Jeep Commander Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if anyone has had to replace their heater hoses. The location of the hose on the engine seems to be almost impossible without removing the intake manifold. Is there a different way to approach this problem?

Thanks!
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
17 Posts
I was wondering if anyone has had to replace their heater hoses. The location of the hose on the engine seems to be almost impossible without removing the intake manifold. Is there a different way to approach this problem?

Thanks!
@Bunkie Are you replacing because they started leaking down at the heater core?
If so, there is a way around replacing the whole hose. There's a post on here somewhere by a guy named heffercow where he left the hose in and replaced the the stock heater core connection with a standard t fitting and some hose clamps. I came across it the other day cause mine has been randomly dripping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,544 Posts
My local mechanic fix mine using a standard T several years ago, no problems since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
My local mechanic fix mine using a standard T several years ago, no problems since.
I did this fix last summer, no leaks since. I used a plastic T fitting (Gates brand I think) from O'Reilly's. There was plenty of extra hose already there to cut out the old fitting, add some hose clamps and put in the new fitting. Everything was 3/4" if I remember correctly, but don't quote me on that. The fitting was only a few dollars plus a jug of coolant. Was an easy repair.

Some have recommended brass fittings for added durability, but the plastic one seemed durable enough to me.

Make sure you use the correct coolant, not that universal crap!

This fix saved me a fair bit of time and money, as those hoses are rather expensive and difficult to replace. As mentioned above, I actually got this idea from heffercow. Unfortunately there won't be any more good ideas from him because a certain mod banned him for basically no reason at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
223 Posts
Ive heard of this fix, have the slow drip, and need to find the size so i can cut and reinstall in one shot. If someone runs across that thread, please link it. !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I tried the plastic T fitting. The only problem was it didn't have large enough barbs on the on the tubes so I couldn't get the clamp tight enough. I was afraid I would crush the fitting. I am not a big fan of worm gear hose clamps anyway. It blew off while in the driveway. So I ordered a replacement hose. Only to find how difficult it is to replace.

I am thinking about cutting the hose from the engine and putting a straight brass barbed hose connector with Gates Power Grip SB Clamps between the old hose coming out of the engine and cutting the new hose to attach to the other end of the straight connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
The aftermarket gates and continental brand hoses and tee fitting replacements are much better than the OEM hose and tee assembly as the Tee fitting and swages are metal and won't deteriorate with heat and time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
I tried the plastic T fitting. The only problem was it didn't have large enough barbs on the on the tubes so I couldn't get the clamp tight enough. I was afraid I would crush the fitting. I am not a big fan of worm gear hose clamps anyway. It blew off while in the driveway. So I ordered a replacement hose. Only to find how difficult it is to replace.



I am thinking about cutting the hose from the engine and putting a straight brass barbed hose connector with Gates Power Grip SB Clamps between the old hose coming out of the engine and cutting the new hose to attach to the other end of the straight connector.


The spring clamps which I believe is what you are talking about are much better than worm screw clamps. You'll have to pull the intake to get at those fittings so your idea sounds like a good one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Finally was able to get back to repairing the Heater hose. Decided to try the T fitting again. This time I got a brass T fitting. Also got a better quality of hose clamp. I was able to get the clamp really tight this time. I attached pics of the collapsed plastic fitting.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
So I have to ask - how did you guys go about doing this? I’ve bought a 3/4” brass t junction and have hose clamps, but it is a nightmare to get at.
Did you remove from the heater core and from below, then cut the stock t junction out (cut the hose ends) and clamp the open ends around the barb?
Thats my plan - just would like to hear how y'all approached it in case there is something easier I’m not thinking of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
So I have to ask - how did you guys go about doing this? I’ve bought a 3/4” brass t junction and have hose clamps, but it is a nightmare to get at.
Did you remove from the heater core and from below, then cut the stock t junction out (cut the hose ends) and clamp the open ends around the barb?
Thats my plan - just would like to hear how y'all approached it in case there is something easier I’m not thinking of.
I Put a new blade in my razor and cut right next to the factory TEE. Be careful not to cut anything else as it was very tight and a pain. The only thing easy is that it’s easier than replacing the entire line. But there was nothing easy about just replacing the TEE either.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Appreciate the response. I was looking at it again last night and I think that’s going to be my strategy. Hard to get in the with the razor blade, but I have a small but very sharp pocket knife I’m going to try first.
And yes - good point that at least it’s easier than trying to replace that whole line under the intake. I hope it doesn’t come to that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Well it’s done. Pain to get to for sure but seems to work well enough. Thanks to all who posted the idea here.

I ended up using a sharp little pocket knife, cut the top off first, then the firewall side was easier to get to. Once that side was done you can pull the lower hose/old “T” off to the side to cut the lower off. Then I put it back together in the reverse order. Bled down the system (didn’t take a ton of coolant, less than half a gallon) and took it for a spin. Seems to be holding well and heat is working.

also - there is a small negative wire going through The area that seems to go to the ecu. I zip tied that and the big wiring harness up to the ac lines above this temporarily to keep them out of the way. Gives just a tiny bit of extra room.


41591
3AC658C4-4D47-48EB-B931-B89B2630FF65.jpeg
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
15,619 Posts
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top