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Discussion Starter #1
I have the OME hd lift springs in already. I just purchased the Rough Country 2" spacer lift kit. My question is how much forward movement will there be with the rear axle? I have read on a Grand Cherokee site that at 4" lift, the forward movement must be countered with longer rear control arms. If they must be replaced, do both the upper and lower need to be replaced with longer arms or would just the lowers be enough? Any opinions or first hand experience would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
 

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You need a superlift if you want to go that much higher then ome. You cant stack the rc and ome springs without issues with nearly everything on the front end.

In the rear your fine. Adjustable track bar can help centering the axle left to right.

Superlift supplies a bracket and lca to fix pinion angle.
Here is a mosified superlift build where they went with adjustable rear lca...


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/omelets-build-thread-aka-bison-1309254/index118.html#/topics/1309254?page=176
 

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On the rear, the higher you go, the more you want to tip up the diff to meet the driveshaft straight on.... So it is the uppers that you want to lengthen..... Now if you notice the tire is sitting near the front of the wheelwell / or moving excessively forward under full flex - then lengthen both
 

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On the rear, the higher you go, the more you want to tip up the diff to meet the driveshaft straight on.... So it is the uppers that you want to lengthen..... Now if you notice the tire is sitting near the front of the wheelwell / or moving excessively forward under full flex - then lengthen both
Yup. I wasnt very clear on that. Superlift provides a bracket to relocate the uca iirc and that effectively lengthens the uca which fixes pinion angle. They also provide a longer lca

Both need to be replaced if you want to shift the axle rearward to center it properly in the wheelwell.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I am planning on purchasing the jba's to correct the front half. My driver's factory arm has a bushing blown out anyway. I actually spent time looking for someone who has rears available. The only place that does is Blue's friend Chris. He told me he actually has several sets in stock now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The tie rods need an adapter too aparently. Trying to find a cheap solution for that as well.
 

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Yes I am planning on purchasing the jba's to correct the front half. My driver's factory arm has a bushing blown out anyway. I actually spent time looking for someone who has rears available. The only place that does is Blue's friend Chris. He told me he actually has several sets in stock now.
Are you 2wd?

Otherwise If your gonna get custom links, halfshafts and jba ucas and everything else to make your rustys lift work with ome it would be cheaper to just buy a superlift... And not have some cobbled together mess.
 

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Are you 2wd?

Otherwise If your gonna get custom links, halfshafts and jba ucas and everything else to make your rustys lift work with ome it would be cheaper to just buy a superlift... And not have some cobbled together mess.
I used to have U joint problems on an older truck with the rear axle rotated toward the T case. After I saw this video:




I made the angles as close as possible and stopped blowing U joints
 

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Are you 2wd?

Otherwise If your gonna get custom links, halfshafts and jba ucas and everything else to make your rustys lift work with ome it would be cheaper to just buy a superlift... And not have some cobbled together mess.

I used to have U joint problems on an older truck with the rear axle rotated toward the T case. After I saw this video:



I made the angles as close as possible and stopped blowing U joints
Thats applicable for the rear and has to do with the rear links, Im talking about the front shafts too.

You can do a diff drop to alleviate the angles for the front halfshaft i assume but im not sure how much that would help.

It would really make more sense to sell off your ome and rc lifts and just buy a superlift and be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The lower control arms where the halfshafts mount do not move, but remain in their oem postions. The transfer case, front driveshaft, front differential and halfshafts remain in their original positions and don't require modification. Even my tie rods are close to original position currently. Not sure how much the front spacers will effect them.

The rear control arms will require replacement but they would with any 4 inch lift. The superlift would cost me $4000. So far I have $700 into the OME's and Rough Country lift kit. The rear arms wil cost me $700 and the jba's another $600. So all in it will come in at half the price if no other parts need replacement.
 

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The lower control arms where the halfshafts mount do not move, but remain in their oem postions. The transfer case, front driveshaft, front differential and halfshafts remain in their original positions and don't require modification. Even my tie rods are close to original position currently. Not sure how much the front spacers will effect them.

The rear control arms will require replacement but they would with any 4 inch lift. The superlift would cost me $4000. So far I have $700 into the OME's and Rough Country lift kit. The rear arms wil cost me $700 and the jba's another $600. So all in it will come in at half the price if no other parts need replacement.
How thick are your front spacers? I recently stacked a 7/8" on my OME front springs and ended up with reasonable angles. JBAs are absolutely necessary for this amount of lift though, and if you have any worn components up front, they'll make themselves apparent pretty quickly. I did inner and outer tie rod ends, lower ball joints, UCAs, and half shafts, but using stock replacements for all but the JBAs the angles are very reasonable.

I've also got an RC spacer stacked on OME rear springs and didn't change out my rear control arms. I had to trim the gas tank skid plate so that there was no contact, and I deleted the rear sway bar, but the axle only sits about an inch forward of center. That still leaves plenty of room for a 265/70R18 (which is equivalent in height to a 285/70R17), so if you want to save a little money, you can stick with your stock rear arms and still clear a 265 comfortably.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is a 2 inch lift kit. I ended up with an inch and a half from the OME's. I checked out the front end last summer when I did the springs.
Everything was good except the driver's upper control arm had a little movement.

After several trips offroad in the fall, it didn't hold up and appears to have been pounded out. I can hear a distinct clunk when I hit rough roads and it is visually at a greater angle than the passenger arm. I was anticipating changing to the JBA's anyways as I saw a few people talking about breaking the joint while offroading on stock arms.

I am not big on cutting corners. I had to replace the upper and lower front control arms on a 1999 Ram with a big lift. Cost was the same but the truck is now very solid and handles pretty much anything it needs to. The Commander was pretty impressive as it is. Both my brother's were surprised by how well it performed.
 
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