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Hey guys looking for some input. A while back I had the rough country 2" spacer lift on my 2007 Commander. Well I had some funny noises going on with the front end took it too the dealership and they told my my steering rack was shot. Had approximately 60,000 miles on the car at the time. Well I had an extended warranty and they replaced it all, they didn't notice the spacer lift:) I worried that the lift had caused the issue so I removed it. Well it looks like it's time now to replace the shocks rear ones are starting to leak. I've been looking at the Old Man Emu set up. So my questions are. Any of you guys with this set up experience any negative side effects from the lift as far as the steering components. Also would you recommend getting the JBA upper control arms or maybe save a few bucks and get perhaps a set of Moogs. Also the guys that have the lift any downside to getting the kit with the rear rocky road shocks instead and saving like $300? Thanks for any input guys just looking for some advice before dropping the money. Otherwise maybe I'll just do regular shocks and be done with it.
 

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Get OME HD springs front and rear, and bilstein 5100's rear, and 4600hds front. 5100's and 4600's are internally the same shock, just 5100's are chrome finished and longer for the rears. 5100 front struts are adjustable and actually will lift your front end a minimum of .75." You'll need longer shocks in the rear, and stock length in the front hence the mix and match recommendation.

JBA UCA isn't necessary with just OME springs. I'd get the MOOG "Problem Solver" UCA's with the all metal ball joint and zerk fitting.

That should save you a few hundred $$
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok great thanks for the advice. How much lift overall do you think I will get. And do you think the steering rack issue I had was just a fluke and not caused by the lift?
 

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Get OME HD springs front and rear, and bilstein 5100's rear, and 4600hds front. 5100's and 4600's are internally the same shock, just 5100's are chrome finished and longer for the rears. 5100 front struts are adjustable and actually will lift your front end a minimum of .75." You'll need longer shocks in the rear, and stock length in the front hence the mix and match recommendation.

JBA UCA isn't necessary with just OME springs. I'd get the MOOG "Problem Solver" UCA's with the all metal ball joint and zerk fitting.

That should save you a few hundred $$



Hi guys, so i'm about to embark on a lift for my Jeep and I know there are lots of threads out there which I have already scoured but I wanted to ask a few questions specific to my set up and needs.

I was all set to go for the 2" OME HD set up when I saw your post above and @TwoBobsXK post from another thread (below):

http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/53-suspension-lifts/68033-bilstein-4600-strut-ome-hd-spring-more-suspension-lift-questions-2.html

I'm a little late to the conversation but I do have real world experience with OME HD springs and Bilstein shocks on my '06 Hemi...

First, the lift comes from the springs - shocks have little to do with lift or ride height with the exception of shocks like the Bilstein 5100's which have adjustable ride height. On my Hemi, the springs lifted me about 4 inches in the front and around 3 inches in the rear, making my XK perfectly level. The ride is outstanding - much better than the stock ride, very controlled and not at all harsh. The OME springs are progressive, meaning they give you a smooth and controlled ride during normal driving but will absorb and rebound well when pushed hard off road or heavily rutted roads.

I have the 4600 series Bilstein shocks and they work very well with the OME springs. The installation is pretty straightforward, though as noted earlier if the lower clevis bolt is seized in the control arm bushing it becomes a real bear. In my case I was fortunate enough to be able to remove the lower clevis bolt and didn't have to resort to a grinder or sawzall to cut it out. Since my XK had about 110,000 miles on it when I did the project I decided to replace the lower control arms as a unit and lathered up the clevis bushing with anti-seize for ease of removal in the future. The rear shock and spring replacement was easy, but to make it smoother I disconnected the sway bar link so the axle could drop further without hitting the fuel tank. DO NOT attempt to compress and assemble the front shock and spring assemblies! Far too dangerous for portable spring compressors in the garage. I take mine to a local shop where they assemble them for $40 and then I bring it back to them for an alignment once I've done the installation of springs and shocks. They've done the job for me on two Jeeps now and no way I'd try to do that job at home - and I do all my own wrenching.



My Jeep, driving and what I want to achieve:
- Got the 2006 Hemi, 110,000 QDii
- I've got 1.25" spacers
- Extra weight is my family of 5 (3 young kids), Northern Innuit dog and bags (not everyday)
- Pretty much all road driving aside from some tracks nearby to get to areas for dog walks, not for offroading
- I def want to stiffen up the ride as can't stand the bounce I'm currently getting
- I'd like to be able to do is run 265/75/17s on the stock wheels - Tacomaworld suggest that would be 32.65
- I don't want to mess around with new ucas (unless my ball joints are gone when I will probably just go for the Moog problem solvers)
- I don't want to mess up geometry or driveshafts, I want to keep the lift as simple as possible.

My questions are:

1 - is there any reason you would go for Bilstein shocks over the OME shocks when using the OME HD coils?
2 - if I go with OME coils am I best to stick to OME shocks?
3 - do the OME HD springs level the Commander as I see conflicting posts on this with people using spacers still to lift the front?
4 - would going with the OME HD coils and the Bilstein 5100s or 5125s front and back give me more height than just going with OME set up? Or would you go with 4600s at the front
5 - if I'm after the most stable ride on undulating roads and round corners which should I go for?
6 - is there another option I'm not considering (don't want to just use spacers as I really want the better quality (stiffer) ride)
7 - I saw a post on this thread talking about getting a 5" lift with the OME, what is that all about? Is there a safe way of getting more lift out of the OME setup?


Thanks for any and all thoughts on this....
 

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1 - is there any reason you would go for Bilstein shocks over the OME shocks when using the OME HD coils?
2 - if I go with OME coils am I best to stick to OME shocks?
3 - do the OME HD springs level the Commander as I see conflicting posts on this with people using spacers still to lift the front?
4 - would going with the OME HD coils and the Bilstein 5100s or 5125s front and back give me more height than just going with OME set up? Or would you go with 4600s at the front
5 - if I'm after the most stable ride on undulating roads and round corners which should I go for?
6 - is there another option I'm not considering (don't want to just use spacers as I really want the better quality (stiffer) ride)
7 - I saw a post on this thread talking about getting a 5" lift with the OME, what is that all about? Is there a safe way of getting more lift out of the OME setup?
1/2. Bilstein shocks are better known, but ultimately they aren't the best choice for OME springs. 4600s aren't designed for a spring lift, and while they'll still do fine up front, they are slightly shorter than OME struts. OME struts are also valved to match their springs and will work better together.

3. OME springs may or may not level the Commander. They didn't for me; I still had a front rake similar to stock.

4. Going with 5100s in the back won't net you any more height, but it will up front. However, it'll probably bring you up too high; I ran OME springs with a 7/8" spacer up front and sat at 23.5" hub to fender. I needed an RC spacer in the rear to level it all out. You also can't go this high without aftermarket UCAs.

5. For the most stable ride, go with OME HD springs and matching shocks. Since they are designed to work together, the damping qualities will be best with that setup.

6. If you're willing to shell out significantly more money, JBA does make coilovers and rear springs, as do smaller companies like CB Engineering and Jeeperf. However, unless you're planning on dune racing or something, those options probably aren't worth the money, and will probably give you a softer ride anyway.

7. The most you can get out of OMEs is around 5" before you start having serious probems. However, you won't get to this point without JBA or RRO UCAs. The stock UCAs will contact the springs at this height, regardless of what ball joints you put in there. The extra height will also put a lot of extra strain on the steering rack and half shafts.
 

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1/2.

3. OME springs may or may not level the Commander. They didn't for me; I still had a front rake similar to stock.

7. The most you can get out of OMEs is around 5" before you start having serious probems. However, you won't get to this point without JBA or RRO UCAs.


Great, thanks for the concise reply. Regarding these two points.

3 - if it doesn't level it how soon into the build can you tell and what would I have to do? I'm just thinking about time and labour costs (as I will have to have a professional do this with me helping) of then undoing all the work to fit in a spacer.

7 - How are people getting above the 2" lift with the OME kit (I couldn't work this out from the other threads) I wouldn't want to go much higher than 2" and definitely not mess about with affecting the drivetrain etc. but to be able to get some 265/75/17s on would be great, while keeping the great ride that the OME supposedly gives.
 

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3 - if it doesn't level it how soon into the build can you tell and what would I have to do? I'm just thinking about time and labour costs (as I will have to have a professional do this with me helping) of then undoing all the work to fit in a spacer.

7 - How are people getting above the 2" lift with the OME kit (I couldn't work this out from the other threads) I wouldn't want to go much higher than 2" and definitely not mess about with affecting the drivetrain etc. but to be able to get some 265/75/17s on would be great, while keeping the great ride that the OME supposedly gives.
You won't be able to tell how much lift you'll get from the springs, or whether they'll level the Jeep, until everything is installed and settled. Some people claim to see as much as 3.5" of lift up front level with the rear from just the OME setup, while others like me saw almost exactly 2" front and rear.

After installing, you can try to slightly increase lift by throwing a 3/8" spacer up front and stacking spring seats in the rear. However, you probably won't be able to run 265/75/17s without minor rubbing.
 

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I went with 5100s all around and OME HD springs and my XK sits level. I don't have the third row anymore (so that's some extra weight off the back).
Also, load in the trunk will make it squat even with the HD springs, so take your average load into account.
 

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3 - if it doesn't level it how soon into the build can you tell and what would I have to do? I'm just thinking about time and labour costs (as I will have to have a professional do this with me helping) of then undoing all the work to fit in a spacer.

7 - How are people getting above the 2" lift with the OME kit (I couldn't work this out from the other threads) I wouldn't want to go much higher than 2" and definitely not mess about with affecting the drivetrain etc. but to be able to get some 265/75/17s on would be great, while keeping the great ride that the OME supposedly gives.
You won't be able to tell how much lift you'll get from the springs, or whether they'll level the Jeep, until everything is installed and settled. Some people claim to see as much as 3.5" of lift up front level with the rear from just the OME setup, while others like me saw almost exactly 2" front and rear.

After installing, you can try to slightly increase lift by throwing a 3/8" spacer up front and stacking spring seats in the rear. However, you probably won't be able to run 265/75/17s without minor rubbing.

Ok cool, thanks.

It looks like my left front (passenger UK) side is sagging by about a 1/4 inch. Could a dodgy lower ball joint do this? Think I may have to go for new lower and upper control arms for piece of mind, plus at 111,000miles they’ll be in bad state anyway after another 30,000 with a lift.

Was thinking about going for the moog problem solvers as only doing the 2inch lift. This a safe bet?

What do you mean by ‘stacking spring seats’?

When you say minor rubbing, I realise it’s impossible to tell but are you suggesting minor rubbing at full lock or more serious than that?
 

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Ok cool, thanks.

It looks like my left front (passenger UK) side is sagging by about a 1/4 inch. Could a dodgy lower ball joint do this? Think I may have to go for new lower and upper control arms for piece of mind, plus at 111,000miles they’ll be in bad state anyway after another 30,000 with a lift.

Was thinking about going for the moog problem solvers as only doing the 2inch lift. This a safe bet?

What do you mean by ‘stacking spring seats’?

When you say minor rubbing, I realise it’s impossible to tell but are you suggesting minor rubbing at full lock or more serious than that?
The lower ball joint shouldn't have any effect on sag. It's probably worn out anyway, but I don't expect you'll see any change in height from changing them.

The Moog ball joints will probably wear out more quickly just as any stock type ball joint will. The angle is just a bit high with any 2" lift. That being said, they'll still do fine and you should get 50k+ miles out of them if you keep up on maintenance. I'm not sure if the Moogs are greasable, but a greasable ball joint is always the best option for longevity.

By spring seats I'm referring to the rubber spring isolators. You can stack a couple of them on top of each other to get a little lift.

I'm guessing it'll be more serious than just full lock. When I ran a tire that tall, I lost 1/2 to 1 turn of the wheel each way.
 

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Ok cool, thanks.

The lower ball joint shouldn't have any effect on sag. It's probably worn out anyway, but I don't expect you'll see any change in height from changing them. Also on this point my Jeep definitely has a slight pull to the left when driving.

By spring seats I'm referring to the rubber spring isolators. You can stack a couple of them on top of each other to get a little lift.

.
Ok, what could cause sag then, wouldn’t want that to be an issue down the line that I could have sorted now! my shocks are quite new (14,000 miles). Springs weren’t changed at the same time.
 

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Ok, what could cause sag then, wouldn’t want that to be an issue down the line that I could have sorted now! my shocks are quite new (14,000 miles). Springs weren’t changed at the same time.
I'm not sure you're seeing sag with 1/4 inch of height difference. Springs are manufactured within a tolerance, so you could just be seeing a minor difference in spring rate. Springs are really the only thing holding your Jeep at its ride height, so between differences in weight over each spring and manufacturing tolerances, 1/4 inch isn't abnormal.
 

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I'm not sure you're seeing sag with 1/4 inch of height difference. Springs are manufactured within a tolerance, so you could just be seeing a minor difference in spring rate. Springs are really the only thing holding your Jeep at its ride height, so between differences in weight over each spring and manufacturing tolerances, 1/4 inch isn't abnormal.
Ok, I won't lose anymore sleep over that then! Thanks
 

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Very excited now as I've put in my order for The OME HD set up, got it for £550 (not paying VAT as putting it through my mate's company) so super happy about that price as everywhere I checked was £850 plus...

Now to make the decision on the JCB UCAs or just going for Moog adjustable, I'm torn as not going to be doing any really off roading but would like the option. The UCAs or LCAs have never been changed and I know I'm going to have to replace one LCA at least as the ball joint is a little buggered.

Then theres checking/ replacing the following:
spring isolators, sway bar bushings, lower control arm bushings, tie rod end links, and bump stops, front sway bar end links, coil isolators front and rear, the front upper strut mounting plate and mounting bolts.
 

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I think that aftermarket UCAs are absolutely the way to go; this is especially true if you're planning a modified OME. The stock UCAs are simply too short to allow the proper travel required of a modified OME setup even with offset ball joints; at full droop, even JBA UCAs made contact with the spring on my modified OME setup.

JBA UCAs are definitely the most popular around, for good reason. Quality control is pretty good, and from what I've heard customer service is also good.

RRO UCAs are similarly designed and slightly cheaper, though from what I understand they have some quality control issues.

One option I haven't seen much of are JeePerf UCAs; they're by far the most adjustable, and I imagine they can be adjusted to acommodate a ridiculous amount of lift. The price is killer though, so unless you're building an incredibly custom rig I can't imagine a reason for them.
 
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