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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I had a leak in the radiator so I kept filling up the overflow tank until I had a chance to change the radiator. Well, the radiator must have been really low and there was still coolant in the recovery tank because my wife was driving it and broke down on the interstate. I told her to keep an eye on the temp gauge and if it ever starts going higher than normal, to turn the Jeep off. She made it off the interstate and it stalled out shortly later. She had it towed home.

I just finished replacing the radiator. I was lucky to find one since there is a nationwide back order. It still wont stay running. It sounds like crap, misfiring, etc. Im praying there is no major engine damage.

It was throwing codes P0300 - Random Misfire, P0117 - Engine Coolant Temp - Circuit Low Input, P2181 - Cooling System Performance, and U1402 from the transmission ECU. I came across a post with the same issue but I dont think I saw a resolution. I do have a coolant temp sensor arriving today but I dont know why that would cause misfiring.

In the meantime Ive got my hub assemblies, axles and ball joints removed from my Grand Cherokee. I have no transportation and its wearing on me. :(

Thanks

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This was the post I was referring to: Red Lightning Bolt Light and P2181 Code

This reply from Mongo sounds promising:

The Drive-By-Wire (Electronic Throttle Control) Fault Warning Light:
I forgot to mention that earlier, I have gotten it when I also had a temp sensor malfunction giving me the P2181. Seems if the engine is colder than normal and you stab the throttle or floor it, when the motor is extremely cold it will induce that warning light. It also will put the Drive-By-Wire into a safety mode where you get limited throttle response and power. Usually just turning off the ignition and restarting clears the problem. Once I replaced my temp sensor (cause there was no other problem with my cooling system) I stopped having this occur.
 

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make sure you fill it from the small allen keyed neck on top of the motor, not the radiator, run it for a bit with that open and keep filling it there. that should get rid of air bubbles. then i would disconnect the battery for 30 min and let the PCM reset it self. hoping these low buck things fix it. if you replace a sensor, get the mopar unit. too many of the cheap ones failing and making us think its something else.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update: Over the weekend I finished putting everything back together, installed a new Mopar coolant sensor, cleaned some of the other sensors but when I try to start it it tries to start but misfires, makes popping noises and konks out. I had my wife try while I was under the hood and a small explosion occurred in the area of the EGR valve. Almost like lighting a gas grill but waiting too long to ignite it. From what Ive read, that can happen because its dumping exhaust gas back into the engine and must have ignited. So I have an EGR valve (Mopar) on order. Why would overheating cause an EGR valve to go?
 

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Update: Over the weekend I finished putting everything back together, installed a new Mopar coolant sensor, cleaned some of the other sensors but when I try to start it it tries to start but misfires, makes popping noises and konks out. I had my wife try while I was under the hood and a small explosion occurred in the area of the EGR valve. Almost like lighting a gas grill but waiting too long to ignite it. From what Ive read, that can happen because its dumping exhaust gas back into the engine and must have ignited. So I have an EGR valve (Mopar) on order. Why would overheating cause an EGR valve to go?
Extreme heat can negatively affect a variety of components;

Tough to say why the EGR valve went, that could have just been your weak link & the extreme heat from over-heating just put it out of it's misery;

Over-heating is never a good thing and it always seems to take something out when it happens.

By the way - why would you stomp on the gas when your engine is cold??

That's never a good idea, especially on an older vehicle like a Commander.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Extreme heat can negatively affect a variety of components;

Tough to say why the EGR valve went, that could have just been your weak link & the extreme heat from over-heating just put it out of it's misery;

Over-heating is never a good thing and it always seems to take something out when it happens.
Im not completely sure its the EGR valve. After watching some videos I have some more ideas to check such as the ASD relay. I believe It's definitely related to the throttle control. I can smell fuel when it tries to start. It will start making popping noises and then I saw a small blast of fire in the area of the EGR & PCV valves.

My wife was driving it and I insisted that if the temperature ever started rising past the half way mark to shut it off. She was on the interstate and needed to get to a safe location but she said the temperature gauge didnt get to high.

I dont have any codes since Ive had the battery disconnected while I was working on it.

Im charging up the battery today while Im at work but Im at wits end. Been walking to work since both Jeeps are out of commission. :confused:
 

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there are a lot of vacuum/egr etc hoses back in the corner of the engine... wonder if something popped off back there and is laying behind the head where you cant see it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
there are a lot of vacuum/egr etc hoses back in the corner of the engine... wonder if something popped off back there and is laying behind the head where you cant see it...
I'll try to take a look. I cant do it with the engine running but I hope it's something simple like that. I really dont want to try to replace the EGR valve.
 

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its a knuckle scraper for sure! but not impossible.

if you feel daring, maybe spray a little starting fluid back there while your wife is cranking.. i hope you arent too attached to your eyebrows tho!
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, the battery is all charged up. Tried cranking it, same thing it just cranks faster. Its showing code P2172 which relates to the airflow and throttle body. One of causes can be MAP sensor. I did inspect it while I was installing the new coolant temp sensor and it seemed to have some coolant on it. I did clean it but its probably no good, Im going to try changing that out before messing around with the EGR valve. Other possibilities off the top of my head are a vacuum leak or stuck throttle body.
 

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Okay, the battery is all charged up. Tried cranking it, same thing it just cranks faster. Its showing code P2172 which relates to the airflow and throttle body. One of causes can be MAP sensor. I did inspect it while I was installing the new coolant temp sensor and it seemed to have some coolant on it. I did clean it but its probably no good, Im going to try changing that out before messing around with the EGR valve. Other possibilities off the top of my head are a vacuum leak or stuck throttle body.
Other possibilities;

Bad starter;

Corrosion on the yellow wire that connects to the starter;

Bad alternator;
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I give up. Replace the MAP sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. Hasnt changed a thing. Is it possible to post a video because its hard to describe what's going on?
 

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I give up. Replace the MAP sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. Hasnt changed a thing. Is it possible to post a video because its hard to describe what's going on?
It is, just copy & paste the URL;

Did you ever get the alternator & starter checked out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Sorry, I didnt see that part. I did not. To me it seems more fuel or vacuum related. What makes you think it could be the alternator? When the yellow wire on the starter gives me a problem, it doesnt even try to start.
 

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Sorry, I didnt see that part. I did not. To me it seems more fuel or vacuum related. What makes you think it could be the alternator? When the yellow wire on the starter gives me a problem, it doesnt even try to start.
@msnowdon

I've known people in the past, that couldn't get their engines to turnover (cranked but wouldn't start) & wound up having a bad alternator as the cause.

It's simple enough to get checked out & places like Advanced Auto & Auto Zone would probably do it for free.
 
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