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Discussion Starter #1
Ok..

I have been wanting to ask this for a while..

For those you who have a 2" Tera or similar style lift.

Does it feel like your front is stiffer or have more "preload" on it. I am not sure if I am describing it correctly but My XK does not take big bumps well at all. It almost feels like a pogo stick.

Normal driving it is fine. Big bumps suck. I want to know if a replacement OLD MAN EMU strut designed for a lift would change this?

Jim
 

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Not sure about the rough ride, but my truck does have a balance issue, but I think that's related to the wheels, not the lift. My truck does ride stiffer, but I'm also using Bilsteins instead of stock shocks.
 

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Torque at ride height

I've experienced similar issues on other vehicles before. One thing I always do when installing these budget type lift kits and Leveling kits(on the full size trucks) is to loosen all the suspension arms, track bar, basically any suspension component that uses a rubber bushing and retorque them at the new ride height. When the factory builds the vehicle this is how they are torqued(Viper Excluded those get setup at design height not ride height) at ride height. It may not seem like much but by not loosening them you are putting a preload on the rubber bushings which can in fact make the suspension seem "stiffer". It's always the little details which will make the difference in the big picture
 

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the bushings have a metal sleeve on them. the outer tabs that hold the suspension to the bushing in the arm only tighten around the metal sleeve, not the rubber. they will not get bound up unless the sleeve has rusted to the bolt.

if you are adding in a spacer on the spring it will make the spring stiffer and make the spring rate go up. so your ride will suffer.
 

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Uh, 4.7?
I must respectfully disagree with you on this one.

Crossfire is correct and the method is substantiated in any service manual.

For example, if the upper ball joint is removed from the spindle, you will note that the arm will not drop. If it did, it would indicate the bushing has sheared from the collar, or the control arm is loose and the bushing collar is not pinned between the mounting ears as designed.
Original equipment bushings are poured around the inner sleeve and within the outer sleeve.
I have only seen bushings as you have described as the high performance greaseable nylon type such as Energy Suspension Etc.

Not meant to offend, but milkman should utilize Crossfiretek's method.

Rob
 

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Once I have the cash I'm going to get the Superlift, I hear the ride quality's much better as it keeps the geometry more in line with stock. I won't replace the balljoints like Phunkeydude did, don't want to deal with the potential failure issues.
 

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I think this is on topic enough..

With respect to the balljoint failures – on this forum I’ve seen one failure (Tom) and a guy with a WK (different forum) had one fail. Both rigs are lifted. One balljoint was aftermarket and one was stock.

If I’m wrong on this, someone please correct me.

The factory designed droop limiter on the front of the XK is the strut itself. When it reaches its extension limit, it stops the downward travel of the A-arms. When you add a spacer above the strut, you have now “used” an amount of the downward travel of the A-arms (thus gaining lift), but the strut is still in its normal ride-height position within its travel range. Now when the front suspension drops, the strut still has all its original extension travel left, but the A-arms only have a portion of their downward travel left before something else reaches a limit. In this case, the upper balljoints reach their angle limit and pull apart. I suspect the lower balljoints aren’t far behind.

I don’t know that the aftermarket balljoint is weaker than stock, I suspect its stronger. I think if you exceed the maximum design angle on any balljoint, something has to give. The weakest point is where the joint is pressed together, and it’ll pop right open.

Thoughts?
 

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Kmax,

You are absolutely correct.
If 1" or more is added to the installed length of the strut,the upper ball joint stud will meet the lip of the joint socket, causing it to become the drop limiter.
Ultimately the stud will shear during full extension due to side loading

To prove the theory, both sway bar links must be removed at the lower control arm.
Then with wheel removed and a jack under the control arm [The vehicle must be on jack stands obviously ] access and remove the 4, 18mm head nuts that retain the upper strut mount to the body.
Next, lower the lower control arm that is being held by the jack. You will find that upon full extension and then beyond, the upper strut plate will drop away from the body slightly more than 1".
You'll notice the 4 studs will not even drop out of their mounting holes.
Well at this point the drop limit has become the lip of the upper ball joint against the stud. This is the absolute mechanical limit if the joint.
If you disengage the ball joint from the knuckle at this time there is about another 2" of drop before the lower control arm strikes the frame at its pivot points.

Thats why the 4" kits relocate the lower arm,repl upper arms,lower the front diff etc. It's the only way to safely exceed 2 to 2.5 inches of lift at the hub center.

Don't forget that a 1" change in installed strut length, will equal 2" at spindle center. This is because the strut meets the control arm about center between pivot and ball joint.
This also equates to a 2" change at the ball joint mounting point.

Rob
 

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4.7commander said:
if you are adding in a spacer on the spring it will make the spring stiffer and make the spring rate go up. so your ride will suffer.
There are two ways to add a spacer (for more lift)....either a top-out spacer or a pre-load spacer. A small spacer shouldn't have any real noticeable affect on stiffness though...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SO?

Can anybody answer my question yet?

Did going to the OME front lifted struts greatly improve ride quality and the ability to take bumps without feeling like a pogo stick?

Jim
 

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milkman said:
SO?

Can anybody answer my question yet?

Did going to the OME front lifted struts greatly improve ride quality and the ability to take bumps without feeling like a pogo stick?

Jim
I would suspect that the OME lift would provide a better ride as they have most likely accounted for the change in suspension geometry to give the best ride possible.
 

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4.7 (Get Lost 4x4) is absolutely correct in saying that by adding a spacer to the spring, the spring rate will change. Causing the vehicle to have a more stiffer ride. I know there is more then one place to add a spacer on the vehicle to acheive lift but im talking about adding it to where the spring is.
 

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milkman said:
SO?

Can anybody answer my question yet?

Did going to the OME front lifted struts greatly improve ride quality and the ability to take bumps without feeling like a pogo stick?

Jim
I am going to say yes because they are designed for a 2 inch lift. So your stock springs plus a spacer will work in conjunction with the OME Struts better then with stock struts.
 

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The RR lift is good because it adds a spacer on top of the strut tower. The spring remains in the factory setup. Any change to the factory suspension will result in a different ride quality.
 

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adamag25 said:
The RR lift is good because it adds a spacer on top of the strut tower. The spring remains in the factory setup. Any change to the factory suspension will result in a different ride quality.
Right, and that's the difference between a pre-load spacer and a top-out spacer. A lot of people don't understand the differences and then end up disappointed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have the Teraflex lift.. normal ride is ok.. Its just when I hit big bumps or whashboard style bumps... it just plain sucks..

SO I have the spacer on top of the strut..


I am not unhappy with the rear's ride

I wanted to just put in the front struts and spings from OME and hope for the best..

I just wanted to get input on somebody who has done it and get their real world experience.

Jim
 

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TR4Runner said:
Right, and that's the difference between a pre-load spacer and a top-out spacer. A lot of people don't understand the differences and then end up disappointed.
Well then, explain the differences between those and then the OME type lift.

I do not know enough about any of them to make a decision.....start a new thread if you dont mind...honestly, I do want to know the difference in the lifts by type and mfg if at all possible.....
 

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I don't think you will notice a big difference between the OME and the tera spacers unless you get a setup like the 4" style lift (new upper A-arms, relocate lowers, front diff drop, ect.) that way the suspension will act exactly the same as the stock setup.
 
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