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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Need new shocks, all stock currently and replacing with all stock.

A walkthrough would be great, if not hopefully the main questions I have can get answered.

I did see one with pics but photobucket wasnt showing them.

I got loaded shocks which is supposed to be easier. My main concern is if anything needs to be disconnected on the lower area in order to get the new assembly in, and or any other tips, that seems to be the hard part.

The other concern is all of the electronics on the top drivers side, can I work around them or do they have to be moved, and if so how?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Need new shocks, all stock currently and replacing with all stock.

A walkthrough would be great, if not hopefully the main questions I have can get answered.

I did see one with pics but photobucket wasnt showing them.

I got loaded shocks which is supposed to be easier. My main concern is if anything needs to be disconnected on the lower area in order to get the new assembly in, and or any other tips, that seems to be the hard part.

The other concern is all of the electronics on the top drivers side, can I work around them or do they have to be moved, and if so how?

Thanks in advance!
The electronics on the drivers side are easily moved. there are a few nuts in the fuse box that can be removed and you can simply push it out of the way without disconnecting any electronics.
 

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There are about 3 10mm nuts that hold the fuse boxes to the inner fender, then they can push up to gain access to the top strut nuts.


On the passenger side simply remove the 2 or 3 nuts/bolts that hold the overflow tank in place and move it out of the way. You have 4 nuts / studs on the top of each strut.
One bolt on the bottom of the strut / top of fork.


One very large possibly corroded and stuck bolt on the bottom of the fork. Good idea to hit that with a lot of PB Blaster / WD-40 type stuff (technically speaking) for a couple of days before you start.


Then all that is left is the upper ball joint... the nut should come off easily and then you just have to whack it until it separates, I usually tie the spindle to something... like the upper A arm... so that it doesn't just flop over and rip the break hose.... This step should actually be done early on to relieve pressure from the spring.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks so much guys.

I had searched before but didnt find much, and while waiting for responses here I did wind up finding some useful information.

Great question Lucky, and the only one I forgot to ask about.

My jeep has 240K and I’ve owned it since 70K and never touched the front suspension. Is there anything I would be stupid not to replace at the same time? Im ok with going back in after and replacing easy things later, but anything that has to go in when the new shocks are going in, I want to do.

What can you guys tell me about those parts? I think I recall the UCA is easier to replace entirely, while the LCA can simply have the bushing replaced. If so are either job difficult to do? Looks like a couple of bolts on the UCA and is the LCA bushing hard to deal with?

TIA!
 

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I will be performing the front coil over swap soon. Here is a video I found:

 

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My jeep has 240K and I’ve owned it since 70K and never touched the front suspension. Is there anything I would be stupid not to replace at the same time? Im ok with going back in after and replacing easy things later, but anything that has to go in when the new shocks are going in, I want to do.
What can you guys tell me about those parts? I think I recall the UCA is easier to replace entirely, while the LCA can simply have the bushing replaced. If so are either job difficult to do? Looks like a couple of bolts on the UCA and is the LCA bushing hard to deal with?
You'll definitely want to replace the UCA while the strut is out, since you can't remove the bolts while the strut is in place. It's also easier to get the strut in and out if you loosen the UCA bolts first, since you'll be able to push it up and out of the way more easily.

The LCA has a fairly accessible ball joint, but you'll need a ball joint press to get the old one out, and to press the new one in. You can rent one at most auto parts stores if you don't want to buy one.

Since you're doing all the work and will need an alignment anyway, you may consider replacing your outer and inner tie rods. When your front end is off the ground you can try to wiggle them and see how much play there is.

Finally, take a look at the condition of your half shaft boots. The half shafts are easier to remove with the front end apart, so if they need replacing, this would be a good time to do it.

As far as tearing the front end apart, since you're replacing everything anyway, rather than tying the spindle to something to keep stress off the brake line, I'd recommend removing the caliper altogether. You can use a hanger or a bungee cord or something to hang it somewhere secure and out of the way and you'll have a much easier time removing everything with it out of the way.
 

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There are about 3 10mm nuts that hold the fuse boxes to the inner fender, then they can push up to gain access to the top strut nuts.


On the passenger side simply remove the 2 or 3 nuts/bolts that hold the overflow tank in place and move it out of the way. You have 4 nuts / studs on the top of each strut.
One bolt on the bottom of the strut / top of fork.


One very large possibly corroded and stuck bolt on the bottom of the fork. Good idea to hit that with a lot of PB Blaster / WD-40 type stuff (technically speaking) for a couple of days before you start.


Then all that is left is the upper ball joint... the nut should come off easily and then you just have to whack it until it separates, I usually tie the spindle to something... like the upper A arm... so that it doesn't just flop over and rip the break hose.... This step should actually be done early on to relieve pressure from the spring.....
why tie the spindle? Just dont comletely remove the nut and it will stop the spindle from flopping all ove when it breaks loose
 

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why tie the spindle? Just dont comletely remove the nut and it will stop the spindle from flopping all ove when it breaks loose
Well... I am usually trying to get as much lift as I can .... which means the spring/strut assembly is as long as possible currently with adjustable 5100 struts and OMEHD and previously with OMEHD and a spacer.....so I tend to need as much space as I can get to fit everything in there.

For stock replacement might not matter.... but I figured can't hurt....
 

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Well... I am usually trying to get as much lift as I can .... which means the spring/strut assembly is as long as possible currently with adjustable 5100 struts and OMEHD and previously with OMEHD and a spacer.....so I tend to need as much space as I can get to fit everything in there.

For stock replacement might not matter.... but I figured can't hurt....

Good grief! what ride height? You start wrecking halfshafts if you go too high.

Also i was just talking about disassembly. If you leave the nut on th UCA ball joint bolt loosely when you pop the ball joint it will catch it for you.
 
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