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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an '06 WK Overland with 75k miles, the OME MD lift and 285 BFG A/T's...
There's is a very annoying clunk that I'm trying to pinpoint. I had thought it was the drivers side inner tie rod after having a friend move the steering wheel back & forth and me feeling/hearing the clunk the most when having my hand on the inner tie rod boot. Yeaterday I installed brand new Moog inner AND outer tie rods on BOTH sides of the truck (might as well just do all of them) and it was to no avail...The clunk is still there!

What I'm getting exactly is a pretty good clunk/bang on abrupt bumps/potholes as well as a good shimmy and pulsing in my steering wheel during medium to heavy braking. When braking like that I can actually almost hear the pulsing as well.

Everything in the front end is original besides the obvious OME parts and inner & outer tie rods I just installed and all the front diff bushings I installed a few months ago.

I did also notice that my drivers side strut fork to LCA bushing seems a little worn and sagging in that the strut fork looks like its sitting lower in the bushing and is not centered in the bushing and actually seems to be about 1/8"-1/4" away from actually touching the LCA itself. This could be causing my clunk, but I don't think it would explain the shimmy and pulsing in the steering wheel

Anyone have any ideas?
 

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try your sway bar bushings
 

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I'm in the same boat, with identical, though less severe, symptoms. Sounds like a ball joint for sure somewhere; I notice the "pop" from the front drivers area whenever I accelerate from a standstill, loose feeling/sound over washboard terrain, and shimmy/pulse when braking. My wife notices none of this (starting to feel crazy). New sway bar bushings and OTRods, no change. Attempted to replace the rack/ITRods, but that's another story. Measured my rotors with a digital caliper the other day to see if they were warped, but showed true to 0.01mm! There is minor play in the rack if you oscillate the steering wheel with the engine off, but from what I understand that is normal, and is supported by there being no sound when the engine is running.
That leaves me only a few sources: inner tie rods (don't suspect), UCA ball joint, or LCA ball joint. How can I test these?
 

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Isn't possible that your setups developped a front spring looseness ? I too have the OME HD full kit since about a year now but with no problem at all. Upon first installation, I enlarged the access hole on top of the shock towers so they can be re-tightened without dissassembly...

OME installation notes talked about too little tighting of the main top spring bolt...

Might be usefull to check...


Dominik aka Walterkilo
 

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I'm having the same issue. Feel like the lift kit I put in this weekend has ruined my car. Have a definite sound coming from inner tie rods or steering rack now!
And cobrakillerta,

For the pop and bang sounds you need to isolate the left/right front suspension.
Remove the lower sway bar link bolts and tie the sway bar up so it won't bump anything....elastic cords work well for this.
Now road test and see if the sound is localized to the left or right, or gone altogether.
99% of these sounds come from the sway bar link bolts not being tightened enouph so if the sound is gone.......well, a bit more arm on reassembly, should do it.
I am assuming that each poster did have the vehicle re-aligned after install as these things will suspension steer all over the road till the toe and camber are re-established.

The pulsing on brake application can be the result of warpage, which is, believe it or not, unlikely, or a phenomina called 'transfer'.
Transfer is when you can see a almost perfect imprint of the pad on the rotor, like a negative photo.
It also can look like a stripe on the rotor.
This is a result of the pad, literally rusting to the rotor at some time in the past and, when the vehicle was put in gear, the pad broke free of the rotor surface.
Sometimes, this can be a result of a very long, high speed stop whereupon the pad material transfers to the rotor as well.
This is seen on autocross racing often.
The material, being the same hardness as the pad it was ripped off of, will not wear off through use.

If you can see transfer, remove the rotor and, using the toe of a file as a scraper, scrape the material that is adhered to the rotor off.
Then, flat file the rotor face a bit......scratches are ok, they will wear away in a day or two of normal driving.

One other cause of a pulsing pedal is when the rotor doesn't seat flat against the hub face.
Even the tiniest bit of rust at the rotor/hub interface will cause pulsation, so sand that area clean.

I don't need to discuss the need to have each lug nut at the prescribed torque, do I?

Try the sway bar diagnostic, then think about ball joints, tie rod ends, etcetera.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Lastnight I unbolted the sway bar end links and cranked down on the sway bar mount bushings. The drivers side mount wasn't quite as tight as the passenger side, but it was still not 'loose' by any means. Now they are both VERY tight. I also pushed pulled up/down on the inner tie rods & rack while laying under the truck and could not feel any play in the rack.

The pulsing that I'm getting cannot be felt in the brake pedal at all (that would obviously be rotors). The pulsing is mostly when braking harder and especially while doing so in a turn, it can be felt in the steering wheel & heard in the front end

Opening up the area aroun the strut but is a good idea but something I won't be able to try till this weekend.

I was only able to take a quick ride to the train on my way to work but I'll give it a good test on my way home to see if unbolting the sway bar endlinks made a difference at all.
 

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I dont have any pulsing during braking but I do get a clunk during braking. I've looked under the car while someone turns the wheel and I believe I need inners on both sides. I'm sure that the lift kit has the tie rods at a different angle, and that after 97k they are just worn out.
I'm going to do inners outers and swaybar links just in case. does anyone recommend any great quality products for a lifted application?

Thanks
 

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i also have a clunk when i hit bumps, holes, and what nots. i found something on ebay that i've never seen and was wondering if anyone else has seen it, or knows what it is... search "jeep xk lower front shock bar pin eliminator".
 

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I have a 06 Commander with only 27K miles, after I did the lift and new tires, I developed a clunk when I turn to the right and to the left. It turned out to be the tie rod ends, covered under warranty!!! I could not duplicate the clunk myself, only when driving at speeds over 10 mph and turning. Just a tip, hope it helps.
 

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Just fixed my Clunk that occured when you put it in gear and out of gear. It was the Differential Isolator on the driverside of the front diff. It was pretty much gone. Replaced it myself with the same part ordered from Quadratec for 16 dollars. Doesn't sound like your problem but since everyone is giving info on their different types of clunks i figured id chime in. Here's my thread about it: http://www.theultimatejeep.com/show...ing-pop-when-you-put-the-XK-in-Gear.-Fixed-it.
 

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Same clunk here. I have not been happy with my lift since I installed it. I have isolated my clunk to be from the ball joint on the upper control arm. Even with the tires on the ground, I can push the top of the tire and see movement in the joint. I do not get this on the passenger side.

I am going to replace them to see if that is the only thing making the clunk. My next step will be tie rod ends. One boot was torn during the lift install.

My lift also causes my traction control to kick in on turns on uneven ground, like turning into a parking lot.
 

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My lift also causes my traction control to kick in on turns on uneven ground, like turning into a parking lot.
Did you get an alignment after the lift ?
 

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Man how fast you driving to kick the computer on. I've only done it maybe twice. For feeling the vibration in the breaks you usually don't but do feel it in the wheel which is linked mechanically to the system the breaks are not there are rubber hoses and such that will not transfer feeling to the brak pedal. Once you lift your jeep it will expose and bring to light any weakness you already had it makes it worse and makes it seem like the lift caused it but that part was going to fail anyway. In my opinion :)
 

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When I installed my OME lift it was fine the first day. Then it started to clunk. Long story short. The top strut bolt was hitting the edge of the housing because the bump stop fell down a bit. The bump stop keeps the shock centered. The OME install also said to tighten the nut so 3 or 4 threads would show. I tighten them all the way and that helped.
 

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I'm having the same issue. Feel like the lift kit I put in this weekend has ruined my car. Have a definite sound coming from inner tie rods or steering rack now!
It's because the lift is putting the tier-rod at an angle and causing binding.
I had this very issue.
 
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