the remains of the bad bushing in item number 1.

4. Whining and Whirring
Again, the front driveshaft was making these noises before a short period before the CV joint failed. The whining I got was basically the metal of metal destruction of the CV joint after the CV boot flew apart and the grease dried out.

Hope that gives a little additional data to the problem. My response was to just replace almost everything under the front end (new lower control arms with the new bushings and ball joints, new rear differential bushing, new front driveshaft). I figured if I was going to be under there I would get it all at once. Drives and sounds like new now.
VERY Informative. I have concluded the front drive shaft as the failure. However, due to cost and current life events I cannot replace it. My question, can I remove it for a week without causing catastrophic damage? If I remove it will anything leak out of the DIF or TC? Im aware Ill be stuck in RWD with no TCS / VSS. I drive an hour for work everyday and the binding/grinding is getting pretty bad. I see that there are some bolts that I can remove but wanted to check with fellow owners.

If you have 222k miles on your XK and you've never changed the transfer case fluid or the front & rear differential fluids, that could very well be your problem.

I would have those fluids changed, as soon as you can swing it.
I did the transfer case, old fluid looked really clean and not burnt of contemned
You have slack/wear in a drivetrain part somewhere, look at ujoints and the cv driveshaft joint and front cv axles like you stated. Look for rust coming out of ujoint caps or broken/cracked caps. If possible, jack up all four wheels with the truck in neutral and turn your steering wheel all the way to one side and rotate the front wheels with your hands to listen for cv popping, repeat with other side. Also you can take it to a local Firestone or whatever you have there and have them do the diag for you and change whatever needs changing yourself if able. Previous post is great advice just to get your fluids freshed up and make sure levels are where they should be.
The issue I THINK is between the shaft and CV. You can move the front drive shaft without moving the CV and you can move the CV hub? without moving the shaft. The Commander was on the ground when I did this and in park. It was more or less play in the shaft and CV. I could not rotate the shaft at all. all wheels on the ground.
. Probably serviced before. DIF is getting done next pay check.
 

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2006 Commander Limited, 5.7 Hemi QD2
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My question, can I remove it for a week without causing catastrophic damage? If I remove it will anything leak out of the DIF or TC? Im aware Ill be stuck in RWD with no TCS / VSS. I drive an hour for work everyday and the binding/grinding is getting pretty bad. I see that there are some bolts that I can remove but wanted to check with fellow owners.
The Commander 4 WD will not move the Commander if one of the drive shafts is removed. It will only move if in 4WD LOW - Top speed about 35 MPH and on non paved surface.
 

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Jeep Commander 2008 4x4 4.7 V8
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VERY Informative. I have concluded the front drive shaft as the failure. However, due to cost and current life events I cannot replace it. My question, can I remove it for a week without causing catastrophic damage? If I remove it will anything leak out of the DIF or TC? Im aware Ill be stuck in RWD with no TCS / VSS. I drive an hour for work everyday and the binding/grinding is getting pretty bad. I see that there are some bolts that I can remove but wanted to check with fellow owners.


I did the transfer case, old fluid looked really clean and not burnt of contemned

The issue I THINK is between the shaft and CV. You can move the front drive shaft without moving the CV and you can move the CV hub? without moving the shaft. The Commander was on the ground when I did this and in park. It was more or less play in the shaft and CV. I could not rotate the shaft at all. all wheels on the ground.
. Probably serviced before. DIF is getting done next pay check.
Technically you can drive without the front drive shaft, but I would not recommend it except in an emergency. If you put the system in 4-Low it will lock the transfer case and you will be able to drive using only the rear wheels. HOWEVER! DO NOT EXCEED 30 MPH IN 4-LOW! Sorry for the all-caps, but they make a big deal of this in the manual and for good reason. It is really just a limp home solution if you need to drive with a failed or removed front drive shaft.

From what you've said it does sound like you have both a bad front driveshaft and a bad front CV joint. Sorry to hear that. The driveshaft is a pretty easy replacement with just a bunch of bolts to remove at the front a rear of the shaft. There are no leak points in that process as the driveshaft bolts to external flanges on the transfer case and the front differential housing. You will need a floor jack or something similar to support the transfer case as you will need to remove the transmission/transfer case cross member to get the driveshaft out. This pretty easy as well, but the transfer case must be support while the crossmember is out.

Hope that helps and let me know if I can answer any questions on those!
 

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2010 Jeep Commander 'limited' 4x4, 3.7 L v6
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Hey all! My 06 Commander is having some scary issue. I think its a CV but I have read that low fluid could in the front dif could cause vibrations or mounts/bushings being worn?
Here's the symptoms:
1. On miled acceleration, about 30-65 you feel a vibration like you are on ruble strips in the front
2. Recently, there is a grinding and popping noise from the driver side (which made me think CV)
3. When in 4 low, acceleration it feels like the trans is slipping between gears and it "Bangs" or bounces.
4. when in 4 low I hear whining or whirring.
I depend on my Jeep almost everyday for getting to and from work everyday (120 Miles everyday, 5 days a week sometime 6) and am planning on a trip to Tennessee from North Illinois soon. Unfortunally due to financial issues I am on a very very very tight budget. I have a new CV in the jeep and was planning to change it Sunday but given what I seen It might not be a CV? Thanks guys! I need as much info as possible before Monday.
I hate to tell you this but, it sounds like a bad torque converter.
I had these symptoms and that's what it was.
 

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2006 Limited HEMI V8 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I hate to tell you this but, it sounds like a bad torque converter.
I had these symptoms and that's what it was.
That was my original diag but it started making clicky ticky metal to metal sounds. Read more of the thread.
Technically you can drive without the front drive shaft, but I would not recommend it except in an emergency. If you put the system in 4-Low it will lock the transfer case and you will be able to drive using only the rear wheels. HOWEVER! DO NOT EXCEED 30 MPH IN 4-LOW! Sorry for the all-caps, but they make a big deal of this in the manual and for good reason. It is really just a limp home solution if you need to drive with a failed or removed front drive shaft.

From what you've said it does sound like you have both a bad front driveshaft and a bad front CV joint. Sorry to hear that. The driveshaft is a pretty easy replacement with just a bunch of bolts to remove at the front a rear of the shaft. There are no leak points in that process as the driveshaft bolts to external flanges on the transfer case and the front differential housing. You will need a floor jack or something similar to support the transfer case as you will need to remove the transmission/transfer case cross member to get the driveshaft out. This pretty easy as well, but the transfer case must be support while the crossmember is out.

Hope that helps and let me know if I can answer any questions on those!
Why won’t it move without the front drive shaft? Is there a sensor or something? It should be roughly 50/50 power split. I would expect reduced torqe/acceleration. I’ve been reading it’s due to traction control and locking but what if I turn off traction control? Technically it should lock 4wd right?
 

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2006 Commander Limited, 5.7 Hemi QD2
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Nope - will not move except in 4WD low which locks all 4 wheels.
 

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Right I get that but why? What is physically causing it? Why wont it move. I need details
Your transfer case is an “open differential” unless the system is in 4Low. When the transfer case is switched to 4Low, the slide collar in the transfer case locks the front and rear output shafts together forcing the transfer case front and rear yokes to turn at the same speed. When you are in 4High, the torque from the input of the transfer case will find the path of least resistance which if you have the front driveshaft removed would be the front output yoke. That yoke will just spin and spin. No torque will be applied to the rear axle.
 

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2007 Commander Overland 5.7 Hemi, 220000 miles and not moving right now. Needs a front drive shaft.
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My 07 Commander was vibrating at about 40 mph and above for about 2 days. I backed it out of it's parking place and heard a loud clunk. The Commander just sat there and clunked whenever i gave any gas. Looked under the Jeep, the front drive shaft rear cv was totally gutted. The balls and cage could not be found. The shaft was an easy fix like described. The drive shaft had the original green tag on it, so I assume it's the original. It only lasted 222,000 miles.
 

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06 _ 5.7L _QD2 _ 135k _ 5100s 2.5" _ 265x70x17 _ stock wheels
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I heard a lot of stories about needing to drop the crossmember to remove the shaft, and took it as a challenge. Despite seeming impossible at first glance, there is room (on my hemi) to angle the front up high enough outboard, and above the front diff, to get the CV end past the crossmember.
 

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Loosening the cross member bolts dropping it slightly worked great for me.
 
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