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Discussion Starter #1
hmm, just installed an aftermarket stereo in an 07 with BA. when i initially wired everything up and gave it a test run everything worked fine. I then went and bolted down the reciever,put the dash back on, tried it again and there is no sound coming out of the speakers. Put the stock radio back in and it worked fine. So I double checked all the wiring and still nothing. any ideas?
 

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hmm, just installed an aftermarket stereo in an 07 with BA. when i initially wired everything up and gave it a test run everything worked fine. I then went and bolted down the reciever,put the dash back on, tried it again and there is no sound coming out of the speakers. Put the stock radio back in and it worked fine. So I double checked all the wiring and still nothing. any ideas?
Fuse on the AMP. Check 1 and 14
 

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If it was a blown fuse, why would the OEM radio work fine when he put it back in?

Some aftermarket radios have fuses in the back of them, check it didn't blow in the radio itself.

Did you connect amplified output of your aftermarket radio to the input of the OEM amp??

I'm no expert and I'm sure there are better experts than I on this board, take their word over mine.

BUT, I'm pretty sure if your going to use an AMP, you have to feed the "line level" i.e. NON-amplified output of the aftermarket radio to the amp.

As well, check the impedances match. I "think" its internal protection on the amps (including the internal amp on the head unit) that cause the sound to shut down for mismatches in impedance or short like malfunctions, like a blown speaker.

Thats what I experienced with a blown speaker and couple head units sitting on my shelf, swapped them around, some worked fine for a few minutes then would shut down all sound to the speakers, others would shut down just one side of the amp, either front or left.

NOT saying you have blown speaker, saying you may have a mismatch somewhere between the feeds from head unit to amp to speaker, lets the sound flow at low level for a few moments, but soon overloads and shuts down the sound.
 

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hmm, just installed an aftermarket stereo in an 07 with BA. when i initially wired everything up and gave it a test run everything worked fine. I then went and bolted down the reciever,put the dash back on, tried it again and there is no sound coming out of the speakers. Put the stock radio back in and it worked fine. So I double checked all the wiring and still nothing. any ideas?
I'll bet that when you bolted everything down, you pinched a wire and blew a fuse on the new unit, as Mongo said, since when you reinstalled your old unit everything worked. :eek:rangehat:
 

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And thats another point that dhh3 got me thinking about with the pinched wire suggestion.

How good of a job did you do splicing the aftermarket radio wiring into the adapter harness?

Its possible, smashing all that wiring together as you pushed the head unit into the cavity and tightened it down, that you shorted or disconnected a weak or exposed splice, causing your problem.

There are plus's/minus's to soldering wire splices, I do it and use shrink wrap and wrap electric tape over the shrink wrap. Only drawback it makes a brittle section in the wiring, with lots of movement that might cause problems later, I have yet to have something go wrong, but its possible.

Look over your splices again, maybe reconnect the aftermarket radio and shake, squeeze, twist the section of wiring with all the splices, see if you can induce the short, reconnection, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fuse in the back of the new unit is good (right below where the harness plugs in). The unit powers up and everything. It did have sound for like 10 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
And thats another point that dhh3 got me thinking about with the pinched wire suggestion.

How good of a job did you do splicing the aftermarket radio wiring into the adapter harness?

Its possible, smashing all that wiring together as you pushed the head unit into the cavity and tightened it down, that you shorted or disconnected a weak or exposed splice, causing your problem.

There are plus's/minus's to soldering wire splices, I do it and use shrink wrap and wrap electric tape over the shrink wrap. Only drawback it makes a brittle section in the wiring, with lots of movement that might cause problems later, I have yet to have something go wrong, but its possible.

Look over your splices again, maybe reconnect the aftermarket radio and shake, squeeze, twist the section of wiring with all the splices, see if you can induce the short, reconnection, etc.
Yeah, the first time I used the heat shrink connectors with elec tape. Then, when I re-wired I soldered and used heat shrink tubing.

I agree that something could have been pinched, but could something have blown inside the unit itself?
 

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You didn't answer the one question, it sounded like you might have done this:

Did you wire the amplified output of the head unit to the input of the factory amp?

-OR- does your head unit have "line level" output for amps, that you wired to the input of the factory amp?

I could see how, at low volume double amplified, the sound would work for a few minutes, but turn it up or run it more than a few minutes, it overloads the amp and it shuts itself down.
 

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Yeah, the first time I used the heat shrink connectors with elec tape. Then, when I re-wired I soldered and used heat shrink tubing.

I agree that something could have been pinched, but could something have blown inside the unit itself?
Is there an internal circuit breaker that needs to be reset? Some times, they work on heat - they reset themselves after they cool off. I'm just throwing ideas out there for you. :eek:rangehat:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You didn't answer the one question, it sounded like you might have done this:

Did you wire the amplified output of the head unit to the input of the factory amp?

-OR- does your head unit have "line level" output for amps, that you wired to the input of the factory amp?

I could see how, at low volume double amplified, the sound would work for a few minutes, but turn it up or run it more than a few minutes, it overloads the amp and it shuts itself down.

I connected the blue/white amp turn on input on the interface to the blue/white output on the reciever.
 

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You said it worked for 10 minutes, before you mounted it or after?
SPEAKER
Any diagnosis of the Audio system should begin with the use of a scan tool and the appropriate Diagnostic Service information.

Refer to the appropriate wiring information.

WARNING: Disable the airbag system before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, seat belt tensioner, side airbag, or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the airbag system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the airbag system. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment and possible personal injury.

CAUTION: The speaker output of the radio is a “floating ground” system. Do not allow any speaker lead to short to ground, as damage to the radio may result.


1. If all speakers are inoperative, check the radio fuses in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
2. Check the amplifier fuse (if equipped) in the junction block. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as required and replace the faulty fuse.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the radio receiver ON. Adjust the balance and fader control controls to check the performance of each individual speaker. Note the speaker locations that are not performing correctly. Go to Step 4.
4. Turn the radio OFF. Turn the ignition OFF. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. If vehicle is not equipped with a amplifier, remove the radio receiver. If the vehicle is equipped with an amplifier, disconnect the wire harness connectors. There are two connectors. The one on the body harness has body speakers only. The other on the instrument panel harness has the instrument panel speakers, battery, ground, and CAN. Go to Step 5.
5. Check both the speaker feed (+) circuit and return (-) circuit cavities for the inoperative speaker at the wire harness connector for continuity to ground. There should be no continuity. If OK, go to Step 6. If not OK, repair the shorted speaker feed (+) and/or return (-) circuits(s) to the speaker as required.
6. Disconnect wire harness connector at the inoperative speaker. Check for continuity between the speaker feed (+) circuit cavities of the radio receiver wire harness connector or if equipped, the amplifier wire harness connector and the speaker wire harness connector. Repeat the check between the speaker return (-) circuit cavities of the radio receiver wire harness connector and the speaker wire harness connector. In each case, there should be continuity. If OK, replace the faulty speaker. If not OK, repair the open speaker feed (+) and/or return (-) circuits(s) as required.
 

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*NO RESPONSE FROM AMP (AMPLIFIER)
For a complete wiring diagram Refer to Section 8W.
Possible Causes

(A116) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT OPEN OR SHORTED

(Z514) GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN

(D55) AND (D54) CAN B BUS CIRCUITS OPEN

AMPLIFIER
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Diagnostic Test
1. TEST FOR INTERMITTENT CONDITION
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Turn the ignition on.

NOTE: Ensure the IOD fuse is installed and battery voltage is between 10.0 and 16.0 volts.

With the scan tool, select ECU view.

NOTE: A red X will be next to the module that is not communicating, indicating that the module is not active on the Bus network. A green check indicates that the module is active on the Bus network.

Does the scan tool display a red X next to the module?

Yes

Go To 2

No

The no response condition is not present at this time. Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring for chafed, pierced, pinched, and partially broken wires and the wiring harness connectors for broken, bent, pushed out, and corroded terminals.

2. (A116) FUSED B(+) CIRCUIT OPEN OR SHORTED
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Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the Radio Amplifier C2 harness connector.
Using a 12-volt test light connected to ground, check each (A116) Fused B(+) circuit.

Does the test light illuminate brightly for each circuit?

Yes

Go To 3

No

Repair the (A116) Fused B(+) circuit for an open or short.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).

3. (Z514) GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Using a 12-volt test light connected to 12-volts, check each (Z514) ground circuit.

Does the test light illuminate brightly for each circuit?

Yes

Go To 4

No

Repair the (Z514) ground circuit for an open.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).

4. (D55) AND (D54) CAN B BUS CIRCUITS OPEN
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NOTE: One open circuit will not cause this condition.

Measure the voltage between the (D54) CAN B Bus (-) circuit and ground.
Measure the voltage between the (D55) CAN B Bus (+) circuit and ground.

Is there any voltage present on either circuit?

Yes

Replace the Radio Amplifier in accordance with the service information.
Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).

No

Repair the (D55) and (D54) CAN B Bus circuits for an open. Inspect the connector for damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It worked for 10 min before I mounted it. After I mounted it, I stood back, smiled at my work, pat myself on the back, turned the reciever on, didnt work, I cried a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Fuses
Fuses

Will it start? When i worked on mine before, the battery drained down and things stopped working properly..

All fuses are good, stock radio is in the vehicle now working great. It will start with aftermarket stereo. Fuse in the PAC unit is good, and red light comes on in the little blue box. Could it maybe be a problem communicating with the amplifier with the aftermarket stereo since the stock radio works fine?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I figure the only thing I can do now is check to see if there is 12v at the amp turn on (blue/white). If there is 12v, then I will just wire a speaker up straight from the output of the aftermarket radio to see if there isnt something internally wrong with the aftermarket head unit.

Also, the instructions say that with the BA commanders you have to wire the front outputs of the aftermarket radio to the rear inputs of the connector, Which i did not do. I wired the front outputs to the front inputs ect..
 

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I am a advanced certified Geek Squad Autotech lead installer at best buy. It sounds like you either have an issue with your remote turn on wires (I usually connect all BLUE and BLUE/WHITE wires together. NOT blue with pink if thats present on your aftermarket harness. If you have the Boston amplified system, you need a factory amp integration harness... just bought mine for my 07 commander with Boston system. It'll run you usually 100-150 bucks depending on brand. Try for the Scosche or Axxess brands. You'll need an aftermarket radio with TWO RCA outputs at a minimum. You'll need the front and rear outputs on the aftermarket deck. Sometimes the rears are switchable for rear OR subwoofer output. This way, the deck signal output is low level (RCA), and not high level (reg spkr wires). The factory amp needs low level signal to run stable. Hope this helps!
 

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Have you tried bench testing your aftermarket radio to see if it is putting out "sound"? That might be your problem and not the factory amp/system.
 
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