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Discussion Starter #1
Can the codes be cleared by unhooking the battery, and if so how long does it need to be unhooked?

Thanks Swanny :icon_confused:
 

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Thanks for the info.I have a new transfer case actuator that was working until recall 73 was done and the next time I tried it all I got was service 4wd, looking a other posts there were some that said the dealer did not clear the codes and thought that I might be able to do so.


Swanny
 

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Disconnecting the battery will clear any codes stored in volatile memory, it will NOT clear codes stored in non-volatile memory.

You typically need to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, I've seen it posted that folks that use the ignition key and try to start the vehicle while the battery is disconnected will drain the capacitors on the PCM and clear the volatile memory within a few minutes instead of having to wait 30 minutes.

Typically (meaning it might differ on the XK) the PCM (Engine Control Module) stores its fault codes in volatile memory and all the other major modules, and most if NOT all of the remaining minor modules, store their codes in non-volatile memory.

So disconnecting the battery "should" just clear fault codes for the engine.

Keep in mind, a good number of fault codes can be recognized by the PCM within seconds or a few minutes, and except for a very few remaining codes that takes days to test and reset the fault code, most of the rest will reset within a few hours. So if you have NOT corrected the problem that set the code in the first place, don't be surprised if it comes back within seconds of reconnecting the battery.

Also keep in mind, in most cases if the fault code was set by a fluke condition, and the controlling module does NOT see the problem again, it will also clear the code or at least turn off the warning light. So if you have a warning light, and it doesn't go out after a repair, in most cases that means the repair didn't fix the problem. There are only a few items that won't turn out the warning if the problem has been corrected properly. It will leave a fault code in memory, as reference for troubleshooting in the future, but if they controlling module sees the equipment operating properly for a while, it will turn out the warning light on the dash.

Yes, a scan tool can clear fault codes. Again, if you have NOT corrected the problem that set the code, expect the fault code to return within seconds to hours, a couple may take several days before its retested and sets the code.

Keep in mind, most inexpensive scan tools only do OBDII. That is the Gov Mandated Emissions self-tests and codes. That is just about all of the engine codes (since just about any engine problem will effect emissions) and a few major transmission codes. The rest of the fault codes, both reading and clearing, are proprietary and require a proprietary scan tool to read and clear them. These special proprietary scan tools are extraordinarily expensive, the cheapest and pretty crummy tool is at least $500 and for that price you only get one manufacturer's proprietary codes. The dealer tool, they charge $18k and you need to pay yearly fees to keep it.

So, if you have fault codes for transfer case, I'm pretty sure disconnecting the battery or using an inexpensive typical scan tool is NOT going to clear those. You'll have to take it to the Dealer or Big Independent Shop that can afford one of the expensive 3rd Party Tools to clear the codes.

If they forgot to clear the codes after completing a repair that is shoddy workmanship, but unfortunately, that's pretty common from a lot of Dealerships. You can't rule out they just forgot to clear the codes, BUT most likely they did clear the codes after completing the repair; they simply diagnosed it wrong and did the wrong repair, that is why the code came back again, because what ever is wrong they failed to fix it properly.

Either way, they failed to cleared the codes or they misdiagnosed the problem and did NOT fix it. I'd bring it back to them and complain. If they are going to charge more to try another repair, because they were wrong the first time, that is when I'd take it somewhere else, they clearly don't put in the time or just don't have the competence to get it right the first time.
 

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Thanks for the info.I have a new transfer case actuator that was working until recall 73 was done and the next time I tried it all I got was service 4wd, looking a other posts there were some that said the dealer did not clear the codes and thought that I might be able to do so.
The first Final Drive Controller (FDC) Flash Software Update was the one causing a lot of erroneous fault codes and disabling of the XFR Case shifting. The final software update was suppose to fix that.

So in many cases, people got the software update and it resulted in fault codes, warning light and disabling the XFR Case shifting. When they got the final software update, that fixed these problems and it went back to operating normally, if the system was in good shape and the codes from the previous software were really erroneous.

I thought the latest software update was P73? I could be wrong, but if that is correct, it sounds like you've had the opposite experience.

Its possible you shift motor went out again. If the seal fails, it will leak oil into the motor and cause it to fail, as well, dirt/grime/road salt/oil can get into the connector for the motor and cause it to short and disabling the shifting and setting the codes and warning lamp.
 

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I politely beg to differ Mongo. I've been in the auto service my entire adulthood and If you disconnect a battery it wont clear hard codes and will reset the monitors so if you clear the codes before a smog test it won't pass until it's been driven a certain amount of miles or distance. I was not inferring every scan tool sold today would clear codes. You are correct that it takes a decent one that you can buy for under 150.00 that will do it. It does not have to be a dealer level scanner to erase codes unless it's for one of the other modules than the engine. The original post said nothing about which codes he wanted to clear, that came after my reply.
 

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Codes will clear if the battery is disconnected and system is allowed to discharge completely. (may not clear stored codes) A good way to do this is to disconnect both battery cables and then touch the cables together - this will discharge all capacitors etc. The smog test equipment is designed and programmed to not accept inputs unless the car has been driven a certain amount of miles after the memory and codes have been cleared. (not sure how many miles) This is to prevent someone from tricking the system to allow a pass even though there is a problem by clearing the codes and testing before another code is set.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm sorry, I looked at as many of the prior posts that seemed to related to my problem and came up with the thought that the dealer didn't clear the codes and wondered if i could.
The whole story starts when we went to look at this 2010 Commander at a used car dealership, we took it for a test drive and put it in lo range, or tried. It said service 4wd, the salesman who was in the car with us knew nothing about it, but when we returned to the dealership his boss knew all about it and said that the parts had been ordered and would be ready in a few days and if we bought it then they would deliver it 150 miles. we bought a 4 year 48000 mile warranty and said ok, bring it. When it arrived I put it lo range and drove around our property to check it out it worked fine. paid for it and were happy.
It came with only 1 key, and so I took it to the Jeep Dealer to get another one, while in there the service writer said that there was a recall on the final drive and the recall was free, perfect,they made the key and did the recall and now once again I get a service 4wd light when trying to use lo range. I have a hoist and raised it up to see what appeared to be a new actuator, and wondered if they just didn't clear the codes and if I could do it myself.


Swanny
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I actually have Qudradrive2 not Qudratrac2 but they should know that by running the v.i.n. and or looking on the console by the shifter.

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The recall also applies to the Quadradrive II - the notice is a little misleading as I received a notice for my Commander with Quadradrive II direct from Chrysler to have the P73 done at the dealer.
 

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Disconnecting the battery will clear any codes stored in volatile memory, it will NOT clear codes stored in non-volatile memory.

You typically need to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, I've seen it posted that folks that use the ignition key and try to start the vehicle while the battery is disconnected will drain the capacitors on the PCM and clear the volatile memory within a few minutes instead of having to wait 30 minutes.

Typically (meaning it might differ on the XK) the PCM (Engine Control Module) stores its fault codes in volatile memory and all the other major modules, and most if NOT all of the remaining minor modules, store their codes in non-volatile memory.

So disconnecting the battery "should" just clear fault codes for the engine.

Keep in mind, a good number of fault codes can be recognized by the PCM within seconds or a few minutes, and except for a very few remaining codes that takes days to test and reset the fault code, most of the rest will reset within a few hours. So if you have NOT corrected the problem that set the code in the first place, don't be surprised if it comes back within seconds of reconnecting the battery.

Also keep in mind, in most cases if the fault code was set by a fluke condition, and the controlling module does NOT see the problem again, it will also clear the code or at least turn off the warning light. So if you have a warning light, and it doesn't go out after a repair, in most cases that means the repair didn't fix the problem. There are only a few items that won't turn out the warning if the problem has been corrected properly. It will leave a fault code in memory, as reference for troubleshooting in the future, but if they controlling module sees the equipment operating properly for a while, it will turn out the warning light on the dash.

Yes, a scan tool can clear fault codes. Again, if you have NOT corrected the problem that set the code, expect the fault code to return within seconds to hours, a couple may take several days before its retested and sets the code.

Keep in mind, most inexpensive scan tools only do OBDII. That is the Gov Mandated Emissions self-tests and codes. That is just about all of the engine codes (since just about any engine problem will effect emissions) and a few major transmission codes. The rest of the fault codes, both reading and clearing, are proprietary and require a proprietary scan tool to read and clear them. These special proprietary scan tools are extraordinarily expensive, the cheapest and pretty crummy tool is at least $500 and for that price you only get one manufacturer's proprietary codes. The dealer tool, they charge $18k and you need to pay yearly fees to keep it.

So, if you have fault codes for transfer case, I'm pretty sure disconnecting the battery or using an inexpensive typical scan tool is NOT going to clear those. You'll have to take it to the Dealer or Big Independent Shop that can afford one of the expensive 3rd Party Tools to clear the codes.

If they forgot to clear the codes after completing a repair that is shoddy workmanship, but unfortunately, that's pretty common from a lot of Dealerships. You can't rule out they just forgot to clear the codes, BUT most likely they did clear the codes after completing the repair; they simply diagnosed it wrong and did the wrong repair, that is why the code came back again, because what ever is wrong they failed to fix it properly.

Either way, they failed to cleared the codes or they misdiagnosed the problem and did NOT fix it. I'd bring it back to them and complain. If they are going to charge more to try another repair, because they were wrong the first time, that is when I'd take it somewhere else, they clearly don't put in the time or just don't have the competence to get it right the first time.

Check out the BlueDriver OBDII scan tool, it has the capabilities of clearing enhanced codes as well and can generate printable reports


Go to BlueDriver.net and check it out $99.00 on amazon or Ebay....
I have one that is better than my proscan OBDII scanner (which is for sale now, lolol)..




Svmccurdy
 
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