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Discussion Starter #1
My 3.7L (2010 Commander Sport) is Drive-By-Wire, meaning the throttle is moved by the PCM using a motor/solenoid. I'm NOT positive, but I think both V8's, 4.7L and HEMI, are the same.

Since it looks like its a pain to remove that airbox to check for myself, I'm asking anyone who has tried it.

Can you open the throttle body butterfly valve by hand with the AirBox off?

In the sense, I'd like to open it and scrub the backside of the butterfly as well as the whole opening. As well, I'd like to idle the motor and blip the throttle open as I spray the cleaner down the opening of the Throttle Body. Can I do this with the Drive-By-Wire Throttle Body, OR, does motor hold it still and I risk damaging something forcing the throttle open against the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
A couple of new things that come to mind, but judging from the lack of response, I don't think there are any answers out there.

Read the thread on 30k mile service, where the poor guy had a bad dealership rip him off on servicing. The dealership charged him $164 to service the throttle body? They charged him to use a "3k Maintenance Kit" and a "TB Service Kit"? Anyone have any ideas on these things, or what the dealer does when they so call service the throttle body??

Another that comes to mind, this is my first vehicle with a plastic intake manifold. I have seen what Throttle Body Cleaner can do to most other plastics, softens it and turns it goeey, and when it finally does harden again, it at least has made a mess of the surface if NOT more damage. Anyone know, or have experience with it, is Throttle Body Cleaner safe to use on Plastic Intake Manifolds?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did the spark plugs this afternoon, so while I had the Resonator box off, I decided to try to clean the Throttle Body.

BTW, this is really overkill maintenance, you really do NOT need to clean the throttle body, unless you get symptoms and more likely its worn ignition parts. Sure if its worth it to you to spend 20 minutes and $2 on a can of cleaner, it can't hurt to clean up the throttle body, as a preventative measure to keep it clean, BUT, I would NOT pay a mechanic or dealership a lot of money to do it, most likely it will never get dirty enough to cause any problems.

I have the 2010 Commander w/ 3.7L V6. This is drive by wire, and I can NOT open the butterfly by hand, I tried turning on the ignition and having my son hold down the accelerator pedal, that did NOT work either.

BUT, the drive-by-wire throttle body is actually simpler in terms of connections. 4 bolts and 1 electrical connector, 2 minutes and its off. BTW, the drive by wire TB has a plastic body, or maybe resin.

I did a test in an inconspicuous spot of the manifold and tb with Carb Cleaner, it did nothing to the surface or plastic. So I sprayed the back side of the tb and scrubbed it with a rag and tooth brush till clean. Rubbed a bit of engine oil on the gasket, (its reusable) and remounted it.

Run the motor and sprayed the rest of the carb cleaner down the tb to clean the inside of the manifold.

The Inlet Air Temp Sensor is mounted in the Resonator Box, you'll get a CEL if you run the motor with it disconnected. I removed the IAT, its twist and pull, and reconnected it, but I still got a CEL anyway, for the temp being too high; the IAT was laying over the motor and must have gotten warmer than usual. I cleared the DTC with my Scan Tool, but you can disconnect the battery for 20 minutes to clear the DTC's.
 

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In my case with 5.7L ,, I could rotate the butterfly by hand !

I'm not sure how effective to spray the throttle body cleaner to clean the manifold !! I don't think it would do anything as it will instantly evaporates !!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In my case with 5.7L ,, I could rotate the butterfly by hand !

I'm not sure how effective to spray the throttle body cleaner to clean the manifold !! I don't think it would do anything as it will instantly evaporates !!
Is your MY 5.7L drive-by-wire? A mechanical throttle, yes, you can rotate by hand and open the butterfly and clean the whole thing. If you forced the motor driven drive-by-wire throttle body open, I was worried about damage so I gave it a light press and when it wouldn't move, I abandoned that idea.

Yes, the cleaner would evaporate, thats why a drench as much as fast as possible without stalling out the motor. It cleans the opening of the intake manifold for other vehicles I've done this, can't tell for the rest of the manifold.

Eitherway, its arguable if it really does anything to help, a light coat of soot on the throttle body and intake manifold really does NOT effect performance. It is possible that the soot can build up enough to effect performance, and likely it would be engine idle it effects, but it would take a while and you could easily wait until you get symptoms and clean the throttle body then.

It appears the drive-by-wire sets engine idle the old fashioned way, it cracks the butterfly valve open. Most fuel injected, mechanical throttle bodies, linked directly to the gas pedal, seal the butterfly valve shut and use a seperate air circuit with a electro-mechanical valve to control idle. That smaller restricted air circuit is what is susceptible to clogging up somewhat with soot and effecting the idle. With drive by wire and NO seperate idle air circuit, I doubt you would ever get the throttle body dirty enough it would effec the idle. BUT, I'm guessing.

i.e. It can't hurt to clean the throttle body, don't expect it to get you anything. If your going to DIY, and spend 20 minutes and $2 on a can of cleaner, go for it, I don't think its worth the money to pay a mechanic or dealership to clean it, especially how a dealership may charge you $164 to do it. BTW, its NOT anywhere in the maintenance schedule to clean the throttle body.
 

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Is your MY 5.7L drive-by-wire? A mechanical throttle, yes, you can rotate by hand and open the butterfly and clean the whole thing. If you forced the motor driven drive-by-wire throttle body open, I was worried about damage so I gave it a light press and when it wouldn't move, I abandoned that idea.
Yes its drive-by-wire, and yes its not so light to rotate it but I have done it several times and no damage.
 

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Ok, please forgive me if my comment here is not relevant..but...
I rotated mine throttle body by hand once (I opened the throttle)
and the cruise control cable detached.

Took a couple months and a trip to the dealer (who was not able to
figure it out) to find the problem.
 

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Ok, please forgive me if my comment here is not relevant..but...
I rotated mine throttle body by hand once (I opened the throttle)
and the cruise control cable detached.

Took a couple months and a trip to the dealer (who was not able to
figure it out) to find the problem.
The problem should not be directly related to opening the throttle body by hand ,, I think it just happed by mistake while you are working around the throttle body
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, please forgive me if my comment here is not relevant..but...
I rotated mine throttle body by hand once (I opened the throttle)
and the cruise control cable detached.

Took a couple months and a trip to the dealer (who was not able to
figure it out) to find the problem.
You had a standard throttle body then, purely mechanical, controlled by cables between the gas pedal and/or the actuator for the cruise control.

The only risk to open that type of throttle body by hand, is what happened to you, the cables connected to it "could" come loose. BUT, you should see that and reconnect them as soon as it happened. It takes like a whole 10 sec to reconnect it.

If your dealer couldn't find that problem, they are incompetent, they obvously didn't follow the troubleshooting steps in the book.

Drive-by-wire is no link between the throttle body and the gas pedal. The gas pedal is just an indicator for the engine computer, the engine computer then opens and closes the throttle with an electro-mechanical actuator. No cables for cruise, the engine computer will handle cruise control and open and close the throttle just like it does for the gas pedal, same for idle control and shifting for automatic trans, etc. Just an electric cable running from the engine controller to the tb, to control the throttle open/close.

So, with drive-by-wire, the fear would be, if you open up the butterfly by hand, you would have to force the electro-mechanical actuator to move when its NOT suppose to move. That is the fear, you would break the device in the drive-by-wire tb that moves the butterfly valve. Like Ahmed said, he forced it open and it didn't create any problems for him.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Drive-by-Wire, Fly-by-Wire is in airplanes, but yea, its basically the same thing with all the controls instead of just the throttle.

If you look at the drive-by-wire throttle body, it probably needs cleaning far less than carbaruetors or mechanic fuel injection throttle bodies. The drive-by-wire is a simple big butterfly valve, that its; I don't see much chance that some soot building up can really change the airflow through that. Carbs/Mechanical TB have several different circuits for air/fuel, etc that are small and soot getting in them and starts to build up, it can create problems and disrupt flow. Cleaning the earlier stuff probably has some preventative benifits, but looking at the drive-by-wire tb, its so simple with no small circuits or passages, I don't think you can collect enough soot to effect it.

I can see an amateur that is NOT familiar with the throttle body, could disconnect the Cruise Control cable and NOT notice they did it, BUT a Dealerhsip can't find it?? I haven't seen the trouble shooting procedure for cruise control in the Commander, but ever troubleshooting procedure for cruise control I have ever seen, one of the first steps is too check the cable and make sure it is connected and NOT broken. Many Chrysler Dealerships are just horrible, they are dragging down the brands.
 

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I can see an amateur that is NOT familiar with the throttle body, could disconnect the Cruise Control cable and NOT notice they did it, BUT a Dealerhsip can't find it??
yeah, i did it, but didnt notice that the cable popped of. went to the dealer
ship and he couldnt find it. wanted to charge me diagnostic work. He commented on my CAI may interfere or my driving lights may do it.
(?????) He doesnt work on my jeep anymore.
 

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Mongo - sounds like you have the stock air box. Do you think that this should be done if you have a CAI? Maybe to clean possible residual oil from the filter or excess grime? I have thought many times to do this, but always wondered if it was worth the trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've got a cold air intake on my Neon R/T, I have never noticed any increase in residue from the CAI, it would be on the front on the butterfly NOT the rear. In my experience, and I often over oil my K&N air filter, the oil holds fast in the filter.

Usually the soot comes from the Exhaust Gas Recirculation, if you burning oil, running rich, bad pcv, basically the motor running dirty it can gunk up the inside of the manifold and the backside of the throttle body.

If your motor is running properly, you'll probably just build up some dry soot on the backside of the throttle body.

Drive-by-wire, its a simple big bore and big butterfly valve, I'm guessing that soot would have to build up something awful before it had any effect, probably you'd have to be up in the 100k miles.

The mechanical throttle body has some small passages and the idle air circuit, that as soot builds up can get in those passages and air circuit and start to have a real effect. But, the mechanical is easy to clean, open it by hand and spray in the cleaner, scrub it with a toothbrush and rag to get it clean. Run the motor and spray short shots into the idle air circuit opening (a steady stream will stall the motor out) and spray it down the opening, blipping the throttle to keep it from stalling out.
 

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Throttle control

I have a question. I have a 2008 commander and the throttle light comes on and starts to slow. Today I was on the highway and it did it. Before I take it to the dealer and get ripped off is there anything I can do to fix it myself. I once took it to him and he replaced the gas pedal and it was fine for 3 months
 
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