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Discussion Starter #1
I am finishing up on replacing a piston on my 2007 commander 5.7 hemi. Have it together on the stand, filled with oil. I am turning the engine over via the crank bolt and was hoping/expecting to see oil filling the oil filter. So far I see none. Not even sure this is something I should expect. Anyone here know if turning it over by hand is sufficient to pump oil up to, possible through, the oil filter? I was hoping to put it in this weekend but am a little leary since I see no oil pumping yet.

Thanks.
 

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Old Days

in the old days the oil pump was driven off the distributor and all you did was pull the dist. and the gear below and turn the oil pump drive by hand or with a drill, I'm not sure about now.


Swanny
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is the way I am used to it also. I did find a way though. Hopefully if someone else is in this situation this may help them.

Where the oil filter is there is a cast iron plug just above a sensor. The plug takes an 8mm hex head wrench.
I rotated the engine so they were facing mostly up and removed the plug and the sensor.
Then I used a funnel and kept adding oil to the hole where they were. Eventually the cast iron plug hole filled up and I reinserted the plug.
While filling where the sensor was I rotated the engine and eventually oil would "pump" out the whole.
I replaced the sensor and then leveled the engine.
I then removed a valve cover and kept rotating the engine until I could see oil coming up through the valve train.

Now I feel better about having the engine "oiled".
 

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Sounds like a good idea, do you know how much oil you used while doing this and did you do a complete rebuild or just replace the piston?

Mark
 

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in the old days the oil pump was driven off the distributor and all you did was pull the dist. and the gear below and turn the oil pump drive by hand or with a drill, I'm not sure about now.


Swanny
For an engine on the stand, that's the way to go for sure.

Does this engine even have a cover where the dizzy would have been? Or has this one always been distributorless?

Related question, what's the best way to get oil in the system after an oil change before actually starting it. On our 4.7L Commander, I usually shut down for the oil change by pulling the fuel pump relay and letting it starve out. After changing the oil and filter, I'll crank on it with no fuel pressure until I see the oil pressure gauge move up. Then I'll give it a break while I re-install the fuel pump relay. That seems to work, but I'm wondering if there's a better option.

On other engines, it's easier to disconnect the low voltage connector at the coil (GM small block Vortec engines including the 4.3L V6, and Dodge Magnum engines from the mid to late 1990's), or disconnect the crank position sensor (Mercedes Benz from the 1980's and 1990's), or unplug the hall effect sensor wires at the distributor (older VW's from 1980's and 1990's).

I never fire an engine after an oil change unless there's oil pressure first. If the design allows, I install oil filters full of oil, but that's not an option with the Jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The issue was it dropped an intake valve seat and smashed the piston and scored the wall. I had a sleeve put in the cylinder and bought a new rod/piston combo. The engine only has 100k miles and looked almost new except for that cylinder.

I filled the pan to the proper level on the dip stick.
 
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