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Very easy, 20-30 min job, hope this helps.


REMOVAL

1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.
3. Drain small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with clean suction gun.
4. Remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts (2).
5. Compress the caliper and remove from the adaptor (4).
6. Secure caliper (1) to nearby suspension part with wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.




7. Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads (4) from the caliper adapter (2).
8. Remove the anti-rattle clips (3) from the brake caliper adapter (2).


INSTALL

1. Remove and clean all rust and debris from the anti-rattle clip mounting surfaces (3) on the brake caliper adapter (2).
2. Install new anti-rattle clips (3) into the caliper adapter (2).
3. Install the inboard and outboard brake pads (4) onto the caliper adapter (2).
4. Install caliper (5) on the caliper adapter (2).




5. Install the caliper slide pin bolts (2) and tighten to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).
6. Install wheel and tire assembly.
7. Remove support and lower vehicle.
8. Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and brake pads are seated and a firm brake pedal is obtained.
9. Fill brake fluid.
 

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:bigthumb: You got it, glad to help. :bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a question, and maybe more later...Where do you purchase the anti-rattle clips outline in section 2 under "Install" Can you purchase from an auto store or is this something the dealer provides?
 

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If you don't get them with the pads, (you should) you can re-use the ones you have now.
 

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I changed my brake pads last week, but I let the workshop do it for me as I have no experience for me, it was very very easy and straight forward, next time I will do it myself.

3. Drain small amount of fluid from master cylinder brake reservoir with clean
They didn't drain any fluid and it worked ok.

I have a question, and maybe more later...Where do you purchase the anti-rattle clips outline in section 2 under "Install" Can you purchase from an auto store or is this something the dealer provides?
I bought MOPAR V-line brakes and they don't come with clips.
 

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Thanks Romeo! I need to do mine as well. I am trying to see if I can get a place to do it myself. I have the tools, just nowhere to do the work except out on my busy street.
 

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I'm just curious as to how many miles you guys have on your Commanders that are needing new brake pads. I am approaching 25,000 miles and have only had the Commander just over a year. I checked my pads last week while changing my oil and they look practically brand new still with a lot of pad left.
 

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I'm at 52k on the front and are needed. The rear have already been replaced at around 40k.
 

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Thanks Romeo! I need to do mine as well. I am trying to see if I can get a place to do it myself. I have the tools, just nowhere to do the work except out on my busy street.
If you still need a place and will be close to White Plains, we can take care of your pads, we can do it at my place, maybe if you are going to CT?
 

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They didn't drain any fluid and it worked ok.
You are right, the reason that sometines you want to remove some of the fluid is because when you push the caliper back in, sometimes the break fluid overflows.
 

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If you still need a place and will be close to White Plains, we can take care of your pads, we can do it at my place, maybe if you are going to CT?
I won't be heading back to CT for another month. I was going to head that way this weekend, but that is canceled. Thanks anyways!
 

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should you replace the brake fluid taken out in the process with new fluid, or do you just pt back the fluid taken out during the process?
You could reuse it, but I would highly suggest using fresh fluid.
 

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This is great info and thanks. Could you tell me if any special tools are needed for this job and how difficult would replacing the rotors be as well? Thanks for your help.
 

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How many miles do you hace on your XK? You may not need to replace the rotors yet, but if you do, here you go


FRONT REMOVAL
NOTE: Front rotors and hub/bearings are matched mounted for minimum lateral runout. Before removing the rotor, mark the rotor and hub/bearing to maintain original orientation.


1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.




3. Remove the caliper adapter mounting bolts (3) and remove the caliper adapter from the steering knuckle.
4. Secure caliper anchor assembly to nearby suspension part with a wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.



5. Remove and discard the o-ring (2) securing the disc brake rotor (1) on the hub.
6. Remove the disc brake rotor from hub/bearing.





FRONT INSTALL

1. Install the rotor (1) on hub studs.




2. Install the caliper adapter (1) on the knuckle (2). Install adapter bolts (3) and tighten to 169 N·m (125 ft. lbs.).




NOTE: Caliper slide pins should be free from debris and lightly lubricated.


3. Install the caliper (1) to the caliper adapter (4) and tighten the bolts to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).
4. Gently lift one end of the slide pin boot to equalize air pressure, then release the boot and verify that the boot is fully covering the slide pin.
5. Install wheel and tire assembly.
6. Remove support and lower the vehicle.
7. Pump brake pedal to seat caliper pistons and brake pads. Do not move vehicle until firm brake pedal is obtained.



REAR REMOVAL

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the caliper slide bolts (4).




4. Remove caliper (1).
5. Secure caliper assembly (1) to nearby suspension part with wire. Do not allow brake hose to support caliper weight.



REAR INSTALL


1. Install rotor on axle studs.




2. Install the caliper assembly.
3. Install caliper slide bolts (4) and tighten to 44 N·m (32 ft. lbs.).




4. Install wheel and tire assembly.
5. Remove support and lower the vehicle.
6. Pump brake pedal until caliper pistons and brake shoes are seated.
 

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Romeo - I have 20,000 miles and do not even need to change the front pads yet but when I do will probably do the rotors as well. Can you advise if any special tools are needed for the brakes or rotors? Just do not want to get into a projects and then not be prepaired. Thanks for the info it really helps.
 

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I always take the opportunity when changing the front brakepads to change the brake fluid, is usually around 2 years anyhow. Over time the fluid absorbs moisture, and turns bad (brown) a good flush every 2 years will eliminate the spooge, keep the seals and valves and I imagine the ABS system working better. I havent tried it on the Commander yet, but will eventually.

I like performance friction brand pads usually. If they are not available, Bendix.

Oh, and as far as topping off brake fluid, definately use FRESH (as in new, just opened), and make sure you use the right type.
 
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