Jeep Commander Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Excuse me if this problem has appeared on here already, I have done some extensive searching but cant seem to find this same problem anywhere.

I have been experiencing intermittent issues with my 2008 Commander. This morning I had my air conditioner on and all of the sudden it shuts off, the blower and all just died.

I began to look at my dash and my compass just has "--" where the indicator would be and then my airbag light came on. I was trying to find a decent place to pull over and check things out when after about 30 seconds after everything quit, it all came back to life as if nothing had happend before.

I am thinking that its almost like a relay or a resistor getting hot but at the same time I am not sure how the blower, air bag, and compass could all be tied into the same problem.

If anyone has any help it would be greatly appreciated!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
Have you checked for any trouble codes that might indicate the problem?


Cleaning battery connections can't hurt either.


Do you have the metal key with a transponder chip or do you have the later RFID FOBIK key that is just a plastic block on the end of the fob? There has been a few posts about the ignition switch going bad and causing intermittent cut out of some of the electrical items. I don't think it was every the AC and blower fan though. I think its the more traditional ignition switch that works with the metal key. The RFID Fobik system, the ignition switch is just a radio and small switches to trigger an electronic module to turn on those circuits.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have the FOBIK key, actually its brand new since i recently got the recall taken care of for the ignition. I do believe they put in a whole new ignition cylinder. I would like to mention this issue happened intermittently before I had the recall work performed. I am not sure how to go about the trouble codes, is this something the dealer can do or can a place like AutoZone do it. I know there are some codes only the dealership can pull. The battery connections are solid as this was my first thought and I should have mentioned it in my original post. I guess it could be a potential ground issue but it just seems odd that every time it happens it only affects the 3 items (compass, blower, airbag).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
I have the FOBIK key, actually its brand new since i recently got the recall taken care of for the ignition. I do believe they put in a whole new ignition cylinder. I would like to mention this issue happened intermittently before I had the recall work performed. I am not sure how to go about the trouble codes, is this something the dealer can do or can a place like AutoZone do it. I know there are some codes only the dealership can pull. The battery connections are solid as this was my first thought and I should have mentioned it in my original post. I guess it could be a potential ground issue but it just seems odd that every time it happens it only affects the 3 items (compass, blower, airbag).
The FOBIK is a radio receiver/transmitter with three small low current switches. I suppose if those switches went bad, it could trigger the controlling module to turn things on/off.


Unlike older ignition switches that actually turned big heavy duty contacts to turn on the power.


But you said its only three things, not a lot of things, which a central source like the ignition switch would surely kill many things NOT just one.


Have you considered you have 3 separate problems? The compass going out might NOT be power at all, but instead a sensor problem.


You may have a blower motor going bad, or bad wiring to the blower motor. Usually, the resister that controls the speed has a thermal shutdown protection and dirty cabin filters or blocked air passages can trip that thermal shutdown.


The Airbag, the gov requires a six sigma statistical reliability in a system that sits for decades without use, just on standby. They have to develop ridiculously exacting self-tests to meet engineering standards for that statistical reliability. A bad clockspring, dirty or corroded connector can cause the light to AirBag warning light to come on for failing the self-test.


Reading Codes, search youtube for a video about the Chrysler Key Dance. Its turning the key on/off 3 times to end at "ON" without starting the motor, the trouble codes will read out in the EVIC. That will show you all the codes that the Autozone cheap scanner can read.


In the last 15 years, all the manufacturers have expanded on OBDII (which was mandated by the government), for all these extra features and equipment. But, since these are extended features that the Gov didn't mandate, or safety features that the gov didn't mandate easy reading of the trouble codes like OBDII, all the manufacturers do their best to keep the trouble codes from the owners to force them back into their dealerships and pay through the nose for service they could do themselves.


Trouble codes for the Air Bag are definitely proprietary, you'll need a far more expensive tool than Autozone has to find the code. The Dealer, a big independent shop or buying a $500+ tool is needed to find out the AirBag codes.


All the manufacturers do this, and they hope you'll just do what you're probably thinking, curse and swear and then just give up and go to the dealer and take out a loan to pay for them to fix it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
While I wont discount that I could potentially have three separate issues, I do find it a very small probability that all three items, will happen at the exact same time, and all functionality will return at the exact same time. If I were a gambling person, I would be willing to bet with almost 100% certainty that all three items are related, however I just cannot figure out how they are related.

I want to lean away from key/ignition as this was all just recently replaced, as well as new keys. As I mentioned earlier, I had this issue intermittently before the new keys and ignition.

There does not seem to be a rhyme or reason when these issues arise. I have had it happen on my way to work in the mornings as well as soon as when I start my car to leave work and anywhere in between. I dont really want to have to take it to the dealer to check out but if the issue persists to the point where functionality does not return I may end up having to.

I understand with these vehicles everything is run electronically and gone are the days when the only electric items were the radio, lights, and wipers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
While I wont discount that I could potentially have three separate issues, I do find it a very small probability that all three items, will happen at the exact same time, and all functionality will return at the exact same time. If I were a gambling person, I would be willing to bet with almost 100% certainty that all three items are related, however I just cannot figure out how they are related.
You did mention that before, I forgot, and yea, I'd have to agree that they seem related somehow, I just can't imagine how. That was why I suggested separate issues, forgetting you say you get them at the same time.
I want to lean away from key/ignition as this was all just recently replaced, as well as new keys. As I mentioned earlier, I had this issue intermittently before the new keys and ignition.

There does not seem to be a rhyme or reason when these issues arise. I have had it happen on my way to work in the mornings as well as soon as when I start my car to leave work and anywhere in between. I dont really want to have to take it to the dealer to check out but if the issue persists to the point where functionality does not return I may end up having to.

I understand with these vehicles everything is run electronically and gone are the days when the only electric items were the radio, lights, and wipers.
I really think you need to find the codes. Do the key dance and see if you get any codes. Unfortunately, there are even more codes for NON-Engine stuff that is kept by the manufacturer out of the hands of the owners, and you have to bring it to the dealer to have them read the codes.


As well, check the fuses, see if any are loose. I have had the IOD fuses pulled out and NOT properly re-inserted and it did give me an airbag light. I can't imagine how the IOD fuses would stop the blower or the compass.


Fuseable link? again I'd think you'd have more problems than those 3.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
294 Posts
Have you checked all of the ground connections and the body to ground and the engine block to ground and the ground input to the P.C.M.? as all electrical components must have some sort of connection to ground in order to send the correct voltage signal back to the P.C.M. weather it be 5 volts, 8 volts or 12 volts.


Swanny
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
637 Posts
You said you don't think it could be the Key switch as you had the recall done. On mine and not sure about yours they just replaced the mechanical parts and not the electrical switch part. It still may be your ignition switch. Cheap and easy to replace.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
I would suggest you look at the main connector on the ignition switch assembly as it may not be fully seated. I had a similar issue with a Dodge Ram 1500 with similar electrical issues and it turned out to be the connector not being fully seated. If you had the recall done the mechanic may have pulled the connector and not fully seated it when it was put back. I simply pulled the connector off and then plugged it back in and all the issues with my heater blower randomly stopping and compass and readout going out were resolved. These connector s can be a little difficult to get all the way plugged in.

Dan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Any suggestions on how to access this connector? Possibly a diagram or some general direction?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I am having the same intermittent problems with a 2006 Commander 3.7l. Another problem is the Park Assist stops working. This vehicle belongs to a friend of mine and has had it worked on at three different Chrysler dealerships and two other automotive technicians over the last eight years.

Ignition switch has been replaced under warranty. I have removed and reconnected the connector with a very positive snap.

Final drive module has been re-flashed.

No codes present, pending, or historical when checked with Vgate OBD scan tool.

There must be some common connection between these functions.

Anyone have an electrical schematic they would be willing to share?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I am having similar issue, yesterday I had no turn signal, no wipers, no compass, no lights, no rear air switch, no AC outlet switch. disconnected battery for reset and everything works again. Problem came back today, did another reset with disconnecting battery and again everything back to working. I am sure it will go out again tomorrow. About 2 months ago I had the ignition switch replaced under recall.......

did key dance for codes, no codes shown.

have appointment for dealer, but not for 2 weeks (soonest they could get me in) Hate going to dealer! any help would be great!
thanks
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,763 Posts
Sounds to me, like a short or ground somewhere in the electrical system to have this many things not working at the same time.

The fact that DennyCommand is doing battery resets - and that is temporarily solving the issues, has "Electrical short" written all over it, in my mind.

If it was something simple like blown fuses, a battery reset would not solve the problem.

Definitely sounds like an intermittent short somewhere.

I wish I could tell you where to start looking, but, the dealership is probably your best bet.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,763 Posts
I am having the same intermittent problems with a 2006 Commander 3.7l. Another problem is the Park Assist stops working. This vehicle belongs to a friend of mine and has had it worked on at three different Chrysler dealerships and two other automotive technicians over the last eight years.

Ignition switch has been replaced under warranty. I have removed and reconnected the connector with a very positive snap.

Final drive module has been re-flashed.

No codes present, pending, or historical when checked with Vgate OBD scan tool.

There must be some common connection between these functions.

Anyone have an electrical schematic they would be willing to share?
If your friend's park assist/back-up sensor stops working, it could very well be because it is bad and needs to be replaced.

Is the park assist sensor completely shutting down or is your friend getting some indication that has been disabled?

What color LED indicator lights is your friend seeing on the park assist sensor itself - if any, when this happens?

It's hard to give any recommendations when you leave out so many details in the description of the problem.

I had to have my park assist sensor replaced because it kept shorting out and disabling itself, but, I would receive an alert stating "park assist disabled" and I would have two or three Red LED's on the sensor itself, light up along with the normal amber ones. Also, instead of hearing the normal spaced series of audio tones when backing up, I would immediately get one continuous audio tone, just like the audio tone you get when you get really close to an object behind you while backing up, only I would get it as soon as I shifted into reverse, with nothing at all behind me.

Not that it's really relevant, but, here is a quick synopsis of the trials & tribulations I dealt with and what I had to replace when I bought my Commander - after actually finding out everything that was not working - or working intermittently, that I would classify as falling outside of normal maintenance:

1) Had to replace my radiator cap and battery within the first 6 weeks of ownership. The battery just completely died on me, without any warning or prior issues (while out in the woods no less). This may be classified as routine maintenance, but, it's certainly not something I would have expected to do within the first 6 weeks of buying a new "used" vehicle. The radiator cap wasn't sealing properly and would leak coolant when hot, I discovered this problem after about 3 weeks of ownership and finding very small puddles of coolant on the ground after being parked a couple of hours after driving. The coolant was almost clear, so, it took me a few days to figure out, that it was actually coolant I was looking at. I guess I still had in the recesses of my mind, that anti-freeze/coolant is green, LOL. What can I say, I'm old school.

2) After about 2 months of ownership, I had to replace the actuator motor on the Transfer case after getting the dreaded "service 4WD System" warning while trying to shift into 4-LOW which I was unable to do. That was about a $780 repair, when you add in the initial diagnostic trouble-shooting charge of $120.00. I found out after the fact, that my vehicle did not have the P73 recall (reprogramming the FDCM) done yet, which, as it turns out, was the fix for this issue. I submitted a claim for reimbursement to Chrysler and was paid in full within 2 weeks - there is a thread about this on this forum (I believe it is titled P73 recall) where I explained how to submit the claim for reimbursement to Chysler.

3) The radio display for the back-up camera video, would not display usable video from the back-up camera while backing up. This was an intermittent problem, when I first bought the Commander it worked fine, but within a couple of days, my radio display would no longer show usable back-up camera video, it would display it extremely dimly, so dim that the radio display almost looked completely black, as if it wasn't working at all. The radio display itself, for radio related functions, worked just fine. As time wore on, sometimes the display would display back-up camera video - and sometimes it would not - most of the time, it would not - and when it did decide to work properly where I could actually see usable video from the back-up camera, it would only be for very short periods of time. First, I replaced the back-up camera. This was the cheaper repair of the two repair options I had (replacing the radio was the other), and of course, it didn't solve the issue. Eventually I had to replace the entire radio - that solved the problem. A rebuilt/reconditioned radio from the dealership (which is all you can get now - they no longer sell them brand new) is still almost $1000.00 by itself - 900 and change as I recall.

4) Satellite radio did not work. Initially, I thought this was just because I didn't have an active subsciption that was paid for. However, after I called SiriusXM, gave them my radio information and enrolled and paid for service, I found out that the Satellite radio, in fact, was not working. I was still unable to acquire a satellite signal after numerous attempts. The Jeep dealership found after troubleshooting, that the cable running from the satellite radio, to the satellite radio antenna - which is routed up through the headliner to the satellite antenna on the roof - had a break in it. The Jeep dealership said that they found no evidence that anyone had ever removed, or tampered with the headliner before. So, explain to me how the hell that happened? I had to replace the satellite radio cable & satellite radio antenna, because you can not buy one component without the other. This was another $1000.00 repair job plus another $120.00 for the initial troubleshooting. Most of that was labor. The parts themselves, were fairly cheap.

5) Back-up sensor kept shorting out (symptoms previously described) and I had to replace the back-up sensor. This is the one problem that I know that happened after I bought the vehicle. I didn't experience any problems at all with the park assist/back-up sensor until I had it for about 6 months.

Once I had all these issues fixed to where everything was working properly, then I was finally able to focus on maintenance, and eventually upgrades.

Looking back on it, it was a long & expensive road to get to this point, but, I feel like it will be well worth it in the long run - I guess mainly because my Commander is bought and paid for and I have no plans on getting rid of it.

I think my experience is a prime example of what happens to an otherwise nice vehicle, when routine maintenance is neglected and/or the previous owner chooses to ignore things that don't work properly, as opposed to getting them fixed when the issue occurs. Or when you have a previous owner who just is not that observant.

The one thing I find odd is, that in my case, the previous owner was the original owner - which means she had a bumper to bumper lifetime warranty as I understand it - so, why not get this stuff fixed?

Maybe I was just lucky (sarcasm) and all of this stuff went to pot, right after I bought my Commnder - but I highly doubt it.

I believe most of these problems were preexisting when I bought her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Big Blue,
Thank you for your response. I agree that it appears to be an electrical short somewhere in the vehicle. The park assist works normally and have checked each of the four sensors when it is functioning. Yellow lights increasing to red and beeping increases depending on how close you are to an object. Then it just suddenly shuts off along with the hvac (front and rear), and compass shows dashes...all at the same time, no warning, just shuts off. Some times 20 minutes from a cold start, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes 2 minutes sitting at idle in the garage. I am sometimes able to reset it immediately by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and sometimes have to leave it disconnected for a couple hours, sometimes overnight. One time it started working on it's own while the owner was explaining to me everything that had been done to it. It also seems to be affected by ambient temperature. The warmer the temperature, it seems to take longer to reset.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top