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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone found a way to test the pedal motor with it still in the vehicle? I would like to see if it works, and it is not the switch.
 

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Yes, that motor.
I've never had a problem with mine, I just press the button and the pedals move.

I'm guessing that your switch for the adjustable pedals is not working?

If that's the case, I'd say there is a much stronger chance that the switch is bad - not the motor.

That being said, I don't know how your would test the motor by itself - and I don't know how difficult it is to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
On mine, I was able to take apart the switch, and clean the contacts. It sorta worked, and the pedals moved somewhat. The motor will make a noise like it is binding on something. To make sure the problem is not an out of phase issue between the brake and accelerator, I pulled the teleflex cable loose. No change, still acting like it is constipated-wants to go, but grunts.
 

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On mine, I was able to take apart the switch, and clean the contacts. It sorta worked, and the pedals moved somewhat. The motor will make a noise like it is binding on something. To make sure the problem is not an out of phase issue between the brake and accelerator, I pulled the teleflex cable loose. No change, still acting like it is constipated-wants to go, but grunts.
That may very well be a bad motor then from the sound of it.

That's a first though, I haven't heard of anyone having a problem with the adjustable pedal motor before.
 

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I agree, this is a first for me. We used ours all the time throughout the years and no issues. I haven't seen anyone else have this issue here or on that other forum. Let us know if you end up replacing the motor. Would be awesome to have a write-up for this should others begin to have the issue.
 

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I'm pretty sure there's something wrong with mine. The pedals only travel maybe 0.75" max before stopping. I assume the adjustment range would be more than that, and there's probably just an issue with the gearing mechanism, but it hasn't bothered me enough to dig into it. After the pedals stop moving, you can still see tension on the cable, like the motor is trying to move them but they're "stuck". I'd be interested to hear what johnc finds. It sounds like our issues are similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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Discussion Starter #10
I took another look at it. The motor connection has just 2 wires. I checked the voltage on these. The current was good- positive one way, and negative the other way.
I was able to remove the motor via 3 torx bolts holding the motor to a 90 degree small gear box (a thick steel rivet holds this gear box in place). Motor spun in one direction only, and hardly any torque. The motor has a worm gear powering a single gear on a jackscrrew. As the gear turns, the jackscrew is run in or out, and that positions the brake pedal. This gear is plastic, and it was cracked. The motor may have been mis-indexed and kept driving at one limit, cracking the gear, or burned up as it kept driving against a non-meshing cracked gear.
The system also adjusts the accelerator pedal through a teleflex cable on the other end of the the motor. Both these have to be synchronized in their drive range. There may be an input to the computer to brake the system if the two pedals get out of synch as well.
So it is possible to test the motor, but one has to be careful the gear on the pedal jackscrew stays where it was, and the gas pedal drive cable will have to be disconnected when you test the motor, or it will not match the brake pedal postion after the test.

In summary, had the gear not been cracked, I could probably matched the numbers off the motor with another chrysler/jeep product donor and it would have worked.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Turns out, there are possible connection points on the motor case on the end of the motor. These are small openings on the end adjacent to the power connection. I tested my recycle yard pedal assembly this way.
Of course, that assembly has the wire harness on it, so I have a possible connector anyway.
 

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My pedals didn't move properly and the probable cause I found reading around was a cracked plastic gear somewhere either at the main motor or at the gas pedal linkage.

I unlinked the gas pedal (which was fully down/far) and adjusted the brake normally using the switch. I needed to cycle the brake from top to bottom a couple times until it finally reached the farthest position, which is marked by a factory painted green line in the rectangular frame it runs on. Since I wanted both pedals at the bottom I left it there and hooked the gas pedal again. Now they are both at the same height.
I suspect the gas pedal gear might be broken, so I haven't tried adjusting them again, but if everything is right, they should be synchronized again now.
 

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My pedal motor assembly would move but not far at all maybe a 1/4" at most. There is a cable connection from the motor assembly to operate the gas pedal position. There is a plastic gear inside that is known to split. As the motor turns the cable the gas pedal device can jam on the broken gear and stop. To test the motor I would disconnect the cable from the gas pedal assembly. The cable is similar to an old fashion speedometer cable that has an internal spring type cable inside that spins. With the drive cable disconnected from the gas pedal you can test the motor for operation. If the motor runs freely in both directions you know that the gas pedal drive is broken and needs to be replaced. If the motor does not run it is the motor itself or the switch or wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
In your troubleshooting, did you get a voltage reading at the motor? I am getting around 8v. I think it should be a 12v?
The wiring used to drive a motor seems puny. Just like the heater blower motor connection, which led to arcing connecition points, and partial operation.
 
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