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I am about to do my 2: RC lift with new UCAs.

I just noticed during pre-inspection that my oil pan is a flaky rusty mess - not leaking yet - but amazed that it isn't :-/

Anyhow, i read about what others have done to lift/support the engine + remove the intake manifold for clearance?

I'm thinking that the cross member should be removed instead since i'm disassembling my front suspension anyhow and will need a complete alignment.

I'm thinking this has toe be the easier alternative to all of the other lifting/supporting/removing crap.

Any thoughts on this to confirm what i'm thinking would help here.

I'm about to drop this of at my mechanic to get it done - - wanting to be really clear about how i direct their costly efforts.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I can't speak much in terms of the 3.7, but I felt the same way when I had to drop the pan on my 5.7.
FSM said the ONLY way was to remove the front diff/axle assembly and raise the engine 6 inches.
I THOUGHT I could outsmart the FSM and "make it work".....nope. Long story short, I now own a fender supported engine hoist and I am a master of dropping the front axle and the front suspension disassembly that is required to do so...

The main reason is a frame cross member that goes across under the engine. The same thing that the steering rack is bolted to. The pan gets wedged between that and the transmission and won't drop more than an inch or two.

Again....that was for the 5.7 engine. But if you're reading about other people still needing to lift the 3.7, there's probably no way around it....

Harbor Freight's engine hoist was only $70~ (fender supported, not the cherry-picker crane type) and actually works really well. They got a 25% off coupon right now for Easter Weekend.....FYI :D
 

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I can't speak much in terms of the 3.7, but I felt the same way when I had to drop the pan on my 5.7.
FSM said the ONLY way was to remove the front diff/axle assembly and raise the engine 6 inches.
I THOUGHT I could outsmart the FSM and "make it work".....nope. Long story short, I now own a fender supported engine hoist and I am a master of dropping the front axle and the front suspension disassembly that is required to do so...

The main reason is a frame cross member that goes across under the engine. The same thing that the steering rack is bolted to. The pan gets wedged between that and the transmission and won't drop more than an inch or two.

Again....that was for the 5.7 engine. But if you're reading about other people still needing to lift the 3.7, there's probably no way around it....

Harbor Freight's engine hoist was only $70~ (fender supported, not the cherry-picker crane type) and actually works really well. They got a 25% off coupon right now for Easter Weekend.....FYI :D


How tough is the front axle to drop? It may make pulling my 5.7 easier. I also may have to drop the oil pan to get the engine to rotate.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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How tough is the front axle to drop? It may make pulling my 5.7 easier. I also may have to drop the oil pan to get the engine to rotate.


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Kind of a PITA, but I was always working by myself on a creeper with the front end up on jack-stands.
The worst part is the upper mount bolt on the axle, right above the pinion shaft. you gotta get pretty creative with extensions and such. The front suspension to remove the CV axles can be a pain if you have a bunch of seized bolts...
If you have the FSM, really just follow the instructions.

Good thing is if you are already removing most of the front suspension for your lift, you've done part of the job already!

Basically:
--Remove front drive shaft. Easier if you remove the transfer-case end first, then with the front end off the ground you can spin the drive shaft to make getting to the pinion shaft bolts a little easier as there isn't much room. I usually had the transmission cross-brace already off for other things (tranny supported with a jack) and that gave you a little more room and less trying to find the perfect angle to get the shaft out.

--Remove CV axles. This can go one of two ways....but it's a little involved. You'll have to almost completely disassemble the front suspension on both sides- Pull the wheels, brake calipers, rotors, disconnect the steering tie rod and the sway bar. I think the manual says to disconnect the upper control arm from the steering knuckle, but I had better luck removing the lower but you have to get creative supporting everything. Watch for the ABS sensor wire- i just removed the sensor entirely to avoid any risk. Take off the main axle bolt and then slide the knuckle and wheel bearing combo off the CV axle. This might be easier said than done depending on the condition of the metals and possible seizing.
Do this on BOTH sides. From here I was able to cheat a little on the passenger side since the CV axle is longer. You have to pry or "knock" the CVs out of the axle housing. There's a spring "c" clip on the splines so it all just "snaps" in, basically. You can't PULL on it from the wheel hub end. Just get a good pry bar and find a purchase point near the axle housing or I used a dead-blow and a couple of good smacks on the pry bar as a punch of sorts and the CV pops out.
The CV goes through the lower Strut mount....on the driver's side you have to remove the bolt that holds the lower strut to the lower control arm to get enough clearance for the CV to slide all the way out of the axle housing.

--Once the CVs are clear from the housing, just support the axle (I used a lift right under the pumpkin) and remove the 3 mounting bolts. And it'll all drop out. Keep in mind the vent hose and the 2 wire connector if you've got the QD-II with the electronic limited slips.

I think the system I figured out for the 3 mount bolts was like this-
Remove the Passenger side upper bolt and LOOSEN the front mount (the 2 bolts that go into the frame). This will allow you to wiggle the axle around and give you a little bit more room for the pinion bolt. Dont let the axle drop too far or you'll just bind that bolt up. From here I got creative with a socket on the front end of the bolt (or nut) and had a long (like 2ft?) of extension paralleled how the driveshaft went to get to the rear half of the bolt. Pretty much the same path/angle to remove the pinion drive shaft bolts.

So yea....not fun, but not the worst thing....:wink3:
 

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Thanks so much, Wombler. I am wanting to do a spacer lift so I guess I'll get that ordered! As much work as this is going to be, I'm looking forward to learning how this Jeep fits together, or comes apart!
 

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Thanks so much, Wombler. I am wanting to do a spacer lift so I guess I'll get that ordered! As much work as this is going to be, I'm looking forward to learning how this Jeep fits together, or comes apart!

Awesome! let us know how it goes!
 
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