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Hi all,

Lift, ucas, bilsteins, wheels n tires installed. I love it! Drives quite nice!

Question- I know Marlin (JBA) says alignment should be dead nuts on with his UCAs, but my 4wd shop had a problem with a half a degree of camber on alignment. Let me repeat. Half a degree. Lol.

The truck drives fine, and tracks perfectly, but being the anal maniac that I am, I always want things perfect.

Did anyone have the same camber issue with alignment that lifted and ran jba ucas? My 4wd mechanic said that everything was tight underneath. No loose bolts, no bent frame, bushing good, lower ball joints replaced a few months ago.

Thanks,
Trevor
 

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My shop here has not ever mentioned anything about not being able to properly align my XK. Now that being said, I would not be concerned about one half of a degree - as long as everything looks right & you're driving / tracking fine and don't have any pulling to one side or the other, I'd call it good.
 

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Ive heard that a lot of shops have a hard time aligning these rigs for whatever reason.


From the service manual:

Camber and caster angle adjustments involve changing the position of the lower control arm with the slots in the
frame brackets to move the lower control arm inwards or outwards for proper adjustment. This can be achieved by
using a long pry bar with a curved tip and inserting the pry bar into the lower control arm frame brackets
and prying inwards or outwards.
NOTE: Camber and caster adjustments must be made at the lower control arm Do not use the upper control
arm for Camber and Caster adjustments.
NOTE: When the lower control arm pivot bolts are loosened the lower control arm will normally go outwards
automatically with the weight of the vehicle.
CASTER
Moving the rear position of the lower control arm at the frame in or out, will change the caster angle significantly
and camber angle only slightly. To maintain the camber angle while adjusting caster, move the rear of the lower
control arm in or out. Then move the front of the lower control arm slightly in the opposite direction.
CAMBER
Move both the front and rear of the lower control arm together in or out. This will change the camber angle significantly
and caster angle slightly.
After adjustment is made tighten the lower control arm bolt & nuts to FRONT169 N·m (125 ft. lbs.) and the REAR
88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.).
TOE ADJUSTMENT
The wheel toe position adjustment is the final adjustment.
1. Start the engine and turn wheels both ways before
straightening the wheels. Secure the steering
wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
2. Loosen the tie rod jam nuts (3).
NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for
one-half of the total toe position specification.
This will ensure the steering wheel will be centered
when the wheels are positioned straightahead.
3. Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the inner
tie rod (4) as necessary.
4. Tighten the tie rod jam nut (3) to 75N·m (55 ft. lbs.).
5. Verify the specifications.
6. Turn off engine.

DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
PREFERRED CASTER
4.0°
CAMBER
2 0.25°
TOTAL TOE-IN
+ 0.25°
RANGE 3.55° to 4.45° + 0.15° to - 0.70° 0° to + 0.5°
MAX RT/LT DIFFERENCE 0.5° 0.5° 0.5°
REAR AXLE
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION
PREFERRED CAMBER
-.25°
THRUST ANGLE

TOTAL TOE-IN
+.25°
RANGE 0° ± 0.5° 0° ± 0.25° 0° + 0.5
 

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Hi Lucky and all,

I have attached the printout from the alignment shop. looks like teh final camber is off and I was told there is no more adjustment in the lower arms to be had. This is more then half a degree this is 0.16° left frnt and 0.27° right front. So its over about 2° by the 0.40° max listed on this Bosch readout.

Again- the truck tracks nicely, but I dont want to be wearing out tires every year. Obviously getting a second opinion is in order. Just FYI, the shop that build my Jeep is very reputable and I have had them work on all my lifed vehicles and my hot rod. This is an alignment shop that they use after lifting vehicles. This shop see TONS of lifted jeeps (but not WK or XK's :wink3: )

Anyone have a similar situation?

Trevor
 

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Thought I would share my less than great experience with wheel alignment up here in BC at Kal Tire. I have the RC lift, and just now got around to installing a set of JBA UCAs over the weekend. Decided to replace the lowers as well, but after I got the uppers in, I realized that I was going to have to pull the wheel spacers, calipers, rotors and also pop the CV axle out of the wheel hub in order to get the lowers out, and that was a bit more of my days off than I wanted to spend working on the ol' Jeep with no air tools. So, took it in and instructed them to install my new lower control arms from Rock Auto and then do a wheel alignment.

Surprisingly, the Mander drove pretty darn well and seemed to be pretty close to aligned when I drove it in to Kal Tire with the new UCAs. After they replaced the lowers, aligned it and I got it back, the alignment was obviously way out and MUCH worse than when I brought it in, and their alignment report sheet said as much (Camber and Caster were way out, and in some cases actually WORSE than when they put it on the machine after the work was done). They said my CV axles were on their way out, and the lady at the front told me that since the CV axles were bad, that they couldn't align it properly. I didn't say anything at that point and figured I would be bringing it back the next day if all was not well, but I knew what she was telling me was complete BS. CVs ARE in rough shape, and I'll get to that soon, but that doesn't have a damn thing to do with the alignment.

Ended up bringing it back the next day, and left it while I went on a work trip. Called in today and was told that since there were no cam bolts, that the Camber and Caster were not adjustable! Sorry, but also complete BS. I got into a short lived argument with her about this (she very obviously didn't know what she was talking about and was simply regurgitating what the tech wrote on my work order), she eventually asked if I would like to talk to the technician, which I did.

He told me the same thing, saying that he figured that year of commander wasn't adjustable since he couldn't see any cam bolts to make the adjustment. I then began reading to him the information in the service manual about the lower control arm bolts needing to be loosened and the control arm moved with a pry bar to make those adjustments. I even went so far as to email him that section of my Jeep factory service manual. He said he didn't know about any of that, and that their manuals didn't make any mention of adjusting them that way. He had just set the toe and called it good, figuring that there were no more adjustments that could be done.

Unreal that even after the second try, that someone being paid to do alignments, doesn't know how to do an alignment! Perhaps the Commander is a different setup than others and it is somewhat less common than most other vehicles, but I would imagine that the Grand Cherokees are the same, and there sure are plenty of those around. I'm sure that tech is competent, but he obviously relies on the manuals that his company provides him to do his job, and they are sadly lacking in this case!

So, if anyone tells you they can't adjust the Camber or Caster, they probably just don't know what they're doing. Show them the wheel alignment section of the factory service manual where it specifically tells them how to adjust it.

They're going to try it a third time in the morning, armed with the knowledge that I had to give them to do their job, so we'll see how it goes.
 

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Question- I know Marlin (JBA) says alignment should be dead nuts on with his UCAs, but my 4wd shop had a problem with a half a degree of camber on alignment. Let me repeat. Half a degree. Lol.
@Commando75 What Marlin says is to tell the technician to get the tow and camber dead nuts on and let the caster stay where it falls. See what he says about the alignment at 4:27 of the video.

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