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Discussion Starter #1
The front passenger strut blew a couple weeks ago at 94 k. I'll be ordering the Bilsteins 5100 for the front and 4600 for the rear next week. . Bought the Rough Country lift years ago and will finally install that as well. Just waiting for the weather to warm up. I know me and the nephew will be rolling around on the concrete for awhile, not looking forward to this. I'll also go to jeep and get the lower bolts for the struts, just in case, this rigs been through 9 snowy, icy, salty winters. Looking forward to getting bigger tires, but not sure which ones. Probably something not aggressive, dont really 4 wheel where i'd need them.
 

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Concur with the PB Blaster ahead of time. It really does make a difference if you keep doing it twice a day for several days ahead of time. But, judging from some of the stories about that bolt, it might NOT be enough, regardless its worth the try.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've been, and will continue to saturate the bolts til the party starts. Im hoping that we don't damage anything thing else trying to remove them.
 

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Get 5100's for the rear as well. You need a longer rear shock for that lift.

In fact I would seriously consider going with 4600HD front and 5100 rear. 5100 struts in the front with RC lift would leave you nose high.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
oh...so the rc lift levels the ride, correct? i guess thats why the 5100's would leave the front higher since they give you close to an inch lift. Couldn't i use the 4600 front and rear then?
 

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oh...so the rc lift levels the ride, correct? i guess thats why the 5100's would leave the front higher since they give you close to an inch lift. Couldn't i use the 4600 front and rear then?
You need a longer rear shock. 4600 is stock length.
 

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You need a longer rear shock. 4600 is stock length.
The thing that limits the rebound of the rear suspension, is the shock. Raising it with a puck under the spring, just trades rebound for jounce.

Correct me if I'm wrong, the thing is, the 5100/4600 are the same thing for the rear, its just that the 5100 is longer. You raised the rear suspension, so the suspension needs to go lower to get the same wheel travel, so if you use the 4600, which will work, but you've decreased the suspension ability from stock, going with the 5100 you've increased the suspension ability.

If you're just doing it for looks and won't be doing any off roading serious enough to hit the limits of suspension travel, its likely NOT going to make a difference.

The front suspension is different, the same thing doesn't apply. Since the front 5100 has a adjustable spring perch that at its lowest setting is 3/4"-1" higher than stock, combined with the lift block will make the front higher than you would want, so you need to use the 4600 to avoid that.

Someone more familiar with Lifts would have to chime in, I'm NOT sure what limits the rebound of the front suspension, so a longer shock might NOT be any advantage for a lift in the front of the Commander. Regardless, the 5100 itself will increase the front lift and with a lift kit, it will now go from being rear high to front high and NOT level.

Like stated before the 5100 and 4600 are the same performance, so mixing them front/rear should NOT be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input gents. I'm in touch with the vendor and the dealership for the bolts are the spring isolator, just in case. Need some dry weather now...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Question about the strut/lower control arm bolt. If its siezed and wont free up, Why cant you just cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing with a sawzall, and punch out the bolt pieces and pry out the bushing?
 

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Question about the strut/lower control arm bolt. If its siezed and wont free up, Why cant you just cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing with a sawzall, and punch out the bolt pieces and pry out the bushing?
Well you could, and some people have. In fact some have gone so far as to replace the entire LCA.

I would simply leave the clevis in place and remove the shock from it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Im gonna try that IF the bolts dont come out. I know someone here said they were able to swing it under the uca to remove the shock. Im not trying to replace any more than i have to. I'll get back after its completed. thanks all.
 

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Im gonna try that IF the bolts dont come out. I know someone here said they were able to swing it under the uca to remove the shock. Im not trying to replace any more than i have to. I'll get back after its completed. thanks all.
Maybe you get lucky? Both of mine slipped right out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Im installed the front and rear shocks and struts this past Saturday in about 3 1/2 hrs with another journeyman AND an apprentice, my boy. I took my time and cleaned up everything taken apart, used antisieze on everything that went back together, and tightened to proper specs. What i didn't do was remove the lower clevis bolt. Definately was not budging. I ended up removing the upper clevis bolt, used a chisel to separate the clamp very slightly, and slid the strut up and out. Worked out perfectly. To install the new assembly, had to insert the top four bolts of the new struty up through the wheel well, and push and hold the bottom of shock level and plumb with the opening of the clevis bracket while the nephew used the floor jack to press the clevis into the shock til it bottomed out. Slid the bolt in, no problem and tightened. I could not have done it this way without the extra help...or you guts tips and pointers!! On the rears, i couldn't believe how light weight and worn the shocks were. They were gone. I was able to completely compress both shocks with very little effort.

Didn't have the time to wait for the back ordered Bilsteins so I ended up getting the Monroe Quickstruts up front and the Load levelers for the rear, without the spacer lift purchased years ago. Decided we'll put the lift on the boys 05-10 WK he'll be getting soon.

Im satisfied with the ride quality. Much better the ive ever felt. The tires are staying on the ground now! Its a tight solid ride. very pleased.
 

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Im installed the front and rear shocks and struts this past Saturday in about 3 1/2 hrs with another journeyman AND an apprentice, my boy. I took my time and cleaned up everything taken apart, used antisieze on everything that went back together, and tightened to proper specs. What i didn't do was remove the lower clevis bolt. Definately was not budging. I ended up removing the upper clevis bolt, used a chisel to separate the clamp very slightly, and slid the strut up and out. Worked out perfectly. To install the new assembly, had to insert the top four bolts of the new struty up through the wheel well, and push and hold the bottom of shock level and plumb with the opening of the clevis bracket while the nephew used the floor jack to press the clevis into the shock til it bottomed out. Slid the bolt in, no problem and tightened. I could not have done it this way without the extra help...or you guts tips and pointers!! On the rears, i couldn't believe how light weight and worn the shocks were. They were gone. I was able to completely compress both shocks with very little effort.

Didn't have the time to wait for the back ordered Bilsteins so I ended up getting the Monroe Quickstruts up front and the Load levelers for the rear, without the spacer lift purchased years ago. Decided we'll put the lift on the boys 05-10 WK he'll be getting soon.

Im satisfied with the ride quality. Much better the ive ever felt. The tires are staying on the ground now! Its a tight solid ride. very pleased.
Excellent! Excited to hear that it was a success :alfdance:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes it was. Glad its done. I was referring to the REAR shocks that were very light and how we were able to completely compress them.
 

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The compressed nitrogen in the strut/shocks is for preventing oil foaming in the valving and thus keep the shock performing well in difficult cycling. The amount of pressure varies from shock.

So a rear shock for a Commander that can be compressed by hand wouldn't concern/surprise me. What would concern/surprise me, if while compressing the shock by hand, it could be done quickly without an increase in force for more speed. As long as it resisted you a tremendous amount except for a slow compression, then I'd consider it normal.

Some people assume the gas pressure extending the strut is some sort of feature to increase spring rate, its NOT, that force from the compressed gas amounts to a drop in the ocean of the force from the springs and weight of the vehicle. Bigger Shocks/Struts in applications, like the front suspension, may need more gas pressure while others less. Its just there to keep pressure on the oil and reduce it foaming from cycling through the valves of the shock.
 
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