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Discussion Starter #1
Wondering if anyone has any info on swapping AC compressor on the hemi. Shop wants 1300 to swap everything, I'm not paying that. So figure I could just swap it myself, but wanted to know how much work I'm biting off first. Found all sorts of info for the smaller 8 cylinder and the 6 cylinder but nothing for the hemi. Yes I will have a mechanic drain the system first, if anything is even left in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
If only there was a way to search for stuff like this..


Maybe you should have a mechanic do it.
Maybe you should back off the sass a little bit...

I actually did search the internet and YouTube and this forum. In fact, I actually found that video before I posted anything. Problem is that isn't our hemi... Our hemi has the AC compressor located on the bottom right of the engine not the top right. Guessing that was a different year range or something. That's why I was asking if anyone knew how hard it was to access. There's a lot of crap in the way. Just wondering if anyone had first hand experience since I couldnt find anything. Seriously thank you for trying to help though, I do appreciate it.

And again the mechanic is wanting $1300 to install maybe $300 worth of stuff. I can handle some bloody knuckles to save a grand. I'm not just some dummy with a wrench set, I'm well versed in working on jeeps. Just wanted to get a heads-up on the size of the task, not so much the difficulty.


This is what our hemi looks like, for anyone who might find this and need it.
http://www.wkjeeps.com/engine/serpentine_57_61_001.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
wanting $1300 to install maybe $300 worth of stuff.
A compressor alone is $300+ FYI

Crawl underneath, pull the lines, unbolt it and replace. Super simple right?

Get more than one estimate.
Like I said, I'm going to do the work. I've done engine swaps, tranny swaps, transfer case rebuilds, as well as ac compressors on a few different vehicles. just never on a hemi or on a commander. On my buddies Volvo for instance we had to pretty much dismantle most of the front clip. I know the compressor itself is like four bolts and some ac lines. I was just wondering if the amazing engineers at Jeep made it a labyrinth of parts that had to come off first. Like the headlights for instance, you ever tried to pull those things off a commander? So much more difficult than it needs to be, the whole bumper has to come off. Either way I'll try it out and report back maybe if someone else comes along this can serve as guidance.

And I've shopped around rockauto has the whole ac compressor kit for $310 with condenser and $290 without. Both of those include expansions valves front and rear, dryer, pag oil, and o-rings. Where were you looking that the compressor alone was $300+?
 

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Rockauto is where I got mine from too. And less than $300.

I just replaced drier, condenser, compressor, and front expansion valv too.

Remove belt.

You have to remove power steering pump first - 3 bolts (well I did anyway) I disconnected one hose and was able to tie it out of the way to the left.

4 bolts for the compressor and 2 for the lines. Best to get from under the jeep. Once bolts and hoses removed, you can yank it out the top of the engine bay.

Condenser was pretty easy. You have to remove the trans lines. I didnt have special tool and just used small flat tip screwdriver.

Front expansion valve and drive pretty easy too.

I tried to replace rear expansion valve too but I think you have to remove the rear subframe to do so. Ran out of time for that...

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Rockauto is where I got mine from too. And less than $300.

I just replaced drier, condenser, compressor, and front expansion valv too.

Remove belt.

You have to remove power steering pump first - 3 bolts (well I did anyway) I disconnected one hose and was able to tie it out of the way to the left.

4 bolts for the compressor and 2 for the lines. Best to get from under the jeep. Once bolts and hoses removed, you can yank it out the top of the engine bay.

Condenser was pretty easy. You have to remove the trans lines. I didnt have special tool and just used small flat tip screwdriver.

Front expansion valve and drive pretty easy too.

I tried to replace rear expansion valve too but I think you have to remove the rear subframe to do so. Ran out of time for that...

Good luck.
Perfect, this is exactly want I was looking for. Glad to hear it's nothing crazy. Will look into that rear expansion valve. If I can't get to it oh well. Thanks for the info drm!
 

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while you have the compressor out, you have great access to the steering rack bolt that loosens over time. Check it for tightness if you have any front steering clunks...
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
while you have the compressor out, you have great access to the steering rack bolt that loosens over time. Check it for tightness if you have any front steering clunks...
Dang it @drm where were you like 24 hours ago... Haha. Swapped it all yesterday. Luckily no steering clunks just the floppy front dif.

For anyone who finds this, here are some pointers. And again this is only for the hemi.

Compressor
For access to compressor lines and bolts it helps immensely if you remove the battery and the battery tray. Steering pump does need to be unbolted but not necessarily removed. The back two bolts cannot cannot be removed with the compressor in place. Which means they also can't be installed unless it's in place.
So you have to put them in the compressor, then slide it into place without them falling out, then tighten.

Drier
Drier is pretty easy nothing crazy there. Easiest part of the whole swap.

Condenser
There are tranny cooler quick connects go into it as well. There is a special tool to get them off but a very fine flathead or Philips head will work too. Just find the ends of the snap ring, poo it out of the channel, and then work your way around. Once ring is off the lines will pull out. Also IF YOU HAVE THE FACTORY TOW HOOKS INSTALLED the condenser cannot be removed. You MUST remove the tow hook brackets on order to get the condenser out. In order to do that you are supposed to remove the bumper. Two of the nuts are accessible, one is not. Instead of removing bumper I drilled a hole big just enough for an extension and just went through the bumper. You can't see the holes unless you are looking and it saved me probably 2.5 hours I would have spent dicking with that bumper cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update.
Swapping everything went well. Evac and recharge went well. Problem was when I picked it up the AC wasn't really working. Air was cold but barely blowing even though blower was definitely on high. Went to check blower motor just in case and found my recirc door blocking the air inlet. Propped it into the closed position (no outside air) and boom ac works like a champ. Right now I'm trying to fix my recirc door gear... Found a new one for like 87 cents, problem is they want almost $10 to ship it. Wth? So instead I spent 9 dollars at home Depot and am trying to get rig this one. Sometimes I think I'm too stubborn for my own good.
 

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I need to fix my recirc door gear. If you have pictures I love the help. I would like to just put it in Recirc all the time at the very least.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I need to fix my recirc door gear. If you have pictures I love the help. I would like to just put it in Recirc all the time at the very least.
@rblapham not sure which part of yours broke but here is what mine looked like and what I did. The upper gear has a shaft that clips into the door. The shaft broke off of the gear where they meet (1st and 2nd pic). I ended up drilling a tiny hole though the base of the shaft piece and ran a number 4 by 1 inch long screw through from the shaft side and a nut in the hollowed out part of the gear side. The screwhead is too wide to fit into the shaft and the but is too wide to be pulled through from the inside. Im hoping the pressure pulling the shaft towards the gear will keep it from rotating. After I, filled all the parts I could with plastic epoxy tightened the nut down and then filled with more epoxy. So far it seems to be working. One thing to be mindful of is the push tab on the shaft. I tried to scrape it some of the epoxy so it could still be depressed, I did an ok job but it was definitely way harder to insert into the door than it used to be. the lock tab is being blocked from being able to be depressed by the epoxy. But like I said it's in place and working. I'm sure eventually some other part of the gear will give way. When it does I will just screw (or wedge) the recirc door shut so no outside air can get in.

Let me know what questions you have or pics you need and I will do what I can. I took this thing apart and put back together like 10 times in the past 4 days.
 

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neat...i tried all that but without the screw and of course it didnt work.


@rblapham i just cut a piece of metal coat hanger and bent into a u-shape and permanently held the door in the recirc position. this can be done by taking the fan out and propping the door up.
 
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