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Has anyone replaced the manifold studs on the right passenger side. I replaced them on the left driver side a little over a year now. I found a write up on jeepsunlimited.com with step by step instructions and tools needed. Job was successful. Can anyone help me on this issue..
 

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PB Blast everything as much as possible!

I have done the passenger side about a month ago and the driver side last weekend. I can assure you that the passenger side was alot easier for me at least. Even with 2 back bolts, thats right 2 bolts broken flush on the passenger side, I still found it easier.! I had 1 broken flush on the driver side at the front of the block. The driver side has a lot less space and could not access the bolts anywhere else except from the wheel well. The driver side also has all the power steering, front diff, fuse blocks, battery tray, etc in the way. I used a right angle drill and small extractor bits to remove them. The wheel liner removal is a must, so go buy our plastic rivet gun/rivets now.

PB Blast everything again!
Passenger side removal from memory - remove wheel/tire, fender well liner, a few lines or hoses removed from clips, remove airbox hosing/hose, move coolant reservoir out of way. First disconnect the manifold from the exhaust down pipe (forgot the size for the 2 bolts), you will need a few long extensions together for this. Then its just a matter of unbolting the heatshield/manifold from the block. I think the sizes needed were:shallow/deep sockets, and wrenches 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, swivels, various size extensions.

If you have any broken flush and PB Blast again, then....let the skills that can only be obtained from a "Higher Power" take over!:wink3:

I have the 5.7 so room is a little tighter. What engine do you have?
 

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When I did mine, I did not buy new bolts from the dealer. I got the thread size and went to my local bolt store (not ACE hardware). I was lucky to have an ARB authorized dealer at Copperstate in Phoenix at the time. I purchased better studs for use so I did not have to do that again.

There is a lot of pressure on those back bolts and they are notorious for breaking.

I have heard Mopar improved the bolts, so dealer purchased may be ok now since then.


Dave
 

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When I did mine, I did not buy new bolts from the dealer. I got the thread size and went to my local bolt store (not ACE hardware). I was lucky to have an ARB authorized dealer at Copperstate in Phoenix at the time. I purchased better studs for use so I did not have to do that again.

There is a lot of pressure on those back bolts and they are notorious for breaking.

I have heard Mopar improved the bolts, so dealer purchased may be ok now since then.


Dave
Did you mean ARP? ARP | The Official Web Site

Mind sharing the parts # that you used... Thanks
 

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link to the article?

Has anyone replaced the manifold studs on the right passenger side. I replaced them on the left driver side a little over a year now. I found a write up on jeepsunlimited.com with step by step instructions and tools needed. Job was successful. Can anyone help me on this issue..
Can you give the link to that write up?
 

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What fasteners did you use for fender liner? I am thinking of switching from the rivets to the push pin style. Oh, can the rivets be put on with a standard pop rivet gun?
 

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Pretty sure it requires a special one but as I recall, they are cheap. I used stainless fasteners from a bolt house here in the city. They were cheap, stronger that anything from the dealer and they don't rust.
 

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Stainless is prob' cheaper too

Pretty sure it requires a special one but as I recall, they are cheap. I used stainless fasteners from a bolt house here in the city. They were cheap, stronger that anything from the dealer and they don't rust.
Harbor Freight on the pulling tool.

Price for five plastic pop rivets was $5 for a sealed baggy, which seems to run up the price. At the same time, there was an "oops" bag of twenty rivets in white for 5 dollars. They must have been a spec. order nobody came back for. Since my Commander is white, it was an easy choice.
 

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When I did mine, I did not buy new bolts from the dealer. I got the thread size and went to my local bolt store (not ACE hardware). I was lucky to have an ARB authorized dealer at Copperstate in Phoenix at the time. I purchased better studs for use so I did not have to do that again.

There is a lot of pressure on those back bolts and they are notorious for breaking.

I have heard Mopar improved the bolts, so dealer purchased may be ok now since then.


Dave
The back port also has 2 openings. Any idea what that small one is for?
 

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Double check the exhaust manifold and make sure it is not warped. They can do that with broken bolts and leaking exhaust. That will cause future leaks.
 

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Stainless is prob' cheaper too


Harbor Freight on the pulling tool.

Price for five plastic pop rivets was $5 for a sealed baggy, which seems to run up the price. At the same time, there was an "oops" bag of twenty rivets in white for 5 dollars. They must have been a spec. order nobody came back for. Since my Commander is white, it was an easy choice.
Oops, left out something: I went to an auto paint supply store to get the rivets.
 

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Double check the exhaust manifold and make sure it is not warped. They can do that with broken bolts and leaking exhaust. That will cause future leaks.
You can get a manifold "trued" at a muffler shop if they have the grinding machinery. It took a few calls to find one. I think it ran 40 dollars for both of them. I figure once they warp, they have "seasoned", and not as likely to warp.
 
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