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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys!
I just replaced my front drivers side wheel hub assembly on my 2006 commander hemi with 228K on it. I used the same force to tighten the bolts which was required to loosen them up.
1> how tighten should my axel nut (36mm) be?
2> how tighten should the hub bolts (15mm 3 bolts to hold hub to knuckle)

the noise is more like a metal screeching after 15 to 20 mins of driving. I did re tighten the bolts what should I do??
 

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How did you know the front driver's side wheel hub/bearing was bad and NOT one of the other ones?

So the noise is the same as before changing the wheel bearing/hub?

I doubt your source of the noise is the bolts being loose.

Wheel bearings noise will be directly proportional to wheel speed, downshift and change engine rpm, if the noise changes faster than the speed of the vehicle, its NOT wheel bearings.

Usually wheel bearings make a roaring noise, or grinding noise, it sounds like normal road noise just 5 times louder; and it starts as soon as the wheels start turning, but grows louder the faster you go. I suppose its possible they could make a metal screeching 15 minutes after driving, after they heat up, but that is unusual.

If the noise is the same as before replacing the wheel bearing, I'd suspect the wheel bearing was never the source of the noise to begin with, I'd start looking elsewhere for the noise.
 

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Check your brake pads

I think you'll find it's your disc brakes. Either they have been reassembled wrong or the pads are worn and now after the dis-assembly and then re- assembly the disc brake pad wear indicator is rubbing on the disc rotor telling you you need to change the pads. This indicator is a piece of metal that rubs on the rotor making a horrible noise. That's what it's meant to do.

As mentioned below a sight variation in tension won't cause the problem but you should use a torque wrench and follow the specifications when doing any of these maintenance jobs. The Torque Specifications are easy to get hold of on this forum.
 

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PS: if you replace the wheel bearing hub on one side then you should also do the other. It's standard practice as the other side has done just as many miles and may give up soon.
 

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Wheel bearings? Not really necessary.
Suspension, yes, as in parts effecting performance, yes you should do the same for both sides.

i.e. shocks degrade with use, replace only one side and you'll have uneven handling and reaction that can make things worse than two degraded shocks. You can say the same, to lesser degree about bushings and end links, etc.

Wheel bearings really only effect performance if they are bad, and they have to be really bad. While multihull has a point, that if one wheel bearing went bad, the other side might NOT be that far behind it, and I would never argue with someone that replaced both wheel bearings. Honestly, you'd be just fine replacing the one bad bearing and wait until you get symptoms of the other one going bad before replacing it.

I agree with looking at the brakes, when I pulled mine to do the wheel bearing, I was shocked how all the grease had washed away, I made sure to regrease all the contact points before re-assembling. Worn out pads are more likely to cause the noise you describe, but the lack of grease can cause noise as well.
 
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